johny
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Posts posted by johny
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As I say for M10 (and 3/8UNF?) the only way is with allen socket cap head screws...
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Make sure then that the head of the bolt you use will fit ok in the sump channel AND you can get a socket on it to do it up....
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The seal block does come out but may be stuck to the gasket of the front plate which if damaged complicates things a bit😵
It is easiest to just re-tap in situ so I did mine Metric because its a courser thread than UNF and theres more availability. It had to be M10 as the stripped hole can be almost 8mm diameter and then I used allen socket cap head screws as only this type will fit perfectly in the channel of the sump. I did this without even removing the sump but of course if it is being removed that then allows its two holes to be opened up slightly...
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Also the propshafts are quite a bit different in lengths as well - you'll need a new one or to have yours shortened....
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It can only be 7 or 13psi and yours being a later car should be the latter. One thing my method of using the radiator overflow to connect to the pump is convenient but means that the radiator cap cant lift and you could over pressurise the system. Also if youve exceeded the cap pressure when you remove the pump connection the cap will vent the excess immediately....
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Why dont you try pressurising the system and leaving over night as recommended Chris?
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I can see why Chris as its a lot of work to find theres still a problem! However if you closely inspect everything (block core plug hole, crank seal surface and new components), maintain good cleanliness and take your time with the reassembly Id put the chances of success as very good. Its the way just about every engine rebuild is done....
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well you need the backplate to attach the starter motor unless youve got some other way of spinning the engine?
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I take it the first picture is after its all been cleaned up Chris? Its unusual as the plug looks in really good condition and I dont think thats one of the higher risk plugs.
Running the engine without a backplate isnt recommendable or necessary as you could just refill with coolant and pressurise the system with air. Ive rigged up a hand pump to the radiator vent pipe before and then pumped up to the cap rating. You can then leave it overnight if you like to see if theres any leakage....
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56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Update: replacement spring fitted today, I've gone back to the 8-leaf fixed spring in the hope that it doesn't sag as far. The brake hose was very tight to fit with the axles hanging, but on settling down back onto all four wheels it's as bad as ever.
so it still sits as low as it was before?
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Strange its got worse and dont know if changes in fuel have had an effect. Ive got an electric fan on mine and although its not necessary for normal cooling I do like that fact that I can feel it pushing hot air out of the engine bay when Im stationary...
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never had a problem with the Vitesse and its been in some horrendous temperatures😍
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source of vaporisation seems to vary but the result is poor starting and running obviously worse the hotter the engine. However this symptom can also be caused by many other things so its easy to misdiagnose the problem. Saying that Triumph in their wisdom did fit a thermal spacer to the fuel pump on some of the last cars which seems to indicate they took the issue seriously....
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11 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
I would fit a 12v coil; easier to add aftermarket "ignition Modules".
With a 6v coil I think it only means finding an ignition switch fed 12v supply to power the module rather than, as usual, use the supply to the coil which when running will only be ~6v.
And sorry dont understand your next post!
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its a pain but I think the retorquing after ~500miles is essential...
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well there will be bubbles but of vaporised fuel not air and they will certainly not have the energy density of liquid fuel...
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no not air but the fuel vaporising too soon as it shouldnt do this until its sucked up in the jets. If it arrives at the carb already vaporised then I reckon it all goes wrong as the float wont operate correctly with a gas which will then come out of the overflow. The chamber level will be all over the place so this plus the liquid/gas mix in there will really upset the combustion mixture😳
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I wonder if theres any way to deactivate the starting 12v supply to see how your car starts with just the running voltage? If ok, and I suspect it will be unless youre car is poorly mainained, kept outside and started in severe winter conditions, then it should operate satisfactorily with a conventional 12v coil...
Looking at the wiring diagram for the test I think it might be as easy as temporarily disconnecting the white/yellow wire from the starter solenoid. Strangely in my manual GT6 after KE20000 show the coil as always being fed through the resistor regardless of starting or running - this must be an error as otherwise theres no point having the system!
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ok and I would replace the complete pump and keep its guarantee. They dont last for ever and on failure can leave you stranded so a spare isnt a bad idea. The only possible downside is that if your carb float valves arent brilliant a new pump can overcome them and cause overflows...
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Thats difficult to guarantee as the picture can be different from what you actually get although it will still be suitable for the application. You could speak to them if you want to confirm it...
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that part number is also for Dolomites and looks very similar to yours. If you remove yours and the operating lever is the same as the picture I think its a pretty safe bet👍
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phew! Yes it looks like the pumps come designed to fit like that. Unfortunately Im pretty sure you wont find just a cover - theres quite a few designs of pump so any cover might not fit and also a new pump is only around 20 pounds (Paddocks RKC1624?)....
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Are those hoses round the right way? I would have thought the rh one was coming from the tank and the lh going off to carbs but the arrow on the top cover shows the opposite and indicates the inlet leading to the gauze filter...
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2 hours ago, chrisbladen said:
Box is out and just thought id check if it leaks if inclined so leaned it downwards slightly, went back after half hour and its leaked like a trooper so its fair to say iv got the scroll type seal still in there.
Clutch disc has literally ZERO friction material left so also replacing this while im at it, along with rear crank seal, speedo oil seal and new sump gasket
The disheartening fact is that After all this there will still be some kind of leak from somewhere lol
Really heartening to find the clutch like that though as it makes the job even more worthwhile! You could be right about the gearbox seal although even with a lip seal its asking a lot for it to hold back direct contact with oil - in service the oil is just splashing about while the shaft is spinning and better supported...
Bell housing oil leak
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
The 3/8 UNF is still 24 TPI same as 5/16 which I feel is a bit fine for aluminium while the M10 is 17 so less likely to strip....