johny

No problem making wrong decisions (well ok not as good as making right ones😁) as long as you made the correct one based on the information you had at the time...

Im afraid Ive had experience of workshops feeding you information so that you start down the road of repairs only to find at the end with the total cost you would have taken a different route - I think its an old trick....

just thought, also check the head is flat!

The zero compression was before the dropped valve. The decision now is whether best to spend money renovating this engine or buy another one...

I just hope the original low compression is explained by the valves and not worn bores/rings (the addition of oil in the compression test would have identified this)🙁

Important to have all the information on the engine condition before starting to spend money on it. Is the piston ok? And whats his opinion on the general wear of the engine especially the bores...

keep looking😁

Youre right, even in the earlier pictures it might be that the valve stem was still in the guide! Presumably the valve was hit and bent by the piston so that it jammed in the guide which was then forced back out of the head....

Still too early to decide on action as need to know condition of cylinder bore and piston - still a chance engine is a write off....

The only way Ive managed it is by putting drum and wheel back on and lowering the car onto the ground so that with the tyre chocked plus hand brake on theres more resistance to allow further tightening of the nut...

Been available a while and says open to offers🤔

The blue one for 12k is too expensive then Gary? You would have spent that on the other with a respray....

must admit I cant believe how nice the authorities are to classic car owners! Whats going on, are they all fellow enthusiasts up in Parliament🤔

Thank Gary, thats interesting to know about the 30 year rule and will probably increase the number of classics coming back from the States👍

Great. Out of interest how did you hold the crank for tightening the pulley?

what do you lock the screwdriver against though John? Then the teeth are vee shaped so not ideal for holding with a screwdriver😲

Youre right Pete and also transmission 'winds up' so sometimes you need a clear rotation to get to the required torque!

I think its academic Colin as how are you going to hold it to go to a that torque? I dont know if even a flywheel gear ring lock would be good for it😁 Maybe use some threadlock on the bolt if youre really worried?

Out of interest how did you hold the shaft to tighten to that?

If you buy a vehicle outside of UK and bring it back theres duty and VAT (=30% of the assessed value of the vehicle?) to pay although you shouldnt have to pay VAT twice ie. claim back in the country of purchase or offset it in the UK. I believe theres no exceptions to this unless youre moving home from another country to the UK and bring the car with you as part of your belongings. However if YOU owned the car in the UK, took it abroad and registered it there but are now bringing it back thats different and should allow you to avoid these charges. Saying all this I dont know how the law stands with regard to the Channel Isles...

I would say the red is your ignition light but the bulbs blown or wiring disconnected and the flickering orange one is your oil pressure. To confirm the latter just locate the oil pressure switch on the passenger side of the engine block and pull off its electrical connector. Without starting turn on the ignition and the orange light shouldnt illuminate until you put said connector back onto the pressure switch...

oh and reckon all the manuals have some small errors and omissions☹️

Must admit I dont achieve it on my pulley and the bolt has never moved - I think the action of the engine tends to keep it tight...

I highly doubt the new materials have changed the correct procedure. Modern cars dont need it but thats more down to the stretch bolts used to clamp heads nowadays. Its a pain but retightening is like an insurance policy against possible early failure of the gasket...

Yes strangely doesnt appear in the Herald workshop manual but the Vitesse one which has a very similar pulley (5/8 UNF bolt) has a figure of 90 - 100lb.ft This is about the same torque recommended for the rear axle to hub nut which has the same size thread and of course is identical to both models so sounds more reasonable than 150 ft.lb....