Darren Groves

4 weeks today, you coming?

Hi Rich, Assuming they are the same basic design as a Herald, then they are the same, it may just be that 40+ years in one position the frame/base has a slight twist in it where they join. Don't forget that on the seat runner you have 2 holes to adjust height at front, and on the actual seat base there are 2 holes forward/back. If you need to angle the seat away from the b-post, then on the seat base use the forward hole on the outer side and the rearward hole on the inner side.

Rich, All the black rotors with the rivets are rubbish, even the ones with Lucas on. Go to Distributor Doctor and order one of those, they are the only ones on the market that are reliable. When I had the Aldon on my Dizzy I removed the original earth as it's no longer needed. I always used the coil connections for mine and never had an issue.

Poor quality Rotor Arm (Black one with rivet)? Could swap out for red Distributor Doctor one.

Peter, You might want to watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO_uE3M7FVg The panel shown in the video can be bought from Chic Doig: http://r.ebay.com/D3Fiuu Good luck Darren

Pete, Canley website recommends not fitting the thicker anti-roll bar if not doing the swing spring conversion as it promoted understeer. http://www.canleyclassics.com/suspension-steering-and-brakes/swing-spring-conversion-kits

Is there anyone from your local group that could have a look, sometimes a fresh approach can uncover something. Have you checked fuel supply? Weak fuel pump, collapsed rubber fuel hose, fuel line blocked somewhere, tank breather blocked...just some ideas.

Rich, where are you? I have a Gunson Gastester which you're more than welcome to borrow if you're anywhere near North Devon. You could also pop down your local MoT station to see if they'll let you pop the car on their gas analyser, at least you know their equipment will be accurate. I have used a combination of the Gunson ColourTune and Gastester and generally find that if you set with the ColourTune then it's too rich when looking at the Gastester. Mine has been a bit of a headache, but then nothing is standard so I have a whole heap of other variables. Alternatively find a local Rolling Road, then you'll be able to see what's happening at more than just tick-over and revs at no load.

I fitted all mine dry, but one did leak slightly. I removed and refitted a new one using this: http://r.ebay.com/Qep2w9 didn't leak after that. I think dry should be fine if all the mating surfaces are clean and free from any damage, otherwise a thin smear of a good quality sealant will do it.

It came out as one unit, but you have to get the back very high, it wasn't that easy. We ended up taking off the suspension and cross-member to gain some extra space, which was fine as we planned to remove anyway. Now the engine bay is painted I wanted to see if there are other ways of refitting. What happens on a clutch change, is it standard practice to remove the engine & box? I did Google quickly, seems it can be done separately but is a bit of a fiddle.

When refitting an Engine & Gearbox back into a Stag, is it best to fit as one unit, or engine first then gearbox or gearbox then engine.

On the one I done last year, it was a 1200 with Stanpart NOS wings and even they didn't match the curvature of the doors. So you just have to use a bit of manhandling to get into shape....

Is there anything wrong with the valves that they need replacing? You could have them re-cut if you're worried, it will be cheaper than buying new and just as effecting providing they are not too far gone.

Thanks for the replies, will try to track down that article.

During a chassis rebuild, is there any reason to try and strengthen in any way? I know Chic Doig does heavy duty siderails, but is there anything else worth doing? Just an idle thought....

They overlap as in the second photo.

Your closest Triumph Specialist is only in Corby, see here: http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/contactus.htm Or use these drawing to check positioning of the outriggers: Chassis Drawings

Double check your wiring where the control box used to be: 1. The thin black earth cable is not needed and can be disregarded. 2. The thin Brown/Green & thin Brown/Yellow cable should be joined, this is the connection between the small field terminal on the Alternator and the dash warning light. 3. This should leave you with 5 thicker cables, 2 x Brown/Blue (Lights), 1 x Brown/Yellow (Alternator) & 2 x Brown (Solenoid & Horn), these need joining together. Every Lucas ACR Alternator I've ever worked with has only has 3 terminals on the back, the 2 larger ones (3/8") which feed back to the battery, and one smaller (1/4") which goes back to the warning light on the dash. You should be able to use a standard Lucas connector like this one: The additional wire is to do with the output of the alternator. The standard wire on a Herald loom will only be good for 25amp, so if the alternator has a greater output then use the second large terminal to run another cable back to the battery. To test the Alternator you could start the car without the alternator connected and connect a multi-meter to each of the terminals, if you get a reading of 12v or more then you know it's charging. Hope that helps.

Depends what thermostat you have fitted. Needs to be set a few degrees above the opening temp of the stat, but you might want to tweak a bit once you have it in use.

Trevor Collett is the Specials Secretary (and my cousin-in-law), he'd be delighted to hear from you and maybe get some details of your car for a feature.

There's a simple calculation when decided what rated cable and fuse to use on any electrical installation, Watt divided by Voltage, therefore if your fan was say 120w, divided by 12v gives 10amp (in reality you'd probably want a 15amp), if it were on a 24v installation then it would be 5amp, you get the idea. There are definitely 2 camps on whether electric fans are a good modification or not. I went to electric, but have now gone back to mechanical. There's an interesting article on the Canley's website: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/overheating Personal choice at the end of the day.

I have the same tyre on 4.5j steel wheels, though I believe 165's are better suited to 5j, 6j sounds a bit too wide really. There is a selection of useful utilities on this website: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/ however it's not actually working at the moment, but keep trying. Fitting the same size tyre on a different width wheel does affect the rolling radius, so even though we have the same size tyre the rolling radius will differ, which of course affects your speedo reading. Tracking should be set with all for seats loaded with around 70/75kgs. If you search this forum it has been explained by our resident guru Pete Lewis....

I have some of that!

Can anyone recommend a good glue to attach the P-Seal on the screen frame (the seal between the screen frame and quarter light). Can't remember what I used last time but it didn't work very well....

You need to get in contact with John Bonnett, you can see the thread here: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/9-aluminium-bodied-gt4/page-6&do=findComment&comment=2853