Iain T

I loosened off the bolts and screw then put a 3mm spacer washer at the bottom of both glass channels. It's brought the top of the quarterlight inboard and looks better. If I add another 2 or three mill washer do you think this is too much? Will it cause problems with the winder mechanism or distort the glass channel? With the addition of the A pillar seal I could have a near wind and water free door aperture! Yes the pins did try and escape. Iain

So I assume the pin needs a tap from underneath and pops out the top? I can envisage the pin popping out into a black hole never to be seen again! Iain

Taken a look at my door seals, I do in fact have DX73 type seal round all the aperture apart from the roof which is a bubble type. The seal is about 21mm deep and seems to seal around most of the door. I think I can get the drop glass to seal at the top by using a deeper bubble. You can see how the drivers quarter light angles out but the bloomin latch and window handles are resisting my attempts to get them off! I can see a hole in the handles but I need to possibly get more aggressive pushing the dowel out. Is it sprung loaded like the dash light pull knob shaft?

Possibly all, they are extruders and make custom parts. Extrusion tools for these small parts are not huge. Iain

Finally fitted the above pencil, they were out of stock then took ages to deliver. I actually bought it from another supplier,bad move! The only thing I had to do was add about 10mm of spacer washers as the brass plunger didn't reach the contact ring. Works fine, at the moment! Iain

Iain....is there an echo in here? I'm guessing, just need to measure the diameters and calculate. I'll do that tomorrow......if I remember! Iain

When I phoned he did tell me the ratio of crank to alternator diameter ratio, I think it's about 3:1

From the posts it seems the older Lucas alternators fare much better the new ones. This is the one I bought. I phoned them and said what car it was for so they installed the correct pulley.

I agree! In 50 years of driving the only alternator, or dynamo, I've ever had to replace is in the Vitesse. Both were new ACR type from Triumph dealers. The first failed in a few months the second was faulty from new! Take a chance and buy the c**p ACR cheapo's or buy quality and move on to something else to worry about. Iain

Should be a useable reliable engine! Good luck

I'll phone Baines to see if I can get any further info as to compression characteristics. Iain

And Russia, no more Stolyichnaya vodka for me! Iain

At 22mm it's a lot wider than the dx78 or 98 and more flexible than a bubble type. It looks a good fit and will seal a bigger gap. Do the doors close without having to slam them? DX100 also looks promising. Iain

That's why the dealer changed the seals, when I first viewed the car I could hardly close the door! The dealer restores Sunbeam Alpines and probably used some of his stock.

Roger, are you building a race car or just enjoy extreme twiddlin'? Iain

So the CBS leaf seal is correct and the bubble incorrect? It matters not to me I just want one that works. I think I have the bubble one fitted. First line of attack is to adjust the frame then go from there. The P seal on the A pillar seems a reasonable addition to stop water ingress and wind noise. If I get into trouble (probably) I'll be back! Thank you for everyone's help. Iain

I fitted a Brise (Denso type) alternator after two new Lucas units failed. Not cheap but came with its own spec results. Yes I did have to play around with belts, make a new strap and spacers to align the pulley. This may just have been because my strap and spacers were not correct to start with! Iain

It's missing on my car! But then so were many things.

Mark my words they'll be a run on toilet paper and pasta! Ukraine is a huge grain exporter, I suppose bread will be also be stripped from the shelves! Thousands of what?

The drive today, no squeel at low speed. Last week they squeeled?! I wonder if its just lack of use?

Are the seals sold by Rimmers, Paddock etc any good? Iain

Dave I've seen your previous topic, what seals and extra seal did you use? Iain

Thanks Gary I hope I don't have to play around with the body mounts! Nothing fouls there are just too big a gaps around the A post, roof/cant rail and drop glass rear. I don't know what the correct seals look like but I know the garage I bought the car from changed the sesls because the door was difficult to close.

Are the idiots out!?! Do these people ever learn? The reason for the last shortage was panic buying. Grrrrrr Iain I'll buy some anti squeel shims on my next round of bits.

Ta, so if I take the door card off the quarter light can be shimmed to cant it inboard? At the moment it's laying out too much at the top. Can I also do the same with the drop glass frame? I've seen posts that have used a secondary seal attached to the A pillar but the ebay link is too old. The door skin lines up pretty well so I'm lothe to adjust the hinges. Iain