johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Is it the standard 3 rail gearbox with D type OD youre fitting Roger?
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3 hours ago, Alex Lowe said:
Would you know what the bearing number is so I can get a pair ordered up for the side shafts?
Its listed as a RLS7 or LJ7/8 but dont know the suffix as Nick points out...
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As the Flitchett item is new I would fit that unless youre really worried about the original look! Its probably smaller diameter because its a modern manufactured one and not recon but will do the job fine plus give more room for the exhaust etc
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Im not sure that type of fan has rubber mountings, its so light I think it might have bosses as part of the moulding and just bolts up with washers on those...
James Paddock can sometimes be good on price so its worth checking different suppliers.
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Has the front nut got a split pin through it? If so I believe it will have, as Colin says, a solid not collapsible spacer...
With the flange theyre quite soft so shouldnt need heat to straightening it. The hard part is how to hit it without distorting the whole thing and I think it needs to be done using some sort of dolly and against a solid flat surface. Finally you could use a little filing to ensure the joint face is perfectly flat.
If you do replace the flange then the number of turns counted on the nut will probably no longer be relevant however if a solid spacer type you should just take it to the specified torque anyway.
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http://ep-services.co.uk/ this is the one but looks like their site is undergoing maintenance...
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Ha ha if they have got the ratio wrong is doesnt hold out much hope for the state of the diff😆
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ooof this comes up regularly and it appears the manual is wrong about the distance for the stone guard! Its too far on and the conclusion is that the best way is to let everything be pushed into place by the hub as the shaft nut is done up. That way you can be sure the hub is hard up against the outer bearing and ditto the dust shield. As theres no shoulders on the shaft and the inner needle bearing just runs directly on it theres no risk of preloading either bearing...
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
there you go its a 4 hole diff so need two more stud holes adding or you swap cases and a coupling swap ( its is from a IV swing spring onwards )
it has a castle nut on the coupling so its not collapsible spacer'd preload so its provenence is buyer beware it most unlikey to be 3.89 :1 or 3.63
all early and spitfire IV was 4.11:1 only the 1500 was 3.63:1 the only spit with a 3.89:1 (FH)was sold as 1500 in north america theres a lot of very mixed clues about mkIV ratios some do list FH as 3.89 others 4.11 ( and you have to read in the US market spec)
leave you to pick the bones out of that the Triumph factory parts list for MK IV shows as 4.11:1 the std ratio for UK
you need to drive what you have and why go out buying unkown parts on a whim there will be many other bits and bobs you will need first
and a good understanding of the mix and wont match triumph parts bin
Pete
Think youre a bit off there Pete as thatll be an FH and 3.89 as indicated by the seller who offers a lot of diffs for sale. However youre right about the coupling and the number of casing holes as 3.89 comes in 4 and 6 hole flavours.
This seller asks rather high prices for unreconditioned diffs so presumibly will give a refund on a noisy one (guess who pays the postage though?)....
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A 3.89 offers a ratio between the one fitted and the 3.63. I think that would be a good compromise as you dont want to lose too much acceleration do you? Also it would fit correctly as it has the 6 mounting holes for the spring rather than the 4 used on the other (although it might be possible to swop casings)...
With any diff the hard part is to get a good s/h (or even reconditioned!) one as the seals can leak and, worse, gears/bearings whine. The front seal is the most likely to be worn and fortunately the easiest to change but noise can be very difficult and expensive to cure. To try to buy a quiet diff without hearing it running all you can do is check it turns smoothly but with some resistance, has a small amount of backlash and inspect the internal gears. Some suppliers will offer to replace it if theres a problem but it could be a lot of hassle and I dont know how this guarantee works😳
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The bushes in the trunnion are plastic so self lubricating plus if there was a connection the oil would tend to run out of the trunnion whereas its supposed to sit in there like a bath.
The little spring loaded ball in the grease nipple used for oiling can be stuck or bunged up so making it harder to push oil in. I usually free them off with a fine piece of steel wire beforehand...
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hmmm Id want a lot of nice warm fuzzy feeling for that!
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ha yes I like tools as well but a carb balancer is something that you use so infrequently (well unless youre an inveterate fiddler!) that I wouldnt want to spend a lot on another one...
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you say 'it worked reasonably well' so on what did it fall short?
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yes the concave shape in both the valve and bracket are sufficient to squeeze the thick O ring now offered as a replacement seal onto the pipe.
Think the paper washers may have been added by a PO to increase the clamping. Only other observation is that the bracket in your photo doesnt look very well centred on the heater pipe at the moment but hopefully that will correct itself as the valve fixing is tightened up...
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6 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
That must have been one smooth running, foxy lorry.
Certainly would explain the weight of the engine😁
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yes think the six came from a light lorry engine didnt it?
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
Oh heck ............ you've got me all disappointed now
Pete
Good looking tractors though👍
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16 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
That's very true, but so many times over the years I've bought something that was totally unnecessary, and wasted so much money, just because a few others said it was great and I just had to have it...
Also got to remember what we drive are closer to a tractor than to F1😆
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5 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Gear oil, engine oil, brake pads.... most of them are over-specced for tootling about in our cars for a few thousand miles per year. I spent £50 on Lucas engine oil that was changed a year later after only 300 miles; great reviews, be all and end all of classic motor oil... but my use didn't justify it. If you're a fast driver, rallying or doing high mileage then it may justify additional cost for some of the more high-spec lubricants but for a low-use classic, good moderately priced product is perfectly adequate and performs no better or worse than the expensive stuff, especially if it's all serviced once a year at least.
Lets face it, our hobby isnt logical so often we spend money to get a nice warm fuzzy feeling - its a personal choice of how much of that we want and how much were prepared (or allowed☺️) to spend to get it....
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well the electronic ones, as long as its rated for the current you draw, will give a stable output voltage under all conditions...
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Yes when you look inside the original type they are very crude with a heater element and bimetalic strip so the average voltage produced is dependant on the load. In our cars with the standard set up this isnt a problem and mine has lasted 50 years which isnt bad👍
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thanks
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Any idea which one it is Doug or how to search for it?
1976 Spitfire 1500
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
The bar sticking out of the main casing is the reverse idler spindle and that hole in the adaptor is its rear support so has to be a good fit. The adaptor should tap down into place and I think its preferable to do it like that than use the bolts which might not pull down evenly - obviously a bit of oil on it will help.