Phil C

Yes. I used cellulose because it allows a you to apply a number of coats quickly.

I am about to start fitting the body mouldings/trim to my Vitesse restoration which can provide instant gratification (if it goes well) or misery (if you scratch your shiny new paint!). It looks like a straightforward job but is there any specific issues I should be aware of? Particular concerns include; 1. Having fitted new door skins I have to drill holes for the trim rivets - I was thinking masking tape and a string line from front/rear wings but this could go horribly wrong. 2. The short trim to the rear of the filler cap - how does this attach as its is too narrow to use the same rivets? 3. The holes for the bonnet centre trim are much larger than the rest. Is there a reason? My new clips have much smaller holes and I may have to fix with a washer on the rear side? Any other experience to pass on would be most welcome. Thanks Car shown pre-scratched before trim fitting!!

These are made to order for the club and seem very good value. Unfortunately the guy who makes them is not well (heart attack🙁) and so they are currently unavailable. I believe he is ok so they may become available again at some point.

Only for a few minutes, being a small space it soon cleared.

Sorry Paul, been away for a few days and just seen this. I would start by saying I'm no expert in these matters so can only say what I did and any problems I encountered. 1. I assume you mean where it enters the booth? Mine was at floor level but I was concerned this might blow any floor dust/debris into the air. In the end I didn't have a problem but I did get Henry hoovering up the floor regularly. A higher level might remove this risk. 2. Opposite ends is good as it ensures max air displacement. However I directed the incoming blast away from the main spraying area as I didn't want it interfering with the spraying, so it was 90 degrees to the exhaust. You can see my inlet/outlet alignment in the initial picture I posted. I did find the initial inflow quite fierce so extended the hose length and had it turn through 180 degrees which seemed to slow it down a little. You will just have to see how yours behaves and adjust as necessary. Hope this is useful. Phil

Probably not but it just seemed better that they didn't touch and it was simple to do at the time. It would appear the latest floats have hinges much narrower than the locating lugs on the carb body I guess to suit other versions?

One did have a small leak. It still worked but I could hear it swishing around inside. But as you identified these are now unsinkable!🤔 ……wasn’t the Titanic also dubbed “unsinkable “?

Now installed the correct way up. I did use a number of washers on the hinge pin to stop the sideways movement as the inside of the float could rub against the jet housing. Might not be a problem but I thought better if it doesn't. I also cut off the redundant tab as the tip of it caught on float bowl.

Slightly embarrassed for being such a plonker! 🤓 All sorted now. Thanks again

Thanks all for your comments. Pete, thanks for that link, very useful. However my carbs are not like that shown and looking at all the pictures available from suppliers/parts book etc the floats do look as per my new ones. So I began to think may be my carbs are not the correct ones. This is mine with the old float installed and with the new one. In the latter case it is difficult to set the float height without some major bending. The parts drawing for 1600 carbs on Canleys website looks as per my original float. so I'm thinking may be my carbs are off a 1600 Vitesse. May be I have a 1600 engine too!!

Afternoon all Anyone replaced their floats on 150CD carbs recently? I have just received a pair from a well known supplier and find significant differences with the ones being replaced. I have been assured these are the correct ones, and indeed with some manipulations I can probably get them to work. Main differences are; 1. Width of hinge is narrower on the replacement which allows sideways movement. I can address this by shimming with 3mm flat washers. 2. The kink within the originals hinge arm which allows the float to sit horizontal is missing on the replacements. This more tricky as the arm to activate the valve needs to be square to it. Any experience with this? thanks in advance Phil

Thanks, that makes sense. I don't have any original tool but from google photos I am guessing the OE tool is the cranked lever? Probably not difficult to make something up.

It is a Mk2 but not being a fan of the Rostyle trims I am going old school and using simple chrome hub caps. Colin - that gizmo might work but I have yet to fix a hubcap in place so not sure what kind of gap will be available to get any purchase on? I don't want to fix one on until I have a suitable plan to get it off again!

Morning all, Having just had my Vitesse wheels refurbished I'm wondering what the correct method is to remove hub caps without damaging the paint? I see a number of "special" tools online but what is the best option. Thanks

😳😳 didn’t really think about this! I remember as a teenager spraying various motorbikes in a single garage with no extraction, the old compressor cutting in and out and an electric heater on full to keep things dry! I survived 🤓

I can't see why it wouldn't work pulling air out. I think you are bound to get a lot more overspray working at these higher pressures but agree experience will also have an impact. I used a Fuji Mini Mite which provides a constant 9.5 psi so paint wastage was very much minimised. I think this type of sprayer was developed for the furniture/kitchen trade, ie to be used indoors with water based paints, where overspray needed to be kept to an absolute minimum. A mate sprayed his Healey with one, got great results and recommended it to me.

Hi Paul, I had very little overspray/misting but probably because I used a HVLP turbine spray system set at 9psi rather than anything to do with the air system. Not used one before but would recommend them over a compressor system as they are a lot quieter (probably more of a concern re neighbours?) and there is no need to worry about condensation in the air flow. One issue I had to be very careful with was the air entry point into the booth where the air flow was at its maximum. It had to be directed away from the spraying area and also keeping the floor clean to avoid the air flow picking up dust within the booth. An extraction setup would be better but I decided ensuring air is only brought in through the filters would be too difficult (for me). Inevitably there is a smell outside and it would depend how close your neighbours are as to whether it would be a problem. My neighbours are 250m away so not for me but I would say the current Mrs C didn't complain (and she like to comment on noise/smells coming out of my garage) so it can't have been that bad! Hope this helps Phil

Also available for the Herald 😊

Noted 😳

Very nice 😎

Thanks both, all very useful information. After a little search and I find do have the correct chrome finishers. Just need to work out there if there is an accepted substitute for the edge finisher. Not fitted a hood before but keen to give it a go!

Firstly a Happy New Year to all! Hope a good time was had by all. My NY resolution is, as it was last year, to get my Vitesse on the road this year. Not achieved in 2022 but much closer now 🤞 Currently planning hood fitting and found the relevant pages of my sold as "Complete" Parts Manual are missing 😩. My car came with a bare hood frame and no header rail so I have nothing to go on at the moment. I have sourced most parts and have assumed the following order of events, although any advice would be very welcome! 1. Hood fabric to stretch over the header and around into the underside channel. 2. The weather seal retaining channel will then be fitted over the hood material with self tappers. 3. I have bought a new weather seal as shown below. I must admit I did expect it to have locating ridges to fit into the retaining channel. As it is simply square does this just glue into the retaining channel or is the seal shape incorrect? 4. I also believe there should be some kind of finisher along the front leading edge but I can't find any supplier listing such a thing. I was given the following clips (below) with the header rail and told they fix the ends of said finisher. Any advice as to where I can get/make such a trim/seal? 5. Should the header rail inside face be trimmed? Currently I have just painted it black but it might look good covered in vinyl?? Finally, the seal I have bought for the side windows (fits in the aluminium channels around the side windows) feels too rigid, especially at the tight radius around the upper rear edge of the window. Section shown below. Does this look correct? Any recommendations as to a better source of any of the seals mentioned above? Mant thanks in advance of any help offered.

I'll see you....... .....and raise you 5 newly powder coated wheels!! (just picked up this morning 😊) Love a bit of "Bling Poker" 😎

I did. Its the standard alloy cover and cap available from most suppliers and the cap has a single hole through the centre. Unfortunately I can't find the original to compare....its somewhere 🙄 I was just wanting to check the increase in engine speed thing with the cap removed was normal before adjusting the mixture etc. I will now weaken the mixture and see how I get on. Thanks All

I have re-checked float level which was ok and the choke is definitely not sticking on. I guess I was surprised how rich it was running with the jets turned down the recommended 3 rotations.