johny
-
Posts
7,610 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
43
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by johny
-
-
1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
not starting hot sounds a bit on the rich side
Pete
Sorry, yes that sounds more like it...
-
Cliff, I would seriously recommend downloading a free manual from that site as this information is common to many cars and would help you learn a lot.....
-
I know youve set the mixture with the pins but its not an exact science so you could richening the mixture a half turn to see if that improves the hot starts.
Also have you got recent cylinder compression readings?
-
I think you need to identify the diff either by cleaning off the painted serial number or if that isnt possible by counting the actual wheel turns.
To do the latter, with the car raised, you have to accurately mark the position of both wheels and diff input flange then lock one of the wheels solidly. An assistant has to turn the free wheel exactly two revolutions while you count the turns of the input flange and mark where it ends up. Your flange will have rotated 3 times plus some which you have to work out is 0.27, 0.63 or 0.89 of a turn...
-
I think we've agreed on here that the variation for diff ratios isnt corrected in the gearbox but in the actual speedo.
The correct one for yours should show 1000 (revs/mile) on the face...
-
Not sure as perhaps where the washer and circlip sit is the same size in all MC and also the pushrod is universal so that just the bore/piston size varies. That seems logical and then one pushrod can be used for all...
It would be interesting to see if anything is already in place on the new MC?
Although I dont think a workshop manual specific to the 1500 Spitfire is available you might find some of the others available free from vitessesteve.co.uk useful...
-
Sorry I think we might have misled you a bit as looking in the Vitesse online workshop manual the MC has an internal circlip that retains a washer which allows the pushrod to move but not come out. When the pedal is released the internal spring traps the pushrod between the piston and washer/circlip so it cant move. You might be able to rotate it with your fingers but there shouldnt be any back and forward play.
The only possible play will be between the clevis and brake pedal which of course then does indicate that the MC isnt under pressure and all is correct.
I think if the clevis is fixed (threaded ones are available) the washer cant be removed so that rod can only be used on the same size bore MCs and wont be transferable to your new one...
-
So the actuator rod must be positively located in this MC however at least youve proved its not under load and can function correctly👍
-
1500 Spit should be 3.63 which is FR
-
Depends how youre set up Pete, series or parallel. I do it ignition off and use a supply from the battery through a bulb and connected to the points supply wire then the bulb is illuminated to start with until you get to 10º BTDC and the points open so the light goes out....
-
yes and there can be quite a bit more force applied to the brake MC, especially in an emergency!
-
Hey I would keep off the coke, thats not going to help😂 But something must have changed on the carbs, stuck piston, mixture adjustment or air leak?
-
Yes the pads bedding in could improve the pedal and braking a lot plus bleeding again if necessary isnt a bad idea.
You could take out the split pin and separate the brake linkage to see how much difference there is between the pedal hole and clevis pin. Actually at the same time you could change over the clutch and brake MCs mounting brackets as I believe they have been swopped - the reinforced one should be for the brake....
-
Only got to be really careful not to damage sealing face of hole in block....
-
1
-
-
Next step is a bigger screwdriver or possibly hub cap remover/wheel brace tool. You might have to find something to hold in place and lever on.
Or if theres enough room find a socket the right size and hammer it in slightly to get it free. Dont knock it in all the way in though as it might drop into the internal waterway...
-
1
-
-
This site is very useful for calculating rev/speed with your cars details (you can try other diff ratios until the results match your readings):
https://richyrichracing.com/tools/gear-ratio-speed-calculator-for-standard-triumph-drivelines/
-
Its sounds like the mixture is very weak for some reason so runs ok on choke but then becomes unsustainable when thats pushed in. Its going to be either too much air from somewhere or too little fuel....
-
Went for a 10 pound MC jobbie on ebay and so far all ok...
-
Certainly with the strombergs on my Vitesse the choke set up has taken some fiddling. As I dont drive it in very cold conditions I needed to set it at more tickover revs for less choke. However if you go too far with this it does idle nicer on choke but can die when you try to pull away!
-
1
-
-
I wouldnt change too much yet as itll confuse the issue. As Pete says check the MC actuator rod is free to rock with your fingers and not under load. No adjustment available but the end of the piston where the rod locates is conical so the rod wont fall out of place but is free to move around a little...
-
Might be worth splashing out on a new pump? Not expensive and the manual primer is quite nice to have if leaving the car unstarted for long periods. There seems to be a risk that some pumps on offer produce too much pressure so causing carbs to overflow but, as I say, my Paddock one hasnt given me any problems...
-
The official tools use round rod of fairly small diameter as the clamping surfaces to spread the load and ensure good close off but its not critical...
-
Blimey Im surprised there wasnt vibration to be felt when driving plus smoke coming out of the rubbing brake!
-
There is a specific pipe clamp tool available that can be used on rubber hoses (its not recommended to clamp the ones with braided metal covering due to risk of damaging them). Otherwise various other tools can be used like G clamps or mole grips etc as long as only smooth non cutting surfaces are applied to the hose so in some cases packers have to be inserted. The clamping force also has to be set to do the job without being excessive...
Its a way of identifying a part of the brake system that is causing pedal softness as you could clamp all 4 brakes and if the pedal still isnt solid theres a problem with the servo/MC. Otherwise you can release a brake at a time to find the dodgy one☺️
Wondering if Spit has the right diff fitted?
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
yes thats the correct ratio speedo👍