Realised now that my online manual does show the plug in this cross section drawing but perhaps it gets painted once installed on the rack so isnt easily seen. Also being only a push fit I cant imagine that it actually does very much...
I dont think there is a pin and its the nylon plug that is the damper to stop rattle from the rack shaft. Looks like it just taps in a hole in the outer case and is held in place by the rack mount...
oh no I see, theres a sleeve bush 128002 in the nearside end of the rack tube but my manual says nothing about changing it and I imagine it means a complete rack strip down...
Where does the pin go? The plug, as I understand it, is a guide come damper for the rack and when worn shows as play where the rack exits the outer casing at its nearside end...
Totally lost on this one as Petes 128001 shows as a collar on the pinion at Canleys. Is it 145108 Nylon plug which they do have in stock but which strangely doesnt appear in many of the steering rack diagrams of the various models? I looked for this on a Vitesse rack many years ago and couldnt find it so presumed it was internal and got a complete recon one instead...
Dont remember it being a nice job but then I probably didnt have the right technique. They dont seem to last five minutes and I see they now do rather expensive poly bushes...
I think another look at the front brakes is in order just to check everythings tight and correct. Did the pads have their anti-squeal shims and a dab of coppaslip? I know this is generally for noise on braking but may help in normal running especially until the pads bed fully....
If youre confident all other adjustments are correct how do the carbs respond to their mixture test plungers being operated? Is the result exactly the same on both?
yes should be movement due to compression of the rubber rather than play. Manual says there should be a gap of 1/8" between each clamp and the corresponding rack locating plate...
There is some adjustment in the u clamps and as the rubber bushes wear it would be worth carrying out the procedure as described in the manual. Of course rubber is always going to allow some movement and thats why solid aluminium replacements are sold for those drivers that want a more positive feel...
Pretty limited Dave. The valve seat might bed in a bit over time, the float arm bend a little with constantly operating the valve or its pivot wear some but otherwise there shouldnt be much change...
yes but some people just want to buy a bulb and plug it in. They wouldnt know what a multimeter was and anyway in some bulb holders youd have a job to get the prods in or risk shorting the contacts if you did. The manufacturers have to cater for the lowest level customer and as we know that can be pretty low😂
To be fair though, surely if youre replacing an incandescent bulb sometimes theres no easy way to know the correct orientation for a LED in an existing holder...
yes got to be adjusted on cam sprocket but if you want half a tooth on the crank (to get TDC and cam rocking position) thats only a quarter tooth on the cam because it goes round half as fast. Then of course theres no problem moving the cam sprocket this amount because the offset mounting holes plus the option of using either face allows just that👍
As you say if you want any finer adjustment its got to be an expensive vernier jobbie...