Darren Groves

My first Halfords battery would constantly let me down, but when I took it in it read 12.1v so they wouldn't change it. Put it back on the car, left the sidelights on overnight and took it back next day where it read <12v so the same guy who'd I'd seen the day before swapped it without question.....bit of a pointless exercise really but got there in the end. The replacement battery lasted for many years. Glad you got your one sorted.

Andrew, You had a problem because you fitted one of the cheap units, had you bought an Aldon or Lumenition kit it would have been fine and you'd be singing the praises of electronic ignition I'm sure. Lots of posts on forums about poor quality condensers & rotor arms too, so regardless of whether you have electronic or conventional ignition fitting cheap inferior products will likely cause problems. I had well over 10 years of faultless service from my Aldon Ignitor and would recommend them. I went a step further and fitted Megajolt a couple of years ago, timed off the crank, no distributor to worry about and if I want to adjust the timing I plug my laptop into the ECU..... If you're happy with points etc. and it sorted your problem, that's great, personally I'd have sent the cheap unit back and got a refund then fitted something decent, but each to their own. Darren

Their test is just to put a multimeter on it and take a voltage reading (it was in my case anyway), so if you want a replacement make sure it's reading under 12v as anything over and they will tell you there's nothing wrong with it.

Yes, they are cheap for a reason. Spend more on a quality item, support your club shop and you will be happy with the results I'm sure.

Welcome back Dan, look forward to your updates

The clue is in your post 'Cheap Electronic Ignition', buy one of the quality items such as Aldon or Lumenition and they are fit & forget. My Aldon ignitor gave over 10 years of faultless service and I would say most people that fit these have similar experiences. The others are cheap for a reason.

Same here, had a strap type propshaft which I was balanced twice but still had vibration, changed to a solid type and all was fine. My current propshaft if a sliding type from Dave Mac Propshafts, costs less money than you might think.

Probably worn synchro ring. Give Mike Papworth a call, he can talk you through options: 024 76644499/07

The connection on the new alternator is more what I'd expect to see. The Lucas ACR plugs are widely available from various places: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1218 Just change for one of these.

How sure are you it's Carb related? Have you been through your ignition system to ensure Plugs, Points, Condenser, Coil & Dizzy Cap are all in good shape? How old is the fuel in the car, if the car has been laid up for a while then you may need some fresh stuff. I see you are in Newton Abbot, this coming Wednesday is Club Night at the Star Inn, Liverton so must be close to you. The Devon area are extremely friendly and welcoming, so why not take your car down there and I'm sure someone will take a quick look. See here for more details: http://www.tssc-devon.org.uk/#!contact-us/c1sbo

Haven't been available for many years. You may get very lucky and find some NOS on eBay or at auto-jumbles, otherwise you'll have to repair what you have or find a scrap bonnet where these are salvageable.

The space shuttle's Thermal Protection System, or heat shield, contains more than 30,000 tiles that are constructed essentially of sand. All of the tiles are thoroughly inspected before liftoff – they are a crucial tool that allows the space shuttle to endure the intense heat endured when the shuttle re-enters Earth's atmosphere to land. After the tiles are heated to peak temperature, the tiles can cool fast enough to be held in your hand only a minute later. I can use Google as well

I was joking, lighten up....

Have I joined the NASA Forum by mistake, I wanted to read about Triumphs.....

I ended up making a switch off a Citroen fit as the design was similar, but quality better. This was after 2 'new' switches fell apart in a matter of days. The ultimate solution would be to fit an in-line pressure switch, quite simple to do.

Sounds like you have sticky jet(s), when you use the choke these are pulled down to richen the mixture if they don't return when you push the choke back in the carbs will be running rich and you'll get the symptoms you mention. If it keeps doing it you'll need to take them off and clean them and along with the jet assembly they slide up and down in.

Thanks Sue & Pete.

Back to the Stag steering rack..... ....Track rod ends and gaiters were replaced, when the old gaiters were removed the actual rack contained what looked like something in between grease and fluid, it's this that I was trying to identify not the PAS fluid in the pump/hydraulic part of the system. Any ideas?

I have forwarded your post to the Special Secretary Trevor Collett, he may know of this car.

Engine mounts and/or gearbox mounts could be knackered. Try disconnecting the flanges and rotating each end of the propshaft a half turn, try every combination. Not sure why this would work on a newly balanced prop, but it can and did for me.

You can try here: https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/browse/triumph/triumph_vitesse but how accurate it is and the level of detail you want may not be great.

What came out of the gaiters didn't look like PAS fluid, but the car has been unused for years so maybe just gone a bit weird.

Any particular oil/grease to lubricate a Stag steering rack?

This is how I've done mine.