johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Its a GT6/Vitesse 2L manual so definitely for a lip seal but your right, the housing doesnt weigh much and with a bit of care it should self centralise....
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That sounds reasonable especially as the needle's magnet/disc mechanism and bearings will almost certainly have seized up bit over the years. In fact you could even try opening it up for a clean and lube as that part is easy...
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Its true the sump bolts go into the seal housing which has to be removed to replace the seal and the risk is that the sump gasket will be damaged during removal.
Also I see in my manual that the seal is supposed to be centralised with a special tool before bolting down the housing however I didnt use one and my seal has been fine...
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Sometimes theyre a bit tight in the end of the crankshaft so you might need to hook it out or I believe some people use a grease gun to pump in and push it out. Its probably ok as they dont seem to wear much and arent tight from new but worth checking as cheap...
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13 hours ago, chrisbladen said:
Gearbox has already been rebuilt so all that "should" be sound 🤞. Will make sure i check the other bits thanks
Just thought you could also check the wear on the gearbox input shaft support bush that is fitted in the end of the crankshaft. With the box off you should be able to pull the bronze bush out and see how much play it has on the spigot...
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I think oil dilution by contamination with unburnt fuel plays a part in loss of viscosity and as far as I know the effect is the same whatever oil is used. Probably the only solutions are having the engine in as good a condition as possible and changing the oil earlier. It would be an interesting experiment to see if changing a cheap half price oil twice as often as an expensive one would result in a better final oil pressure....
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well how well does the gearbox run? At very least you can tighten all bolts and perhaps replace the oil seals at both ends? Obviously the clutch can be looked at including the thrust bearing plus a check made for any sign of leak from the slave cylinder seal...
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What ever you do dont ask if an electric fan is a good idea!
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yes Im not saying that youve must have a non standard pump as the earlier fan might fit perfectly on the later pump. Looking at Rimmers site your pump pulley diameter should be bigger than the casing while on the early one its the other way round. If this is confirmed I would get the correct 7 blade plastic fan which should be more effective and quieter...
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The pump bodies and impellor are the same for all of our cars but I know the pulleys can be different both in diameter and offset. Not sure in your case what the differences are...
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Its 1.1/8" across the flats with the nearest metric being 29mm which is difficult to find so a 30mm should do but might do slight damage to the nut. Your diff being a castellated nut ought to be a non crushable spacer type in which case you just take the tightening to the torque specified in the manual. However as its difficult to confirm this type of spacer its a good idea to mark the nut, the flange and the shaft and count the turns of the nut coming off. Then put everything back in the same place (hopefully the torque will be about right) so then it will still be right if it is a crushable spacer🤗
I take it youre replacing the seal and you will need some way of holding the input flange without damaging it to both undo and retighten the nut....
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Sounds a reasonable diagnosis but the only thing that worries me is that fan is from a Mk1, 2, 3 Spitfire which used a different water pump from the later models like yours. Hopefully your case is just a fan swop and not the water pump as well but sure somebody will be along soon to tell us if theres any differences...
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oil light comes on when oil pressure drops to a very low point of around 5psi (dependant on pressure switch fitted) and unless this can be corrected immediately, for example by increasing the tickover speed, the engine must be stopped.
Of course low oil level could bring up the light because the pump cant produce any pressure but other reasons might be pump/filter blocked, worn engine, pressure relief valve stuck open, major leak or catastrophic bearing failure😵
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Most likely coming from sump which is relatively easy to work on but could be the joint between block and back plate especially around the area of the crank alloy rear seal carrier. This carrier can be problematic in two ways: its sump fixing holes can strip easily or its not sitting flush against the backplate and both issues are complicated to cure. Perhaps you can find out more with a clean and dusting of talc....
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Not sure what the noise is but can recommend a change of bearings and oil pump. I did this in situ on my Vitesse and the oil pressure is greatly improved. It was just starting to rattle so the right time and obviously cured it.
Not the nicest of jobs as I did it on axle stands and keeping everything clean can be difficult but better than removing the engine (unless youve got other stuff to do on it).
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In our cars the box has to come out from inside as the chassis prevents bottom access. The good news is that with the cover off and seats out its not a bad job as the gearboxes are relatively light and small especially without OD. You'll probably need a helper for the last stage to save any risk of a strain...
While the gearbox is out obviously its a good time to do any necessary jobs on it. If theres no faults then I would at least consider replacing the oil seals at each end and checking the tightness of all bolts. Also the clutch should be inspected and changed if more than a little worn.
However before jumping into all this ensure youve discounted all other possible sources and causes....
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Its that tight is it, tried any heat on it?
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well its just possible but the much more likely source is the crankshaft rear seal☹️
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Could check that the crankcase breather system is working correctly and its not pressure forcing more oil out? Remove rocker cap and see how much pressure there is - long shot but worth checking....
Also engine oil level? Has this leak just started or just gradually got worse?
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However I think.... Im right in saying that the 1 1/8 is also good for the diff pinion nut while a 28mm is too small🤗
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yes quite common and youre lucky it came free that easy! Some people even wedge the pedal in the operated position during storage but I think that could bring other problems...
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To hold the chrome centre I think they have to be like this Colin and used with a plastic washer that fits in the middle shoulder. These might be from an 1850 but think theyre the same...
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interesting, so thats why on some cars although the indicators bulbs can be changed for LEDs the dash one cant as its got to flow current in both directions...
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Ahhh there are two separate dash repeaters for the Spitfire then? On the earlier cars its just one common one so the flasher unit has have a separate output for it...
Wondering if Spit has the right diff fitted?
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
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I expected to find some means of adjusting the distance between the magnet and disc but couldnt see anything. However it was worth cleaning everything with a artist brush and lubing with a penetrating oil...