Iain T

That's about £70!? My £7 each albeit with far less cable is cheap. Why is it so expensive in NZ? Iain

No chain links but plenty of leather......and feather dusters! On another note where my car is I don't have power, has anyone used the butane soldering irons and which ones work! Iain

I searched for Triumph horns and just got underwear porn sites! After an hour I realised my mistake....... However I fink you're right but my orns are fitted by the front grille. That's my plan B to fit them on the side Valance.

I think I have capacity in my new fuse box but I am trying to shorten the live feed. I'll try both options and see which one looks better. I'm going to cut the loom cables to the relays and fit/extend existing headlamp cables. I'll have to look where to attach a good earth. Any idea what the bracket is/was for? There's the same on the opposite side. Iain

Carrying on the topic, I bought two sets of headlamp wiring kits (WIRKIT) from Carbuilder Solutions. Consists of 30amp relay, cables including in line 15amp fuse. For £7 each set it looks good value. I'm going to take two feeds from the alternator and might use an unused bracket on the top nearside of the bonnet for the relays. Iain

A Happy New Year to everyone. Wife and I went to Boisdales a Jools Holland club to see a tribute ABBA band. They were really good, as you would expect from a JH venue. The most enjoyable night out in nearly two years! My head and feet hurt, the years are taking their toll....or was it the two bottles of red? Iain

My wife uses Ovenpride cleaner, you put the grilles etc in a bag and pour in the liquid. Absolutely superb stuff but not for an ali grille. As I said try Brillo pads. Iain Just looked at instructions, you can't use it on aluminium.

How about scotchbrite pads or wire wool (oven cleaner pads?) then a buff up for the show side.

Just spoken to my mate Simon at Vulcan Powdercoat and he said he has the chemicals to clean the surface and then do whatever is then required, blast, use a special filler etch primer and paint shiny chrome or faux anodised finishes. The upshot is a commercial Powdercoat company could probably help.

How about Barkeepers Friend as a cleaner? Failing that I would try a small area of something nasty like Ajax powder but make sure it's completely rinsed off. We used to paste Ajax on aluminium pressings prior to being 5 axis laser cut to try and stop beam shine back which can pit mirrors. Fibre lasers probably don't have the same problem. Iain

There's a handy gadget called a phone where you can communicate to others while being some distance away! I thought your post code was blackballed by the postal service? Even if cleaned you will still have to polish out the pits and marks. Perhaps dip, etch prime and paint is the best solution? Iain

Colin, try taking it to a commercial Powdercoat painters. Most paint Ali parts and will have a dip they use for stripping and etching the surface. Iain

The grille has a lot of nooks and crannies so if you have a friendly engineering company near you ultrasonic cleaning is possibly the best way to go. Failing that I agree with Clive vapour blast. I have the same much nicer Mk1 grille on my Mk2 but in good condition! Iain

I think I saw that in the video?

Alex, my problem was at the carb to inlet manifold end the video shows carb to air cleaner. I agree best take the carbs off and take a look at all the joints. After fixing all my leaks tuning became a LOT easier! Iain

I had the same after I fitted my reconditioned carbs. The front hissed. First I thought it was the manifold gasket but on closer inspection it was the front carb heat insulator and gasket. The ones fitted to my car had a slot/notch protruding out of the centre main hole. On my Cds150 carbs this notch is not required and in certain orientation it very slightly protruded out from the manifold and let air in. I bought two correct isolators with just the plain centre inlet hole which solved the problem. Iain

That must be due to the 1Kg Tomahawk steaks 🥩! Have fun and enjoy yourselves.

Pete, I think the current rule is to isolate and take a pcr test in the first two days after arrival. If it comes back negative you can rejoin the human race again! Iain

Thanks Colin, can I now have that in blow by blow Apple speak please? I have a hated MacBook Air

John, its in a topic started by Dave Clasper called Tappet Noise on 8th Aug 2020. My pics etc are on page 10. My question......how do insert old posts into current text? Iain

My view is if you have for whatever reason a low oil flow to your rockers first off check your oil pressure. If the pressure is ok and you don't want to strip your engine down then fit an oil feeder but with a controllable restricter. The all stainless steel needle valve and adapter I bought are in the Topic I started somewhere in the Forum and were made in the UK! Playing about with pin hole restricters just isn't controllable enough. I had virtually no flow to my front rockers even though I had new ones reamed to suit a new shaft and a new billet cam with notch from Newmans. With an unrestricted feeder the oil pee'd out too much. As I said I now have a nice constant drip from all rockers. I (my engine builder) did strip my engine again to see if there was too much play in the cam rear journal or blockage in the galley but all was fine. I also had a blueprinted oil pump so lots of pressure but had to fit the feeder to solve the problem. Doing nothing was not an option. Iain

I fitted one as I didn't have enough oil to my rockers. I fitted an in line adjustable needle valve to restrict the flow to a slight drip from all rockers. Works a treat totally controllable and solved the problem. Iain

Nigel is spot on! As to brakes buy Mintex 1144 pads from the Club. Iain

+1 for Pertronix, I fitted the Ignitor2 and tickover and smoothness on pickup etc is much better. Iain

Yes please Doug. For the moment I have suggested to the moderators the Politics Topic be deleted. Iain