johny
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Posts posted by johny
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The slave cylinder has to be able to slide back n forth so yes convex side to the backplate with a bit o copperslip or something both sides...
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Yes Paul think you have the best set up there with a hard to find thin adaptor and a specially made 1" shorter large tip mainshaft (which are not available new at the moment)...
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It'll work fine as long as the chip is solidly held against a metal surface for cooling, something which Id imagine isnt so easy to achieve inside an old stabiliser...
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Unfotunately I think its this one which looks as if looks to be a combined 3 and single rail unit...
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Yes Ive just gone the electronic route but very (too) cheaply by getting just an individual chip for a quid or so and soldering connections on to it. This has worked but Im not very happy with the installation as the wiring puts too much force on the tails so I'll probably have to spend a bit more to get something more robust😤
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Change of subject but what type of voltage stabiliser did you put in Chris?
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Im really surprised it wont shift. Youve scraped away the rust round the outer ring as much as possible? And youve tried knocking it in slightly with a long bar?
Sawing will be difficult with the poor access and risk of damaging the block sealing face. You know if you take the head off the plug will fall out😜
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yes I think Ive just seen the picture of the one you bought and it looks like its fitted with the single rail rear components so will be an 1" longer than a standard 3 rail D type box....
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you will need the later 1850 fine spline friction plate as the rest of the clutch is the same. However if you want to mix and match clutch components is another matter...
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of course the other thing to take into account is that materials and machining tolerances have moved on a lot since our boxes were manufactured. Current synchro rings and gears are made of metals that better resist wear and are lighter so spin up much more easily during the synchronisation process giving faster and possibly smoother changes. You have to alter your style when driving our cars and work at it a bit more but I think thats part of the enjoyment👍
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I think maybe your box is a bit tired because yours will have the later bigger synchro rings which should be more effective than the original type in mine. With the torque of the six plus a weaker bearing design you can imagine how gentle I am with it although its true gear changes are less frequent as I get it into 4th asap and pretty much leave it there...
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Your right that the error is pretty big but theres some reasons why it would be surprising if an early gearbox (and it would have to be very early to be only 3 synchro) had been installed:
Yours should be a single rail which only came in 3.89 and 3.63 flavours and all of them 4 synchro. This type can be confirmed by the position of reverse on the gear lever which should be lift, right and forward?
The earlier 3 rail has reverse on the left and is an inch shorter so a making a swop a bit more complicated.
Our theory is that the earlier boxes all had the same speedo drive gears and the correction was done in the speedo itself.
A crunch on selecting a gear can be due to a worn synchro, dragging clutch and/or high tickover and is not unusual in first.
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Yes Graham has got it. Although youre not changing diffs in this case you could think of your car as a 3.89 that has had a 3.63 diff fitted...
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I think its more likely to be an electromagnetic sensor, like the ones used on wheels for ABS braking systems, that produces a signal when a metal trigger comes close enough...
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Right and I calculate if a 3.89 gearbox has been installed you'll only get about 9.3 revolutions of the cable over that distance....
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yes thats the correct one for your car so if a gearbox designed for a 3.89 diff ratio has been installed you will have a speedo which under reads by about 4 mph at 3000rpm (assuming perfect speedo and tacho calibration).
Unfortunately the gearbox number cant be seen wthout removing the interior cover...
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4 hours ago, martyn wright said:
Hi Jonny! The Dynamo is okay, but was thinking of upgrading as I am also fitting a radio? Everyone seems to say that a alternator is the way to go??
Cheers martyn
Why not fit the radio and see if your ignition light comes on when blasting out on tickover? If not stick with the dynamo as it looks a lot more classic (they even sell expensive alternators made to look like dynamos!), unless of course youre looking for something to fiddle with (and theres nothing wrong with that😍)...
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Hi, can I ask what are you trying to power and what makes you think the dynamo isnt up to it?
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I think you'll be lucky to see much difference unless the cars on a rolling road and really doing some work so the butterflies are well open...
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Think Iain wants weaker on constant running and richer on acceleration so need to work out which is the standard spring and find a weaker one?
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yes its interesting. I wonder if you can estimate the length of the spring when its installed and then take it out to put weights on it. When its compressed to the same length thats the equivalent weight youd have to start with on the piston when driving without a spring....
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yes a bit complicated as it needs to be matched to the right needle profile as well.
The weight of the piston should have the same effect as the spring so it might be possible to remove your spring and try different weights to adjust the mixture...
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to make the mixture richer on acceleration you could try a thicker oil...
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I think the spring strength determines the piston position for a given vacuum and the oil thickness changes how quickly the piston gets there...
Uprated GT6 gearbox
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Work of the devil as far as Im concerned😜