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Colin

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Everything posted by Colin

  1. Colin - ALL the original veneer is there (although I whizzed softly through some to the sides of the ashtray slot . . . I went through to the substrate - just . . . and carefully hand painted the veneer markings back - less than .5 sq cm either side - the board itself is deffo not flat . . so 'flatting' an unvarnished board, or after the first couple of lacquer passes (which is what I did, to let the lacquer get into the striations and shrinkings of 50 year old veneer) - is a bit of a misnomer! Best, C.
  2. Thanks! Yes, I didn't lose all the wrinkles (it's not a Roller!) :-)
  3. Chaps:- Just thought I'd update and 'Top & Tail' my speedo/dashboard trials & tribulations with these pics. Previous comments showed the declining state of the dashboard. Herewith my pics of having picked off all the old varnish/lacquer, some judicious sanding (VERY VERY thin veneer used, I discovered!!) and after having lightly sanded the first couple of lacquer spraying passes, they show what I consider to be the finished result (in other words, I'm not doing any more to it!), not polished. All badges will be buffed and replaced 😉 Grateful as usual to all for their help and advices . . . Cheers, Colin.
  4. Ben Caswell - thanks for the link! Will screenshot & print section out to add to the history of the car! Best, C.
  5. TriGolf:- Very sensible!! Pete:- I'm so glad you shared that you don'r iron your underpants. I was hoping for a suitable space to endorse that apathy - me neither (or my wife!) Remiss of me not to have said "Happy Christmas" to you all and to thanks you for all your help. Having stupidly watched the Magnificent 7 on TV, I'm deffo lining work of some kind to do over the next "festive" period!! Cheers to All. C.
  6. It's going to be sanded and sprayed with clear lacquer, Pete! But yes! Love The Repair Shop! Remind me about the ironing trick! C.
  7. Josef - deffo! Loxleys of Orpington. That's staying!! Best, C.
  8. Chaps:- it's OUT!! Many, many, thanks to you for guiding me through the last (for me) dodgy stages of that process. Years ago, it started cracking around the interior heater flap knob which has always been stiff (very) at one point in its movement. Everywhere else it has also started to separate from its veneer. Pics. Cheers, Colin.
  9. Many thanks! Just dug the grommet out of the bulkhead. And just pulled the 'join' apart a bit. Clearly this has been done before! I'll undo that 'join' - then I should be pretty much there! Keep you posted!! Thanks for your minute to minute guiding. Gaining a lot of confidence as I go!! Just never want to start an activity I can't fixed!! Best, C.
  10. If either of you/anybody has a clue how to undo that nut, I'd be well pleased!! I could take the entire lot from the engine bay back through the cabin when the rest of the dash comes off then disassemble on the bench - but I don't think that cable 'join' in thd engine bay could be drawn back through the bulkhead . . . I don't think it'll go through though. I may have to try this - thd nut looks inaccessible to me from under the dash right now - just been trying. Not enough room round the back of the nut for pliers, adjustable, ring or any other type of spanner! At least I could always enlarge the bulkhead cable hole to take the entire cable back through. Then simply use a bigger blanking plug on reassembly?
  11. Blast! It's a nut, isn't it, on the back of the choke. Darn . . . C.
  12. Thanks chaps:- please see pics.Inside cabin shows knob (yes, has sprung loaded knob-taking-off hole. But as can be seen, no chrome bezel to unscrew. Then, the dash underside view shows it looking as ic the only removal option is disonnection from carb and pull back through. Fly in the ointment is (engine bay view), some kind of outer cable sheath 'repair(?) that I can only hope will come through the cabin dash hole . . . Am I right to think this is the only route forward in the case of its fitting in this circumstance? Best, C. PS Colin:- pic of the speedo out of dash. In v good nick. I mistakenly undid the gauge needle fittings and spade connectors. Did 'em back up under the dash in the car. When it was out I re-referred to my photo brfore dismantling and have re-positioned. As far as I can see, neither side of the gauge connections touches its metal body. Both are isolated by the shielding washers, body side of the tower nut. Correct??
  13. Speedo out - Bingo! Thanks. Err . . . how do I deal with the choke cable?? C.
  14. Hi Colin. Thanks. Just going in again! Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!) Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! Best, C.
  15. Hi Colin. Thanks. Just going in again! Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!) Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! Best, C.
  16. Thanks Colin; (Again 'notification on' not alerting me to your reply - soz) Just thinking overnight . . . I guess the other way, is, having marked up all the cabling on the back of the speedo and with every other dash element dismantled, remove all cabling connections and lamps from the speedo and take the dash off with speedo still fixed in? Then take off on bench . . . Not that I have done it this way so far . . . !! Thanks for the advice - I'm at the stage where it is looking as if it'll move forward into the cabin at its top but still reluctant at the bottom. However, I still have the top (voltage stabiliser?) wiring unit cabling to mark up and remove- and that might make things easier . . . Thanks again! Best, C.
  17. Hi folks, I'm in the process of removing the dashboard - the lacquer or varnish has cracked badly, peeling away in several places and needs to be sanded back and lacquer renewed. Everything's straight forward - but of course the speedo must be drawn out and there's a lot going on on the back of it and the fuel gauge. I have to say I don't have much working space, so I'm squeezing through a half-open door and twisting and turning up and under the dash to get to all the bits. I'm at the stage where the bracket fittings are out and most of the push-in, pull-out light bulb fittings are off and out, fuel gauge connections and earth is off its connections and screw threads, and am labelling stuff up as I go. And I was sensible enough to have a pic or two on my mobile of how it was before removal for reference. It mostly seems loose and ready to come out into the cabin . . . . so I can then get to the connections on the top of the speedo . . . but seems to be baulking at the bottom. I am guessing this is because the fuel gauge must be removed?? Can anybody confirm? Tiny nuts on tiny screw threads either side of the gauge unit, by the looks?? Is there any mileage in my unbolting the dash stay (getting in the way of my chubby hands and increasingly porky bod being able to twist and access the things)? Christmas cheers to All. C.
  18. Hi Colin,

    Reading your Latest TSSC article, I thought I'd comment on the lamentable presence/availability/willingness of artists to produce car or 'thing' related artwork.

    I've illustrated all my life and have used my work to augment my (ex) graphic and magazine design design work.

    When in Burgundy, running painting (art-working) holidays, I was visited by a classic car owner - now my now chum - from Geneva, he turning up in his Coupe - and another gent who stayed with another fetching original paint scheme two-tone lavender Coupe, once owned by a member of the Peugeot family apparantly.

    In addition to his Coupe, my chum has around another 5 classics cars. But to say "thanks" for coming to visit and show me their cars (my Herald was scruffy and in dire need of renovation at the time - but a Herald nonetheless), I took to painting his primrose yellow Coupe on a half-glazed french roof tile - just because I could - and to remind him of his visit to me in France.

    That has escalated since my move back to the UK and I have painted several more of his (and one o his sons's) classics, on a now diminishing stock of french roof tiles.

    Now the point is this:- every artist will tell you that the hours they put into an individual and bespoke artwork could barely be charged for at a sensible commercial hourly rate, otherwise the works could never fall into the 'affordable' category!

    I tended to state that the tile paintings took me 10 hours' solid work. But very often they took/take more; one needs to prepare the surface prior to painting and protect the image afterward etc.. So, if one put a decent hourly rate on that, you can see that if one was touting for business in a living way, there'd be few who would think the end product was worth the money!

    I also took to producing PC generated outline-work illustrations of various cars I liked the look of - again, a different discipline, but for me not altogether the quickest or most enjoyable . . . 

    Prior to this method, I'd have used draughtsman's technical pen on acetate film or ink board. But those days are long gone!

    Enjoy the Pics!

     

    The Three Triumpheers.jpg

    Triumph Herald Coupe on Tile.jpg

    Bobs Mini on Tile.jpeg

    Bob’s Prefect d’size.jpeg

    Sean’s MGB Paint.jpg

    Conglom Cars.jpg

  19. 😉 It's cold enough not to have to worry the fridge!!
  20. I wondered who would be the Eagle-eyed sleuth!! 😃
  21. Thanks to all for every suggestion made - and listened to! Just to 'top & tail' my sudden loss of headlights, I'll recap:- Very simply, the under-front-bonnet wiring (sides & headlights) had God-awful Earth connections. Of course I cleaned & re-made any dodgy looking connections, de-tangled them from previous quick fixes etc., but as soon as that whole Earth connection was removed, cleaned, re-made as necessary, all was back to functioning perfectly. The dash switch circumstance - the one I had hoped would be the quick-fix cause, wasn't the cause. But I did get a switch from Mick Dolphin which had very much less use (mine had pull position 2 corner bakelite broken off from use), to use in preference for a long-awaited Rimmer replacement. I would warn folk regarding these:- if used, I would recommend cabling is tinned before fitting and tightening - I tried with cable just tight twisted ends and screwed up tight, that cabling was cut through, because, as far as I can see, the straight cut sides of the tightening screw goes into a slightly cupped end drilling on the inside of the terminal - acts as a cutter! Anyway, it's now a 'spare' on the shelf. So, I bought lengths of pre-slit plastic flexible conduit and tucked the front cabling into it and sealed ends with self-amalgamating rubber tape - keep the atmos out. Checked it all still worked. All good. As can be seen, it's a much neater conglomerate than having a bunch if straggly wires kicking around. Had to make and rivet new check strips (sadly I don't weld), the old having broken on bending. Now to take the remainder of the dash out, sand and re-lacquer! Cheers, All. C.
  22. Not a scoobie! What does its reverse side look like??
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