johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Ive always thought it strange having softer front when thats where the most weight is😵
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Let us know how you get on👍
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No, cant see that would do it but might be an indicator to the general state of the brakes so Im sure there will be more findings....
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14 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Hi Johny, thanks for your thoughts that this master cylinder looks like a GMC150 from an MGB.
I was just wondering, if I do change the cylinder and go back to the original GMC224, would the push rod from the pedal be the same?
Just noticed that the replacement ones say the push rod is not supplied and must re-use the old one, which is OK if it's the same but obviously a problem if it's not.
Think theres a good chance the push rods are the same but cant guarantee it.
That MC looks pretty new but it could be faulty: if theres no fluid leaking under the rubber gaiter then the only other possible problem is that the feed from the reservoir isnt closing off properly when you press the pedal. You can check this by seeing if the level in the reservoir increases slightly as the pedal goes to the floor. If you dont find either of these issues then, as stated previously, the problem must lie elsewhere....
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Looks like a GMC150 master cylinder for MGB. These are 3/4" bore so bigger than the 5/8" GMC224 that was probably originally fitted. As said this will make the pedal harder but require more pedal pressure especially if you dont have a servo. Also the type of brake pads used on our cars seems to have quite an effect on brake performance....
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Colin, I would expect a collapsed hose to cause a brake to lock on and the pedal to become even firmer as the fluid that doesnt come back is made up for by fresh from the reservoir....
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Ive done it using a square block of metal held tight against the shaft and tapped with a hammer. The block can be moved around the shaft but with its face always held square to it so giving even impacts all the way round the gear on its metal insert...
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They do seem to be variable in tightness of fit and theres really no need for it as the torque they transmit is very low! However the plastic gear is on a metal sleeve and its that that must be used to force it into place. Ideally you need a long steel tube just slightly bigger than the mainshaft as theres no way you can bash the gear itself...
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1 hour ago, trigolf said:
Hi Johnny. I just dug out the replacement CD150 filters that I bought for my Vit more than a year ago. Funnily enough, I bought them from MEV Spares too. Like yours they have no spacer tubes! I ended up cutting up my old Fram filters and gluing them in to the new ones. I think that the vast majority of classic car owners have them as second cars now and so would be prepared to pay slightly more for a quality replacement. So I don't think the old argument from suppliers -about how much owners are willing to pay stacks up now..😕
Gav
Actually in this case I think its been a mistake but the lack of response from them makes it even worse. I see theyre out of stock now so perhaps they realise theres been a fack up!
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Not old? Must be best part of 40 years old! Possibly could use the cone on other flow meters I suppose...
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The Gunson comes ready made with a cone that seals with the lightest touch😜
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wow you must have had a fright, or two! The first time seems almost certainly to have been a problem with the MC end seal not closing properly so the fluid went back into the reservoir rather than operating the slaves which would explain the high level.
However why it happened with the new MC is more mysterious. If you can get it to repeat (best when not driving) check its reservoir level again. The problem is that on releasing the pedal the MC piston usually returns to its normal position so drawing the excess fluid back and returning the level to normal...
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hey for 40 years my Gunson has served me very well - I cant see you need anything more unless youre running a business!
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2 hours ago, Badwolf said:
Sparkrite SX4000 - I have had quite a collection of them 4 in total (I think), all faulty. For a look inside one ......
I have been running on a Sparkrite SX1000 for many years until I started getting a misfire and switched back to conventional. I wish that I had the knowledge to repair it. It's probably old school electronics with valves and stuff inside but beyond me. I am looking for a working unit on fleabay but generally they only come up as sold as seen or for repair. That's why I was looking at the SX4000 but not impressed with them.
oh well bang goes my theory! Have you mentioned it to them?
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3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
So why is there an Aldon Ignitor for the ballasted system and another for the non-ballasted system?
Doug
Not sure with Aldon but as I say Powerspark/Accuspark must have a 12v power supply...
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I think the power supply, certainly for the Accuspark/Powerspark units, must be taken direct from 12v and not the ballasted supply. Might be a common mistake because in a non ballasted system you just connect the red wire to the +ve side of the coil....
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yes as Paul has suffered so many failures with those units thought he might appreciate the switch on the SX4000 that allows the points to work on their own in case electronics die on him again☺️
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I believe the two types you have tried so far are mounted inside the dizzy and this design is probably more prone to failure because of their smaller size and exposure to heat/vibration. Therefore you might be best going for something like the Sparkrite SX4000 that uses your original points but only to trigger the electronics in a remotely mounted box. Maybe someone has some experience with these....
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They are about the figures for GT6/Vitesse and your gearbox is very similar if not stronger than the gearbox used in those however the ratios are different and you could find your 1st gear is now redundant. Also your clutch is quite a bit smaller so that might be the first thing to give especially if you start pulling away in second😵
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Nice bit of kit but dont think you'll get authorisation for that expediture😂 I needed a recore so went the cheapest route and fitted 50quids worth of Ebay Honda Civic ally rad and have been very pleased. Its not the prettiest installation and is obviously not original but certainly does the job...
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of course, at the risk of being controversial, I suggest you could go aluminium and have the benefit of more fins, better thermal connection between fins and tubes, and thinner walled tubes for improved heat transfer plus save some weight....
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Hi Iain, one thing thats quite noticeable from your pics is the rad fin spacing. Although it looks like you have the modern tube spacing (1 per cm?) the fins seem to be few in number compared with some designs available. If youre cooling is still insufficient after fitting the fan an increase in cooling surface by having more fins per inch will obviously make quite a difference...
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sounds to me like the master cylinder played up. The seal that blocks off the return to the reservoir can fail to seal properly so instead of pressuring the circuit fluid just gets pushed into the reservoir with a corresponding slight rise in its level. The second press can improve the sealing so that then the brakes work ok.
I think it could have been a temporary aberation due to the bleeding process as when doing this your not developing the full pressure in the master cylinder to assist with holding the seal closed...
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Dont believe anything on the internet...
Replacement filter and seal for fuel pump?
in Fuel System
Posted
That pump looks exactly like the item 208493 that Paddocks have for sale.You could ask them if their overhaul kit is suitable for it? In fact is looks to be what they supplied for my 2L Vitesse and I thought it was wrong but has worked fine for a few years now....