johny
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Posts posted by johny
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If only they could've made it in aluminium!
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Is it a Triumph😂
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Probably sucking eggs here but check the sump seal face and flatten down any raised areas around the bolt holes from previous over tightening. I would also suggest new spring washers unless yours are in very good condition as the correct bolt torque is low so they can loosen....
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Keeping the tank pretty full when left should also help and reduces corrosion in it as well. However if left too long it's more petrol to go stale😳
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Trouble is the relief valve is rated at around 45psi so you don't know what the pump is giving or should really give! Certainly a good idea to confirm all tolerances while your there....
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It's low revs pressure that seems more problematic and my pump has too much axial clearance which can be rectified by laboriously (unless yours is alloy) grinding down the body on a sheet of glass. Of course main and big end bearing clearances can also be a big drain on oil pressure....
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Not even going to check the clearances on the pump Nigel? Its only 3 bolts or are you really happy with the oil pressure its been giving?
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Alcohol, very important but not worthy catching the lurgy for....
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18 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
Thank you, I've always found strainers inside 2 litre Mk2 and 2.5 litre sixes. If there's enough debris to totally block the strainer, I would imagine the engine is already in serious trouble!
Nigel
It's not really totally blocking that could happen but restriction of flow so at high revs there less oil for adequate cooling of bearings. Anyway I'm talking about prolonged lack of oil changes so there's a large amount of residue which is unlikely to happen these days....
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My original pump on a MK1 Vit had no strainer only a grill across the top of the sump to stop any large debris falling in. I wonder if a strainer could get blocked with gunk and cause oil starvation....
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19 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:
it is a sensible choice - yes, the MOT-testing stations are open, but this will reduce the number of people who need to enter these businesses thus further-restricting movement (getting the MOT test done is no longer essential)
....... Andy
But turns out off licences are essential😳
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47 minutes ago, SixasStandard said:
Thanks Clive, those are all useful points to take note of........particularly the telescopic column, for some reason I thought the column was fixed. The original wheel is definitely terminal, but your comments regarding the feel and safety of a wood wheel have given me pause for thought, as I've never actually had a car with a wood wheel before. I'll definitely broaden the search based on your feedback.
Thanks,
Ian
Don't think the column was intended as telescopic rather as collapsible with the clamp torque set to slide in the event of an impact. Obviously you can move the wheel towards the dash but then there won't be any cushioning effect if you do hit it.
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Roger says it changes gear ok with double declutching and I'm not sure that would be the case with a stuck on clutch, strange....
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18 hours ago, Ian Hughes said:
Not sure if this has been asked before, I am relatively new so bear with me.
I have a kenlow fan, in addition to the engine fan on my GT6. I had a leak in my radiator and have taken it out to replace it. I looked at the fan and I reckon it covers at least 60% of the surface of the radiator.
My question is, if I have to run the electric fan to cool my engine, am I simply having to cool it because the fan body is restricting flow over the radiator and not allowing sufficient airflow to flow over the radiator to cool the coolant? I was also surprised at the amount of debris, grass, leaves etc that I found jammed behind the body. Not much you could do about it unless you removed the radiator to access it.
Any thoughts on the subject?
Hi Ian, your question sounds as if youre talking about cooling while driving along and no fan mechanical or electric should make much difference at normal driving speeds. A fan motor mounted in front of the radiator will give a blocking effect when driving along but it cant be much compared to the bonnet front grill or number plate.
If your problem was to be, as it is in most cases, overheating in traffic then thats not due to airflow obstruction from any source and my personal opinion is that a good electric fan can move more air through the radiator than a mechanical one. Note however that the problem can be due to poor heat transfer on the water side of the system so the increased airflow is just masking the issue.
On my Vit Mk1 I couldnt see much benefit from having both mechanical and electric fans so have successfully removed the original item.
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First step is always talk to the workshop so that they can explain or rectify the issues. I believe it later looks much better for your case if you're shown to have been reasonable....
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Yes that second observation is a definitely possibility as the diff warms up the air inside expands and if the vent is blocked just forces oil/air out of the easiest route....
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I believe you are indeed correct sir! Saying that Id still like to put it back together exactly the same and know where the castellated nut ends up compared with its original position but then I am a nervous type.....
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should have said before, make sure you mark up the flange and nut position relative to shaft plus count number of turns to remove because when it goes back on you dont torque it to what the manual says (unless youre putting in new bearings) but just get the nut back to where it was. This is because you preload new bearings so that as they settle in (and wear) theres no chance of freeplay but later during the life of the bearings you dont want to load em up all over again.....
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I think a nut gun will do it as theyre pretty good. Ive just done my front oil seal (Vitesse) but I took the diff out to do it. I could have done it in situ but as you say it isnt nice and I took the opportunity to give it a flush out (Ive got no drain plug fitted) and install a 1/2" lowering block.
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Can I ask what job you are planning to do on the diff?
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I take it the split pin is out?🤣 No they are very tight and really you need the special tool that bolts on to the flange (see ebay) because otherwise your just winding up the gears/axles and then if you start bashing you could take a gear tooth off. Ive done it with a bodge where I put a couple of the flange bolts back in, tightened up, and then use a flat ring spanner on one of the bolts wedged against the other to hold the flange while undoing the castellated nut. Even then its tight so you risk distorting the flange and/or getting a hernia....
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To add another factor into the mix, I like to get my standard Mk1 Vit into 4th gear as early as possible because thats the quietest and most robust gear. To do this I find the 3.89 diff perfect as I can pootle round town in 4th down to 1100rpm and it'll still pull from there with no problems....
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It looks like it might have been bored out to take a needle roller with its own outer race, thats not what came out is it? If that can be sorted out and no other cluster sourced at a reasonable price I think I would be prepared to give it a go but always very gently in reverse....
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hmmm thanks they do look pretty good....
Best exhaust for Herald 1360 with Mk4 Spitfire 1300 engine?
in Engine
Posted
Yes they don't look cheap!