Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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19 hours ago, Wagger said:
hope that you do not have a wireless keyboard??
I only use my phone for this forum!
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20 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
the best part of getting old is you cant hear the pinking !!!
I call that wife mode. It's that background noise that is sometimes annoying but ignore at your peril!
I'm sure my wife can hear me typing this..........
Iain
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2 hours ago, johny said:
higher octane fuel would help
Tesco Momentum 99 octane for most of my refills.
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27 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
in general I reckon the answer is probably Yes
more efficiency demands less advance
That's my thinking hence when I previously had my advance at over 20 degrees the engine pinked but nicrguy1966 doesn't.
Iain
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Anyone's starter for 10.
I have a higher compression ratio of about 10.5:1 therefor the fuel/air mixture is compressed more than in a standard 9:1(?) head. Basic physics tells us when a gas is compressed it generates heat. Given the above posts regarding speed of flame would my head with the aid of compressed molecules and generated heat require less ignition advance than a standard 9:1 head?
Iain
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56 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:
but honestly, even with measuring everything several times, that could easily have been user error
But you got oily, dirty and increased your knowledge base. These are all good things that make me happy😁
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To continue this topic I have advanced my timing from around 11 degrees to 17. I had to adjust the tickover as it was a little high at this setting. Took the car out for an hours drive of slow, medium and er sorry 'orficer fast driving with no pinking under load. Tickover is more stable and revs and pulls very nicely. On listening to the engine my high and low advance range is around 8 to 24 degrees so I set about the middle.
I'm leaving the advance there and will give it a longer term test as it seems a pretty safe setting.
Iain
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Using a piston stop takes away any dwell issues, is simple and works. It's much easier and in my opinion more accurate to use than measuring the valves. Then you can progress to cam timing.
Iain
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Do you have to be careful not to restrict the oil gallery with an overlong threaded plug?
Iain
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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
Setting the ignition by ear (or for peak revs) seems to give me far better results than a strobe and any target 'correct' setting.
I can only say what I'm going to do which is the old school increase advance until it pinks then back off 1-2 degrees. After much reading about how slow modern ethanol added fuel burns I believe the Triumph wsm advance setting needs tweeking. I only retarded my ignition to 8 degrees as I thought 13 degrees was causing pinking but it turned out to be the rad cap hitting the bonnet or as just found a Mikalor hose clamp hitting the alternator. Which ever one it sounded exactly like pinking! Last year I did run at around 20 degrees and the engine was much more responsive but bottled out as I hadn't done the research.
Thanks for opening this subject for scrutiny. I'm looking forward to regaining those lost horses after spending many many hours sorting out the carb fuel/air mixture needles, damper springs and oil.
Iain
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5 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:
was planning on screwing down the idle adjustment on the carbs. Bad idea?
That's OK.
Did you get on with your neighbours.....? It's going to be noisy
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Im worrying now how Im going to stop the wheels spinning with all the extra power😁
Dig out those driving gloves with the knuckle holes😄, turn yer flat cap round and hang on!
Iain
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More Internet searching and it does seem that using E5 fuel in our engines advancing the ignition from standard is required but by how much will vary. Due to the fact E5 burns slower than old neat petrol I can see the logic in having to advance the timing to compensate. The only way to get your engines sweet spot is by ear/vacuum and trial and error. Also due to the chemical composition of ethanol there is more oxygen available and to compensate we need to enrich the mixture. I have 7B needles in so fueling isn't a problem just getting the right quantity in at the right time!
If the above is correct and I have no reason to doubt it this is the opposite of what I've always believed ie retard ignition using E5 or E10(nasty stuff).
Iain
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9 minutes ago, micmak said:
But yet, there is nothing stopping the throttle stop screws from returning to their normal resting place.
It could be that the accelerator cable needs adjusting and is too short. Can you adjust and lengthen the cable at the bracket so that the nipple that fits into the throttle has a little bit of slack and not stopping the throttle from returning properly. This is probably the reason why it doesn't return to the throttle stops.
In short the throttle is being held back by the accelerator cable.
An easy fix if I'm right!
Iain
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As Mac said pre ignition and the resultant stress on bearings etc is the hidden horror. You can hear pinking.
Iain
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25 minutes ago, johny said:
Wow that is interesting!
I agree, I'll do more digging but it does seem to vindicate DD advice not to be obsessed by standard settings. The variable is the modern fuels. I'll do more digging but after the Christmas festivities and I'm alcohol free I will be trialing advancing my timing as my engine is not in a happy place with standard 13 degrees BTDC.
Iain
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I'm disagree I'm finding this a very interesting subject. I found a MG article which may give a clue as to why our engines running on modern fuel might run better with significantly more advance than standard. I'll try and download but Upshot was they achieved lower exhaust temperature and better timed run by advancing around 13 degrees more than standard and primarily caused by the slower burn rate of modern fuels. At standard timing the fuel is still burning when the exhaust is opening hence higher head, valve and exhaust temperatures.
Iain
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13 minutes ago, Firefly said:
Well I live in my world, and listen and feel to what the engine is telling me, and if its happy at 17 Deg BTDC who needs Google??🙃😀
I agree you know when something is right or wrong. I can feel if my modern cars tyres are 2-3psi down on pressure. My Vitesse engine did feel fine at around 20 BTDC.
Iain
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1 hour ago, johny said:
well Im nowhere near an expert on this but I suppose its possible that although the fuel companies have to reduce the octane level for fuels with ethanol to keep it correct its not to say other characteristics such as burn speed arent different. If this is the case and burn speed is slower then there might be a benefit to igniting the mixture earlier than standard to ensure maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the right piston position...
A quick search (I know it's dangerous) and found the higher the octane the slower the burn or E5 should burn quicker than old 100 octane therefore require less advance?
Iain
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In the search for the perfect ignition timing on my uprated engine with 10.5:1 CR I tried adjusting using the manifold vacuum method. Someone mentioned as I have K&N filters they do allow more air in so can muck up the tickover vacuum but in fer a penny. I was surprised when the highest stable reading was around 20 degrees advance! Nice tickover and felt very lively and responsive on the road and no pinking using Momentum 99 octane. I bottled out and put the timing back to 10 degrees. Some time later I had my distributor refurbed and advance curve calibrated by the Distributor Doctor for my engine spec. In a conversation he said you'll probably need more advance than standard to get the best performance. This was not what Google said for a higher CR! I rang back and questioned the higher advance and he said just keep on advancing until it pinks then back off or in other words the timing marks are there for info only!
Mac aka Firefly let us know how it goes as I'm tempted to go down your route and rely on the engine feel and Distributor Doctor and not on Google search!
Iain
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31 minutes ago, Mjit said:
Ah, but that "incompressible fluid" part's important - and certainly on my car there's a good amount of air in the plastic and air is compressible. If there's more air in the new pipe you'd get a lower reading.
Very true but I live in a perfect world😂😂😂.
If I remember my physics from 50 years ago Boyles Law explains the relationship of gas and volume.
Perhaps that's why I'm compressible I'm full of gas!
Iain
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Have you fitted the new lead on No1 cylinder? Out of curiosity I would have fitted No 6 on No1 to see if the timing was correct.
Iain
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17 hours ago, micmak said:
I noticed that the idle screws were not actually touching the casting at all.
Do you mean the throttle stop screw on each carb?
I would screw in the fast idle screw (choke) to give it clearance and get it out the way of the cam then balance the carbs by loosening off the throttle connector and screw in the throttle stops the same amount. Tighten the connector then screw out the fast idle to around 2-3mm gap to the cam. I don't know your throttle cable arrangement but if it has a nipple on the end ensure it's fully seated or your idle will be higher.
Then give it an Italian tune up at Khan's 20mph.....! Oops sorry you're in Dublin so 30mph?
Iain
Adjustable wishbone bracket?
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted · Edited by Iain T
The two top holes are probably tooling holes to locate the blank when the sides are 'raised' to form the U shape. The original Triumph brackets have the holes and the part formed using press tools however for the Canley brackets the manufacturing process will be different and they could possibly be deleted.
Would it be possible to make an extended cover bracket bolted to the original via the top hole(s) and the wishbone holes (with a spacer tube) and had say 25mm lower holes for the new fixing? Spacer washers the same thickness as the original bracket would be needed to maintain the correct internal width.
Iain