Darren Groves

If you move the tank around you will disturb sediment, but as long as you have a decent fuel filter fitted it should be fine. I have a chrome/glass cleanable filter on the rubber pipe in the boot on the fuel pick-up, this stops any debris as soon as it leaves the tank so protects the fuel pump as well as the carbs and is easily accessible for cleaning. In addition you could take the opportunity whilst the tank is out of draining and cleaning, www.frost.co.uk sell various products to clean, prep and even seal the tank if you feel the need. The second article that Casper has linked to is mine, I can't tell you how much easier it is to remove & refit the tank without the drain plug. If you get carried away and decide to have the drain removed, be very careful. There are obvious risks in welding fuel tanks so give it to a professional if you're the slightest bit unsure, mine hadn't had fuel in it for a very long time so decided it was safe, but even so I was still a little nervous when doing it.

Steve, Take off your door card and take a look at the 3 screws that hold the mechanism in place (the part the handle connects to), the 3 holes in the mechanism are slotted so if the whole thing has slipped forward it won't be operating the lock fully. Loosen the screws, pull the mechanism backwards, tighten screws and try again. This happens to my drivers door fairly regularly. Worth a try. Darren

I always used NGK BP6ES, then changed to NGK BPR6ES after Megajolt was fitted.

Thanks Pete

I am in the process of rebuilding a pair of HS4's, unusually they still have their identifying tags on and they are AUD665 spec, which according to the Burlen website are standard jet type (not waxstat). The rebuild kits for these have a standard throttle disc, but the ones in there currently are different (as photo). Is this butterfly from a Waxstat spec carb and presumably it won't matter if I fit a standard throttle disc?

James Paddock sell a tool for this job: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=tool

The bolt should a 5/16" x 1/2", so if you have 10mm past the washer, sounds about right.

Decompression Plates: http://www.ferriday.co.uk/decompression-plates/

I wouldn't fit two head gaskets, recipe for earlier failure if it works at all. There is a company that sell specially made plates to reduce compression ratio but can't seem to find them on the web at the moment, will keep looking. Higher compression will be down to the head being skimmed heavily over the years, so it would be that what would need changing not the short engine. Any good engineers should be able to measure the depth of the head to give an indication of how much has been taken off in the past, you'd need to take it off of course.

The £2574 is for a full engine, a short engine (block section only) isn't an option from the club shop. On page 6 you can buy just a cylinder head. All the club shop engine/head options are for reconditioning your own unit, not exchange (except 1500).

The pdf is the price to members, you'd pay more if a non-member.

That's where the TSSC engines come from I believe.

Engines supplied by the TSSC - http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/2015%20TSSC%20Club%20Shop%20Catalogue.pdf - see page 5

Easy job, though I've always done it with the gearbox out of the car, but from memory access should be fine after removing gearbox tunnel. Remove prop, take out split pin, undo castellated nut, remove flange and prize out the seal and replace with new one....

I used the blue Polybush kit, which used to be sold by the Club Shop, fitted some years ago now but still fine. No idea if Superflex is better or not I'm afraid, but happy with what I had.

2 days to until the next North Devon club night......

Have a read of this:http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive

Ah, ok......one of these is a cheap tool for the job: http://r.ebay.com/BtS1LI

I'll PM you later about them....

I'm pretty sure I use a 36mm socket and an impact wrench, it's by far the easiest way. You won't do it with a spanner, maybe a long breaker bar. If you are not using an impact wrench, then hopefully the engine is still in the car as the amount of leverage needed to loosen is normally substantial! With the engine out you need to support it and stop it turning as your trying to undo. Good luck....

For engine spares I use http://www.gbhspares.co.uk/Start00.html one because he's local to me, but mainly because he has an incredible amount of NOS items and anything he has remade is of good quality. My replacement camshaft was from Newman Cams via one of the Triumph Traders. If you're unsure of what camshaft you want, then I'd say speak to one of the traders who actually build and race the engines, they can speak from experience.

I would think the M25 East group would be your closest as they meet in Rainham & Dartford - http://tsscm25east.webs.com/ I would say Quillers are anything but paradise. Be careful if you're going to use them.

Got round to re-timing the camshaft today and really quite happy with the results. She now pulls well from low revs, hills that were previously a bit hard going now not a problem and generally feels more willing and flexible, this is what I was hoping for when I decided to do the modifications in the first place....if only I had been given the correct spec for the camshaft in the first place. Also increased the plug gaps to 1mm (Megajolt Ignition) and added some Millers Multishot, so will see if all this has improved things in the middle of June when I'm back on the Rolling Road for a Power Run.

It was a great turn out to the very first of the new North Devon Club Nights earlier this month. It's just 2 weeks until the next one, so let's see if we can get even more people and cars there this time. Remember you don't have to be a TSSC member to come along, all Triumph owners welcome.

Sounds a bit high....It'll be the voltage regulator most likely, they are available, lots on eBay (assuming you have a Lucas ACR type). Never replaced one myself, so not sure how easy it is. There are uprated ACR's available on eBay and from most of the usual traders, just make sure you the cable back to the battery is rated correctly if you're going above standard. Single cable on an existing loom (if the same as Herald) is 25amp, so utilise the second large terminal on the back of the unit to share the load.