Colin

Thanks, Josef! All suggestions welcomed! Best, C.

Thanks Pimp my Vit . . . . Yep! Those Spire clips will be there when you put them there!! Nice looking renovation, there - anti-drum material even in the roof - Nice! With my headlining having been replaced, I'm literally at the 'poking-holes-in-the-lining' stakes and would rather not get it wrong! As Colin said earlier, if I can locate one of the suitable holes, a rawlplug element would probably be required in my case, as I don't suppose for a minute there are any clips located at the holes! Cheers, C.

Hey Colin! Thanks for that! As I entitled the post - it's a really silly enquiry. Great photo, though - makes it abundantly clear where I need to go! No-one yet has told me if any of those 3 holes are threaded. My hunch is they probably were - otherwise my Mick Dolphin button 'hook' would surely not have a threaded screw through it!?! Of course, with headlining in already, I'm loathe to poke a hole through it not being certain . . . !! 😉 Best, C.

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Bonnet springs in place!

Car on level ground . . . No jacks or stands employed! 😉

Cheers, People! I rarely take all bolts out of caged brackets without leaving one loose in. Scared of losing them. Pleased to say no Scumbag has been at their housings. Only me who's fiddled (oh - and two previous restorers!

Funnily enough, Josef, I wondered if that might be best done with the door latched. Pete H & Pete Lewis :- I've never tapped a thread in my life!! But would try to keep a 'marker' bolt or similar in a caged unit so I don't completely lose the things in their hidden locations. I assume they (all hinge-to-door & door-to-scuttle) are plates with 2 or 3 threaded hole cut? Not individual nuts ? C.

Ah ha! Thanks! Yes, I don't think I'm going to be drilling any 'caged' or 'captive'(?) access holes! I noted some of the nuts were pointy-ended - no doubt intended to allow an easier 'find-the-nut' situation!!?!

So is it only the hinge pin and pin channel which weats - is this what we're saying? 'C' washers? They are what? 😉

Lovely, chaps. Successful:- 2nd time round! Best, C.

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Hi Gary, Thanks for the pdf For some reason it won't open for me (message about content restriction!?!). Might you please try again? Or e-mail it to me; colinwinn1@hotmail.co.uk? Thanks, Kind regards, C.

Thanks Colin! Good advice. I shall pluck up more courage to poke around to locate those holes by feel!

Having cleaned and where nec renewed connections, I tucked the bonnet front wiring into a commercial, pre-split flexible conduit and wrapped it with self-amalgamating rubber tape (B&Q). Will help prevent any potential movement chafing and slow atmosphere ingress (& therefore connection oxidation). Shame I broke the 2 side cable supports off (but they've been bent back & forth dozens of times anyway!). Now need to remake those before other issues! Thanks for all help.

Chaps: collectively . . . Many thanks ('push notifications not working still!). For clarification (my red herring, sorry); 'tis only the passenger q'light vent which actually appears twisted. But I consider that, a seperate issue! Re driver's door, I have often thought the'bubble' seals to be incorrect - I am really grateful for the pointer to the correct product - that, in itself, will make life so much easier, I am sure! It's always seemed to 'bounce back', not shut after these were fitted (1st partial reno, decades ago). I also think I will invest in a set of new hinges. It is simply impossible that after 50 years of yanking, slamming and bashing that they are not worn. As usual, chaps, grateful. Best, C.

Colin L; you are, I think, saying none of that combination of holes is internally threaded to receive my button threaded bolt?? From your photo I can't see that it would even be possible to get behindthem to strategically place a fixing piece (spire nut etc)? I may have to leave it! I can't justify taking a new headlining apart for the sake of a coat button!! I'll have to hang my coat on the aerial, like the others!! 😉

Here I go . . . (😉); Firstly, I fully accept that I should have gone back to the chap to whom I gave my Herald Saloon to renovate. After renovation, one of the main 'gains' I was hoping for was a better door fit. On successful door skin replacement, he sent me a video showing how easily the door shut (roof and all trim off at this point). Nice easy click shut. I was delighted! Of course, I hoped that would remain the case, once everything had been refitted. It turned out not to be the case. Very sensible that this chap was becoming VERY tetchy about wanting to 'finish' off the car to the level I really wanted, I felt that the detail elements remaining and outstanding were things I could probably do over time and I was glad that she was metal where metal needed to be and with a good paint coat. He even would have had me drive it from his premises without correctly functioning lights and, particularly, indicators! So, since the draught excluder has been refitted, the rubber check-strap unit refitted, neither door opens easily or shuts nicely. I rely on window down, arm out and pull in hard from outside, effectively. I have tried myself, on cloths and two trolley jacks, to adjust, retighten, adjust, retighten all the variables in the equation but still can't get a nice shut. I think I could improve this if I had two pairs of hands available to me, but I have to accept this I do not have. Before my getting to it, the front pillar was hitting the rear of the rain channel. But that affected the horizontal fit lines. After my first fiddle, when pulled 'to', my driver door has taken to just hitting the lower rear door shut aperture, but is a decent fit at the rain channel area. However, it won't settle on the door catches - the rear of the door is clearly too far back and just slicing the face of the door catch and the top of that catch, has, over the years, been worn down - so there were clearly issues in the past, too. Neither does there seem to be the extent of door catch adjustment I would like. I have bought some new door hinge gaskets - they seem very thin compared to whatever has been used is concerned. But the correct gaskets, would, I think, make the door vertical orientation correct. I have of course, been unable to adjust all the elements in this equation, tighten everything I have loosened off, then walk away to try it. What I did tends to loosen off - but I can't tighten and hold the thing in position whilst doing that! Of course, all of this is doing nothing for the paintwork (paintwork that Club Royal Blue spray cans now seems too dark for - another minor gripe). Would it be recommended for me (50 year old car) to change the driver's side door hinges - they are bound to be worn - AND are there any other suggestions anyone can make in order to make a decent fit? I could, for example, ask if there is a 'thinner' draught strip round the door aperture. This was replaced on first reno works decades ago. Maybe the original was not so substantive?? Cheers!! C. P.S. the door pillar on the passenger door seems twisted. Is that just a matter of adjustment or has it been bent (dropped in the workshop?).

Oh! That sounds problematic, given the headlining was renewed and is in situ - shan't be able to get behind it - needed to 'feel' the entry screw hole and pierce the headlining to insert the button threaded bolt.

Bloomin' 'eck, guys . . . I turn the 'notifications' on but have missed most of the first 50% of your replies! It's clear there have been many permutations, over the years. I can see the temptation (for me, too), of boarding the back of the aperture over, so as not to be able to see a hessian finish (ashes & sackcloth etc!). As the dropping of the rear seat only requires unscrewing two lower nuts of studs (quick, if you place a spacer on the long-ish threads), it is/would be really quick to drop the rear seat to slide summat large in . . . nice photo, Colin L. Colin L & Paul H:- again many thanks for the photos of button coat hook screw locations. Clearly it is NOT a captive nut as I thought. Just a threaded raised 'bump'. I shall need to do some gentle pushing and prodding to find the screw hole - Colin L - I can see your photo; shows two large holes and one smaller to the left. I assume you think my button screw should fit into the left hand, smaller threaded hole? Best, C.

Nevertheless, very entertaining! 😃

Thanks Johny, It's clear to me now that such a finish was standard. I was thinking of boarding, too! C.

Thanks, Trigolf! It dawned on me when re-covering that it was almost like skimping and somewhat unfinished!! C.

Gents:- 2 things:- 1) My 1970 1147 saloon car's recently been renovated. The company concerned missed putting back the coat hook that sat just over the nearside rear side window and the roof has had a new headlining. So now I can't figure out where the receiving captive nut is, along the window's length or how far up - I have been unable to detect its location by pressing/poking with my finger! Can anyone tell me/does anyone have a roof currently not installed who can measure and report back where it should be located, please? 2) Before renovation, the car was covered over in a barn for a decade. Recently, my dear wife helped me strip the old, mickey-nibbled hessian off the back of the rear bench seat and having bought some similar & appropriate hessian, stitch the new into position. In 35 years of ownership, I have only ever known the seat to have this hessian visibly exposed, especially when seen from within the boot, of course. But it did cause me to wonder if this was the original finish for said seat? Is everyone else's seat finished with this hessian? Or am I missing a vinyl back covering or similar?? There. I said these were daft matters!! All thoughts gratefully received as usual 🙂 Best, Colin.

Great information, Colin - I use the small flat screwdriver method - but a correct tool to do a job is always a bonus! 😉 C.