johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Does that mean the pistons dont smack down on the bridges Iain?
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Not sure why Andy thinks the pump he has like this needs a spacer or whether he needs the two screwed connections?
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Yup genuine Denso will have ND stamped in the end cover....
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Think the later spacer type doesnt have screwed connections ..
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Yes I actually prefer the nylock type as with the older type youre supposed to retorque a used bearing back to original new torque which doesnt seem right...
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Sounds like the correct one with both screwed olive connections and no spacer needed but have you got a herald engine fitted?
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Yes 40a unit as used on kubota diggers, Diahatsu and micro cars, 2.8kg....
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Sounds pretty good to me. I would use the layshaft again but turn it upside down so the load (gears push apart) is on the opposite side to the existing wear.
Synchro rings are bigger than gt6/vitesse as is the mainshaft tip...
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1 hour ago, DanMi said:
you really want them carb side of the white heat stopping block so they don't get heated by the manifold
I think the shield heating comes from the exhaust manifold so inside the block stops this being transferred to the carbs🤔
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10 hours ago, jdaley said:
Ok gentle4men, now you have all listed what went wrong and how you solved it, what should a newcomer in Australia purchase to change from the dynamo to an alternator.
\ I see you have used all sorts of alternators as well/
Is there a cleqr path for me please?
Dont fancy a little lightweight 40amp Denso alternator then? Seems an easy change and the genuine ones have a good reputation for reliability...
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Thing is, how do you know as theyre non standard items😳
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Probably going to be sliding joint in the cabin or possibly the clamp onto the rack in the engine bay...
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Strange as my vitesse OD mounting plate is a different design and seems to have reinforcing in that area🤔
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I wonder if its to do with the torque twist of the engine/gearbox and its certainly not very nice. Could almost be welded in situ couldnt it?
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12 hours ago, Alan J said:
Should I stick with recommended plug gap of 0.025" using this electronic ignition? It has been suggested the gap should be opened up a little.
Thanks for your input.
Alan
If youre using a standard coil I would stick with usual plug gap...
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Yes I fitted something like Petes except they had long operators which you cut down to the size you want. The other type have to be fed in from the inside and then its difficult to hold the inner nut...
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If it was an exhaust valve it may have been burnt. However what happened to the other readings, did they come up to the desired 120psi+?
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Well it is nice to get jobs done and know that youve got new components but against that you have to weigh up the quality of the replacements....
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I have had an issue with a carb top which everytime I tightened it down it jammed the air piston while it was ok if the screws were left slightly loose. I thought the top must be distorted but in the end I re-centred the jet and the problem was resolved...
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On 22/04/2024 at 17:31, Gary Flinn said:
Hi Jonny
Yes, I presume you mean the Damson car?
I've been in touch with the owner via messenger who I have had correspondence with in the past on the Vitesse Facebook group, I will call him tonight to discuss.
The asking price is out my remit though so unless there's some movement I won't be viewing it.
Regards
Gary
It doesnt look like it was a factory fitted overdrive model and this will show in its commission number. Have to check if its been fitted with the correct boot badge and operating switch which arent apparent in the photos. Door gaps still dont look perfect - thats being picky but really I think youre looking for perfection and any less gives leverage on the price...
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oooh watch out, they can look bad but still do the job perfectly and may well outlast the new repro ones you buy! Try levering the engine to see how they perform...
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2 hours ago, owensparrow said:
Here’s the part I’m worried about.
incidentally, when I refitted the overdrive to the gearbox, I followed Haynes instructions to just push the two together, they clunked together nicely after a bit of wriggling, I didn’t synchronise anything, was that bad?Yes as said it is entirely possible for them to go back together with no other actions necessary (cam in right place and splines already synchronised) so maybe you were just lucky.
Also as Pete says the steel spacer looks like part number 8 which would fall off the end of the reverse spindle very easily. Its important as it prevents the reverse idler gear from going too far backwards and clashing with the 1st gear cog. However I cant see why this would prevent your OD from working so the next step would be to verify the operation of its solenoid...
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1 hour ago, John L said:
Jonny, yes starting from cold using some choke is okay and the engine will warm up normally.
But when the engine is hot the engine will either start momentarily and then cut out or will not start at-all so I have to resort to Easy Start.
Thanks for your advice re a compression test.
Pete, also noted re running rich.
Will carry out some more investigation.
Thanks
John
If it needs Easy Start I wouldnt have thought its too rich but just the opposite🤔 One controversial thing that some owners suspect is vapour lock in the fuel system where the pump or lines have got hot enough (35º and upwards) while stopped to allow boiling.
Must admit I cheat on my Vitesse and run the electric fan for 30 seconds after stopping (too much and needs choke to restart!) which makes for much easier hot restarts...
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One of the root causes can be compression which if low becomes worse when the engines hot then obviously the hotter the engine runs the worse the problem. Worth doing a compression test to discount this....
Rear diff oil seal.
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Think nylocs lose their lock on reuse but this is a big one to replace so lock tight would give extra security?