Colin

Can't remember when I fitted my GT6 style twin pipe Bell exhaust system to my 1147 1970 saloon . . . I know! The irony, right?? Love all the 'tings' it puts out on cooling down. I have no idea how it sounds outside - I'm always driving! But inside, it gets noisy up at 50mph+. You can forget listening to any stereo output at that point! Add to that, that in Summer you have only the open windows with all the rushing wind sounds on top and it's almost a candidate for ear muffs!!

I think I have some rubber foam somewhere - I'll cut some out and add/replace. Dawns on me if the one has become 'spacey' with wing replacement, there may have been some change to the build equilibrium . . . C.

Thanks Colin. I actually can't think of their function! Unless you let your kids jump up & down on the bonnet and don't want the tube to hit the under bonnet paintwork!! 😄😄

Hello People, Just as a little update; I visited & had the underside of my 1970 saloon closely inspected in Northfleet, Kent yesterday. On the basis that an e-mail correspondance the owner agreed that a non-body off chassis member replacement is 'do-able' (at last!). As a result of those inspections, whilst establishing the front body mounts needed remaking too, certainly his estimate went up, but not too scarily. The presence of at least two Jaguars and a rather nice Corvette Stingray as clients, his reassurance that they will look after the car and, if I wished, help to attend to a couple of other niggles I still experience since last renovation, persuaded me to sign on the line with him - plus - will be done before this Christmas coming . . . . (August, in fact!). If anyone in the South East not being able to justify the cost of a body-off chassis member replacement wishes to privately ask me which company IS happy to do this, I'm happy to divulge. Best, Colin

So, DJB, the across top panel support bar meets (touches/ is flush to) the top bonnet centre panel? Or does it sit away from it by small margin? I don't have a bad fit at the bulkhead, though. And have had many good hours faffing with the new bonnet cones. It's odd, the bonnet having had new Rimmer wings fitted, does, in its entirety, seem fractionally wider than it was! The catches do seem to want to 'pop' open somewhat (pothole problem?!?!) 😃 Playtime again . . . ! Thanks All

Chaps, After recent renovation, I'm still fiddling with bonnet cone placement:- this is NOT the issue, though! I note that of the two main transverse support bar foam 'gaskets' or, perhaps, anti-vibration pads that were wedged behind the bar - between it and the top bonnet panel, one is no longer functioning as such. First question:- were they always meant to be there from new and, I suppose, is there a 'correct'/ideal support bar-to-panel gap?! Pics below! A very piffling thing - but both were tight when she went off for remedial works! Best, C

Oh! Many thanks for that Danmi!! I thought it was at the very least, a bit puny!! 😁

Thanks Colin. My ignorance will kick in again, here:- the 'tab' when measured against the length if the top edge of that outrigger seems really weedy. I assume that, body-off, the entirety of that edge would be seam welded (?) onto the rail - but here, for a body-on fit, one only has that tiny tab to secure the rigger top??!🤔 Wow! Continued thanks - Best, Colin

Thanks Both, You have indeed both helped me with this before and I took a screenshot of the diagrams - very helpful. These tabs . . . you describe they fit over the top of the main rail and fold back in order to make the weld joint. Dos the body tub allow sufficient space to pass that through? I just assumed (there I go again!) the tub would be tight down on the rails and not allow any passage of 2-3mm steel. But if it does - great!! As you can tell, I don't jack the car up and crawl under it as often as I once did! Cheers, C.

Hi Gents, Has anyone knowledge of - or own - any Practical Classic type magazine (or anything I can cross-reference) featuring a body-on Herald chassis renewal, please? If so, I'd be very pleased indeed to see it photographed/scanned - or indeed if it can be spared, sold & posted to me!! Thanks for any assistance & thoughts and with thanks to those good forum members who have previously issued diagrams-pics from various sources. Am currently talking to a mainly Morris Minor restorer who has asked about the inability to get to weld the rigger top of the main rails. Whilst I understand there are tabs that can be fabricated and seen measuremented (new,word) diagrams, in my eyes, they still make it look as if the 'tabs' affix to the top of that inaccessible rail?!?! Unless the fabricated tab is welded to the underside of the rails?? Anyway - clearly I am misunderstanding what I have seen to date! Really need to see & read step by step procedure! Thanks, Chaps. Colin.

OK folks; update. I have eased the 'wedge'. Nice strong spring. Side of the wedge seemed to have a hint of a burr edge - and even clean & silicone lubed occasionally jammed in. I've done my best. Fiddled with its positioning on the 'B'post and really screwed up the closure (lack of), but finally got a half decent, non-burst close. But there are definite front hinge & fixings adjustments needing to be made . . . Will check the passenger door's catch, too. Still don't really see what it does - sorry! Picture or drawing required!! Best, Colin.

Hi All:- yes, I have to slam the door shut. I roll the window down & bang it shut from the sitting position. Thank you very much for the pictures - certainly cleaning the spring (fuel etc) and a light lubing will - if it's still in there - ease its operation. At what point, if one pulls, to ease it, can the spring (that doesn't look very strong) become useless !!??!! Not that I plan on pulling it that hard! I'm struggling (in my head) to understand how it works; its function), but am guessing until I can get to it that the profile of the door striker plate, where it changes angle, has at least a big part of this. Oh for a bagfull of relevant spares!! As usual, thanks all😀 Best, C.

Chaps - not sure anyone responded to this 'Q' of mine! Any ideas, please? "Extra Q:- is what you can see in my picture the thing 'in', or 'out'??" Colin :- any chance of a photo showing the catch aperture where that sprung slider wedge comes from, please? And, did you say that on removal it all falls apart (bad move), or I could trap itcall in folded card were I to lift from the car - make sure spring doesn't escape etc. . . Am thinking easier to free off when off car! Am also thinking car sprayer may have removed, lost the gubbins and just shoved back on car . . . Best, C.

Hi Steve P, I'm in Herne Bay, North Kent coast. So there's the consideration of the initial appointment to view underneath on a hydraulic ramp to discuss the what & how; and then if agreed, the when & at that point how the heck I get back to Herne Bay from Surrey (wifey no drivey!). But I'm more than happy to receive contact details, if you think it might be a 'goer' 😃 Best, C.

Hi Pete. You are spot-on. And mist parts which DO require lubing, DO get lubed! In 35 yrs ownership, including when it has had extensive daily use (usually the point at which regular lubing falls off through general living tiredness!) I've never realised this part should actually move, even though I occasionally used to lightly oil the catches until I decided I didn't like continually ruining my clothing as I squeezed in!! If it doesn't respond to lube & manipulation, I'll let you all know. She's had 1 half renovation & 1 more recent major restoration, both of which could've screwed the catches up, for all I know . . . To be continued . . . ??😃😃

And it's basically a wedge, then . . .

Hey chaps - Colin, Paul et al; brilliant, thanks. Colin, that photo tellsme pretty much exactly what it's all about now. And I know exactly what you mean about dismantling to gain understanding! So conventional wisdom is currently saying don't remove the catch - guessing that's the point at which you can lose the spring's connected integrity - so I think my first gambit will be loosening it off in situ.. Many thanks for all your collective assistance (especially the visual, Colin). Best, C.

My synopsis:- so, that little part is nothing more than an up-down wedge, in effect? Just thinking of the door catch profile, too . .

Thanks, Pete. I understand that description better. Now to ease it all off. Thanks a lot, Chaps. Best, Colin. PS still seeking someone with working expertise to work on chassis, body-on. Still no luck here in South East . . .

Sorry bout typos. Typing too quickly & fat fingers. Extra Q:- is what you can see in my picture the thing 'in', or 'out'??

Thanks for the advice, Colin. It's just supposed to slide horizontally in & out? Will it help to ease the catch a little bit loose?? Cheers, C.

OK chaps! Thanks. Well, certainly mine seems solid, in the position as shown. I didn't understand Peye's description of its operation - I'd have to have door appatatus and the catch off the car and offer them up together as if in ooeratiin (off car in other words!). If remove the body catch, will I lose the blind captive plate behind (always a worry with me - same with the forward door hinges; I'm always tempted to try & remove whatever, but leaving a nut or screw in place in one of the receiving threads . . . ) And yes, I have had the door fling itself open. Quite scary . . Thanks again,

Chaps:- can I slightly alter the convo, whilst still alluding to door catches? Can't recall if I saw the query somewhere in the Forum or on FBook; my driver door catch is shown in the photo. Someone said the 'horn' (bottom right) is sprung loaded and should move freely. Why (e.g. what does it do?), and, what if it doesn't? (Some will recall my on-going, continuous issues with doors not shutting nicely) Thanks in advance . . . 😉 Best, C.

If I recall, I looked up under the n/s rear of the car when renewing the fuel lines & looked at what I think I've bought shown in the pics there and those supports were above the rear outriggers - there or thereabouts?!

Chaps - here my (now dried) and laid out first 6 outriggers & side rails. Probably photo'd in very bright sun, so apologies for any lack of detail. Have thrown what I believe to be support brackets in the mix - not sure how many there actually are - but last time I was under, at least one had been eaten at! 😃