johny

How do you know when the stub is fully home Colin, does the parallel part have to come right up against the vertical link?

Not sure how different thickness cups helps really as I think its the rubber seal that is the deciding factor...

Is your manual an old version because the Vitesse/GT6 one shows the newer design. Once youve installed the top hats and inner seal discs fully home in the trunnion try the tube in place. It MUST protrude each side. If not perhaps use the old tube?

Hi, 1/ There seems to have been some problems with the kits not fitting the space available in the uprights, which might actually have varying dimensions, so it looks like the manufacturers are supplying different options. 2/ I seem to remember that initially Triumph had trunnions that suffered from crud ingress so they changed the design to try to improve sealing...

Hmmm I wonder if it would be better to use a non nylock nut first to pull the stub into place and lock it then replace with the nylock. Both the taper surfaces do also need to be completely grease free so best cleaned with an alcohol... Now you probably need to use the split pin hole at the other end of the stub to hold it to undo the nut.

I suppose if possible the optimum position is where you lean the lever over and it comes into contact with the stop plate just where it needs to be to slide smoothly into 1st gear. Certainly dont want the lever restricted so that you cant go easily into first or prevents a racing change to second! Anyway all a bit arbitary as difficult to judge when the lever is exactly vertical....

Yes I think youll find that weld of the mounting support plate interferes with the OD housing so it has to be installed as in the first photo. Easy to confirm this by bolting onto the OD before installation....

You might be able to hammer an aluminium disc into shape but need a former and a bit of skill🤪

Pin would work as a last resort to save an otherwise good gearlever but finding a suitable dished washer might be more difficult🤔

oh dear, after market quality strikes again Im afraid. Its a good idea to try to reuse as much of the original stuff as possible even if sometimes it doesnt look great...

Didnt the snap ring come with the gearlever bush kit? Or is that the one that has come adrift?

Yes the circlip groove gets rounded edges instead of being nice and square so the circlip wont stay in so well. Some people thump the gearlever down for reverse and out it pops....

Yes this is a common problem and it can be down to the groove being worn so allowing the circlip to slip out. Being loose certainly doesnt help... Also it sounds like the stop pin has worn flat as it should be round like in the Triumph drawing. What state is the stop plate in?

This is what youre up against😲

I take it youve sprayed lubricant in the lock? Otherwise only possibility I can see is to insert a shim of some kind as Pete suggests but in the gap (if there is one) between the lock and the door as between the door and dash wont work. Usually the lock isnt a perfect fit and you might be able to slide something in directly on top of it to pass under the catch 28 and push down the latch - push the door in while doing this to release the tension. Its a long shot and you might be better off spending the time on removing the dash completely...

Heres a Smiths item used on motorcycles and I suppose as its much more accessible it comes with a grease nipple👍

Yes not easy. Here it all is with 28 being the catch with the latch of course trapped behind it....

Sorry just looked and got it wrong. These I got for the top ball joints off eBay - they felt strong and fitted perfectly...

Ah wait a minute, you might be best off getting just new (hopefully) better quality gaiters. Ive just done this on my top ball joints as theyre fine but the gaiters didnt last two years! Got them from balljointboots.co.uk but too early to say how theyre going to last....

Sounds like its done some miles then but I presume the wishbone bushes, trunnions and shocks are all ok? However for peace of mind you could take off the hubs to inspect and regrease wheel bearings plus remove backplates. This would then allow the trunnions to be unscrewed for an inspection of the vertical link threads that are can be prone to corrosion and failure. The only sticking point might be that the trunnion bush bolts can rust in their sleeves and so need cutting out which isnt a fun job. Saying that I wonder if with everything else dismantled (top ball joints, track rods, shock, brake calipers, hubs and back plate off) you couldnt just unscrew the vertical link from the trunnion without touching their bush bolts - perhaps someone on here has done it like that?

Yes I suppose grease would be best but difficult to get in there so got to be oil...

You certainly shouldnt be able to pull the gearlever upwards...

I would guess your circlip 69 has slipped out of its groove in the gearlever 72 which is very common. Its this that the spring 70 (which could also be broken or very weak) pushes against to keep the lever pulled fully up relative to the pivot ball 77...

Yes you have to be careful Roger but remember the upper explosive limit of petrol is something like 7.6% which means you have to get a lot of air into the tank (92.4%) before it will combust. Petrol evaporates so easily that all the time you have got some in liquid form in the tank, bearing in mind how few openings there are, its almost impossible to get enough air in to be dangerous. The danger comes when the tank is emptied and left open...

Would you fill in the hole left in the wing Roger or make up some sort cap? Blockage not that unusual, rag, paper, rubber from cap seal etc