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Iain T

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by Iain T

  1. Thanks Gary I did the calc (I remember doing the proof a long long time ago!) but I like to refer to the forum as a belt and brace! I will explore the led option for the instruments. Then it's 'just' a case of tidying up the wiring for the extra must haves ie AFR, USB etc etc. Plus of course finding the missing door interior light switch bit. As always I'm most grateful for everyone's help. It does make a difference when tackling something you've never done before. Iain
  2. Two of the 2.2w bulbs are missing and the holders have seen better days so a few questions. Can I use a 3w as opposed to the dim 2.2w bulbs? I assume I can use 5amp wire to connect even using 3w bulbs? Best place to buy new holders and bulbs (I've used 12 volt planet before)? Then there is led....... Iain
  3. Someone's previous attempt at rewiring! I believe the spade on the left may be to the master switch. A bit of a bodge job!
  4. On the Haynes diagram it's red/white from terminal 8 on the master switch. I don't really care what colour, I have some red wire I could use and wire the four bulbs in parallel. The master switch has the single brown and two brown/red wires connected. On operating what do the first and second pulls turn on eg lights then interior? Off now to strip the burnt harness. It looks like it's only the red/white that's fried. Iain
  5. Only had a couple of hours on the car today. Stripped out the iO Play and a few other wires that seemed to go nowhere. All a bit clearer and I've found a previous overheating problem with the white/red instrument panel light wires ie they melted! Now I know why the panel lights are wired incorrectly. There isn't a white/red wire connected to the master light switch for a reason. So at sometime in the previous 5 or 6 years from being completely rebuilt to my buying the car someone has seriously overloaded the system. I'll strip back the harness tape and inspect more tomorrow. If I'm correct I can repair with new wires.
  6. I had the same setup but the radio on top of the speaker. All very nice until I wanted to remove the tunnel during my many engine and gearbox woes. Eventually I got fed up and but it in a box. It's a Motorola. Iain
  7. Same here, when the radio did work I couldn't really hear it over all the din and being in a sheet metal and press shop for decades has taken its toll on my hearing. I'm going to use Silent coat or Dodomat on the bulkhead. The floors have thick Dynamat but nothing on the bulkhead or firewall if your from the other side of the pond. Iain
  8. I've seen them up for sale for £40 or so. I might as well get something back! Iain
  9. I think this Bluetooth thingy is outdated and I'll never use it. I'm going to strip it out which will tidy up the wiring. Anyone want one? I've also stripped out the wiring for the now removed front spotlamps. They were big wires. The lamps will be going up for sale as well. My issue was the lamp mounts covered the outer edges of the grille so reduced airflow. Iain
  10. Ha its a hands free Bluetooth thingy for streaming. Nothing about it in the car write up plus no idea how to use it! Moving on......
  11. There's a thick bunch of wires coming out of one orange box that ends in a female multi pin plug labeled radio. The other orange box is connected to the one with all the cables so just piggy backed.
  12. No two like this. There's also a button thingy on the rhs of the glove box. The boxes say iO Play and Bluetooth. This electronic stuff is way above my pay grade!
  13. I had to cut the spacer and use washers to bring to pulleys in line. Iain
  14. I'm sticking with what I have and spending the "savings" on booze. Now that's a good plan. The AFR and oil pressure gauges are where the radio used to be so If I want to listen to music I'll fit Bluetooth speakers (there are wired speakers already in the footwell) and pair with my phone. I'll be posting later once I've totally removed the fascia. I can see two orange boxes fixed to the bulkhead that are definitely not standard fittings. Iain
  15. Always best to measure and make sure you can fit it. I also made a new alternator adjustment bracket as my old one (non standard) was way too long and I couldn't get the belt tension. Iain
  16. I think I had to shorten the mounting spacer tube to fit the Brise. This was to line up the pulley. I also fitted a new cable from the alternator to the battery positive terminal. I'll take a photo and post it this afternoon. I'm on kitchen cleaning and Sainsbury duty this morning. Iain
  17. I've looked and also can't find one. Looks like I may be keeping the existing setup.
  18. I'll try and find an electrical water and plumbed oil pressure gauge. Don't know if they exist in the Smith's range.
  19. Thanks NM yes I've guggled it and the capillary ones are a pain. So to remove the extra oil pressure gauge I have I might dip into my pocket yet again and buy a combined water temperature/oil pressure gauge. However so I can remove the fascia I'll have to take the sensor out of the engine housing and try and pass it through the bulkhead. Iain
  20. Found the brackets! They attach from the bulkhead to the centre control knob panel. The fascia is off all bar removing the temperature gauge. It's the thermocouple type, can the cable be pulled out the back. Something tells me no.
  21. After speaking to (Mr) Brise I bought this one. Yes you can get a cheaper Jap alternator but it came with the test cert and is a 60 amp version. Iain
  22. Hi Aviv, this happened to me. I had two rubbish new Lucas lookalike alternators fail. I closed my eyes and opened my wallet and bought a Brise. No problem since. Iain
  23. Progressed today and taken the speedo out, several wires and the choke and heater cables. I can't see where the heater flap control cable goes? However I've unscrewed the six facia screws (Haynes says seven??) and the facia seems solidly stuck at the middle and nearside. I'm reluctant to use too much force are there any more fixings? Is the heater diverter control cable stopping it? How do I disconnect it? Time for a cuppa and digestive. Iain PS whoever fitted the speedo and tacho used mastic round the circumference. No wonder they were both difficult to get out!
  24. It must be dangling in the cavity somewhere! Iain
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