jmh

Yep! Goes for all years though! Was just a quick drawing!

Make sure the lower edge of the sill will go like:

Early cars were spot welded - must have been to expensive or not good enough? 🙂

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-137811 , or Canley should have?

Yep. If you trim this off, your will have to press the new outer sill up resulting in a poor door fit.

They are not supposed to be curved, but they are - even from factory 🙂 On a very original mk 3, I had 1/4 inch in difference between floor and lip at the middle /front and rear, making the difference on the picture below up to 1/2 an inch. And - don't try to push lower lip of outer sill up to the floor as the new floor panels flange are not as deep as original: See picture:

They are welded on, make sure they can pass the lower lip on the rear valance/inner wing. Usally a rust trap 🙂

Did the same - still have a few spares 🙂

EBC4871 Valve spring - but believe they are no longer available.

Not sure, will take a look.

When I bought County pistons for my mk 3 spitfire FD engine, it had a note inside the box providing the clearance. It was less than stated in the workshop manual.

One for sale in Denmark - but shipping might be an issue 🙂 https://www.dba.dk/bagklap-rear-hatch-triumph/id-1062144186/ No pictures though, don't know the seller either.

Build up from inside out. Floor first, though IMHO you need good doors to start with. Take your time, keep bonnet on so you can check with the front panel /bonnet too. Use lots of self cutting screws 🙂 And remember the outer sill need to go further down than the floor:

http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/chassis.htm Service Note 🙂

I have done a few - often its the ground (internal) wire, soldered to the casting, that comes lose. Take care when you assemble the casting: Using pop rivets with care; its very easy to break the plastic housing.