johny
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Posts posted by johny
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3 minutes ago, Works Spitfires said:
Or those gloopy snake oil concoctions you used to be able to buy from Halfrauds, and the like which promised to silence the worst mechanical malady's.
Yes didnt they actually put metal back on the gear teeth to bring them back to the original profileđ
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I do think somethings has happened to rubber in general and I dont know if its for cost, environmental or health reasons. Or maybe just everything was better in the old daysđ
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I know the actual gear angles changed on some (to reduce noise?đ) but they definitely cant be mixed...
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Yes bit of a nightmare now isnt it - with no new gears being available mixing used parts is the only option left...
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As its just one gear think its unlikely to be a bearing so could be gears. Its possible that third gear has been changed as part of the recon so its teeth no longer match those of the laygear. Now whether they can 'bed in' and how long that would take is very difficult to say but I think its worth doing the miles the supplier suggests (as quickly as possible) to see if there is any improvement...Â
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Great, let us know how you get on...
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Correct unless as Nigel suggested you change over the complete gear selector assembly - after all the internals of both gearbox types are essentially the same but it might complicate matters a bit...
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Yes the bulb holders pull out of the back of the speedo and you also have to undo the drive cable. There might also be a trip meter reset cable and voltage regulator to disconnect plus earth wires on the fixing studs. Take a photo where everything is if you can...Â
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Yes a single rail OD box will be 4 inches longer than a 3 rail non OD so a Spitfire 1500 non OD 37 inch prop should be the right one...
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Single rail and 3 rail levers are not interchangeable. In both cases the OD version has a hole drilled length ways from the end with an exit hole a short distance down so the wiring can get to the knob switch. In all other respects OD and non OD are the same so if you want a remote switch the latter will work and is easier/cheaper to source like this 1500 Spitfire one on ebay...
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However if as Pete said earlier the bezel is really well stuck then yes the tabs have to prised back but very carefully as they can break off...
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erm no prising bezels, it rotates (if not well stuck on) until its tabs (these made need loosening a little) disengage with the main case and it lifts off. Then its the reverse to put back on. All shown in the videosđ
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Needs to be a light oil and any Wd 40 type spray will do although as I say you dont want to get it everywhere so possibly spray some into a cap and then run it into the bearings on a thin screwdriver?
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Plenty of good videos online of dismantling Smiths instrumentsđ
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The complete unit has to come out from the front of the dash once the rear clamps are undone and wiring/cable disconnected. Then the bezel and glass removed so that when the retaining screws in the back of the case are undone the internals including dial etc just lift out. Thats it though and there shouldnt be any more dismantling necessary...
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Unfortunately unless theyve been replaced the rubber seals around the glass will almost certainly be in a bad state and need replacing. In fact they can have gone so sticky that the bezel/glass becomes difficult to remove! There are kits available on ebay and elsewhere with the different seals..
Access to the internals is pretty easy once the speedo is disassembled so have a good look at all the springs and components to make sure theyre ok. Dont get oil on the face and treat that very gently as by now its paint can flake offâšī¸Â
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not one of these is it?
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Its a hell of a lot of wear and I wonder if a PO drove with his hand pushing on the gearlever all the time, either that or drove backwards a lotđ
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Yes that sounds right. I dont know if keys are still available but I think I can see the necessary number stamped on the square shaft in the first pic...
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Oh it could be an off centre pin you have to knock out. You can just see it in this pic to the bottom left of the square hole halfway along the assembly...
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You need to get the handle to this stage and then I think theres a spring loaded latch that holds the barrel in place...
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Interesting, what washer did you use?
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I believe the valves are in the upper body so these need to be checked in any replacement....Â
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Which method did you use to unscrew the trunnion? Theres another thread on here about stub axle changing that might be of interest...
Whiny third!
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
I bought one that you squeezed in through sparkplug holes to reseal pistons in worn bores - no need for reboresđ