Iain T

I would like to keep all my fingers. I'm not sure the management here would like me to take the diff out in our multi storey car park. Also the owners of the new Tesla and Porsche parked either side of me have been patient and I don't want to push them too far. I might ask if there's a lone car space or take it to where I worked in a nice warm factory. Iain

I've read your post and apart from the inevitable stuck nuts looks like something I would tackle. I could then inspect and more easily change the seals and torque up. I've seen a couple of videos where the pinion nut is marked and number of turns noted so it goes back the same. I've been waiting for an excuse to get a bigger trolley jack. Iain

Thanks Pete, I'll make a decision once I take a peak. You know who restored my car for the PO and don't trust anything they did so getting someone trustworthy to inspect and tick the box would calm the worry gods. However if I decide to take it out is my method possible? Iain

I have a cv conversion on my car so if I support and unbolt the shock absorbers the spring should detension and sag? Can I then take the spring hanger bolts out unbolt the prop and drive shafts then remove spring/diff mounting bolts and drop the complete diff. Sounds sort of easy but I'm sure it'll involve a lot of cursing! Iain

I'll get flashbacks of 40+ years ago helping my then father in law to refit a gearbox on his Cortina. The front wheels were up on railway sleepers and I thought he had the handbrake on and chocked up. I was underneath pushing the gearbox on when I saw the car move forward and noticed there wasn't an end stop on the sleepers! I forget exactly what I said but it included not very politely putting the handbrake on. The front wheels were millimeters away from going over the sleeper and crushing me under the gearbox. To this day I still get nightmares! I wasn't happy. Iain

I'm up for the challenge and good to know the first pitfalls but I won't be able to take a look for a couple of weeks. I'll report back! Iain

Johny I take it you mean undoing the pinion nut will rotate the wheels? If I reverse onto my ramps, chock it up and nicely ask the wife to apply the brake it shouldn't move or in fact try and squash me! Iain

Thanks Trigolf, I know I can replace the pinion seal in situ although I read it can be a pain. Worse case is it'll have to come out so I'll take a look at your previous post. Iain

Moved the car and the puddle of Redline diff oil is getting bigger. Perhaps the spirited drive back from Duxford was too spirited! I took a peak and a lorra oil around the diff. Its been weeping for some time but now its annoying. I'll get underneath to take a closer look to see if it's really oily around the pinion and check the breather. The diff doesn't clonk on deceleration or make any whining noises so I'm hopeful it's just seal(s). If I do have to take the diff out is there a cheat method or will I have to make spring holders. I've never taken a diff out of a Triumph. I remember reading somewhere you can use wood blocks either side of the diff/spring block and just remove the nose of the diff. Advice please. Iain

There does seem to be a gap in the market for a mappable ignition widget that retains a distributor with a tacho drive. The programmable 123 distributor plus a electronic tacho conversion would bring the price to north of £500. For a lot of owners the non standard look of a Megajolt is not acceptable. My engine and head is free revving and flowing with a cam that has the same timing and duration as standard but 260 thou lift on inlet and exhaust. Iain

Very true! I'm going to send the dizzy to D Doctor and then do more research. I spent well over £100 for the Ignitor 2 and don't fancy junking it or getting 10p in the £ on Fleabay. The only accurate fully controllable system is something like Megajolt and as I said I'm not at that point...yet. Depends how bored I get as the wife won't let me buy anymore man toys! Iain

The guy from Aldon said its OK on NT and very early Windows but couldn't guarantee it working on later versions. I'll phone them on Monday and share what they say. Thanks for everyone's help. Iain

Interesting our laptop is Win10 22H2? It's all gobbledygook to me. I could ask if Aldon would permit a download to test. They did say one supplier still has a couple for sale. Ah found it 10.0.19044 is 21H2 from November 2021. If Aldon are up for it worth a punt. Iain

I've just spoken to the Distributor Doctor and if its only recalibration they will turn it around in a week and give me before and after curves. They need general engine and cam spec and using their years of experience will tweek the advance curve to be hopefully better than the currently unknown condition. The Megajolt is a step too far for me. Iain

Aldon told me it needs a much earlier version than Win10. They are thinking about getting the software updated but nothing progressing. However I would have to go back to points or Ignitor 1 for it to work.

Amethyst is off the table. I spoke to Aldon and they don't have any but more important it doesn't run on any later Windows software. Also it doesn't work with Ignitor 2 adaptive dwell. So if I do want to twiddle it's sorting the dizzy out with Distributor Doctor or Aldon or Megajolt. Megajolt being the most accurate and adjustable it seems by far the best option. Its very tight for space between the front pulley and electric fan so I'd have to be very sure as to installation before I jump. Iain

How did you do that? My distributor and drive look in very good condition and the write up that came with the car said it had been reconditioned. Iain

Thanks for the info, I have a windows laptop I can use. Have you noticed a difference in engine performance and efficiency? Do you have electronic ignition? It does seem easy to install and I think they supply a standard curve for a Vitesse/GT6 as a starting point. Iain

Finished sorting out the dash spaghetti so I need another challenge and excuse to play with my Vitesse. Has anyone fitted the above unit and is it reliable and worth the effort? I have the Pertronix (Aldon) Ignitor 2 fitted and this unit is apparently complimentary. I have a non standard engine and unknown dizzy advance and I like playing! Cheers Iain

One cause of flickering needle is the spinning magnets. JDO who refurbished my tacho said that was the cause of mine reading too high. Not something I could sort out or calibrate. Iain

Very quick turnaround, they did my tacho in 4 days plus p&p. Speedy cables quoted 3-4 months!

Josef, I think JDO offer an electronic upgrade. Iain

JDO instrument just Refurbed and calibrated my tacho and cost £105. Iain

Back in harness, forgive the pun, after attending to in laws ongoing health issues. The speedo and tacho clamps are somewhat trying to screw down. Found the reversing light wires and ordering a T9 gearbox switch from BGH. Originally the reversing spot lamp was operated by a dash switch which seems to have disappeared. Hazard light now work. I gathered up the excess doin' nuffin wires stripped out from behind the dash. The red mess was for the instrument lights. I'll put the black cardboard panel back tomorrow and whenever it's dry take the car for a drive.

That's the norm around here! I'm on the last what's this wire from sorting out the dash wiring. I found the green/brown reversing light wire dangling in the engine bay yesterday.......?? I've not done anything for a couple of weeks as my father in law is ill (mini strokes) and we've been visiting and finally persuaded them to move to near us to an independent living "plus" retirement home. Nearly there! Iain