Nigel Clark

With the distributor drive great removed, the oil pump can be spun with an electric drill, using a simple improved tool. I took a 12mm steel rod and cut a slot in one end to engage with the oil pump shaft. Put the other end of the rod in the drill chuck and you should be able to spin the pump and prove oil circulation. Can't remember which way the drill needs to turn, thick it's anti-clockwise. Nigel

I tried one of those ebay kits like Pete. It was used on a Spitfire windscreen, also an attempt to remove some dopey previous owner's wiper arm scratches. It was an old fashioned toughened glass screen. Using the paste with an 18 volt battery drill, I was able to soften the edges of the scratches but couldn't remove them. Nigel

There may be one or two small fuses inside the radio, though many older units don't have them. Nigel

There is a cylindrical coil of fine copper wire at the centre of the speaker cone. This coil sits inside a cylindrical permanent magnet. Current from the radio output causes a magnetic field which varies with the current, moving the speaker cone. Thus the electrical energy output from the radio is connected to sound. It's similar in principle to a solenoid. I suspect there is a short circuit inside your speaker. This may have overloaded the output stage of the radio, causing a blown fuse, or electronic damage if you're unlucky. Nigel

I've fitted a J-type overdrive to my GT6 as they are stronger than the original D-type. The solenoid is very tight against the chassis rail. I can remove it, just about, using one of these spanners: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384448325657?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=f6soLub8Rty&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_AAX02K1SFq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's tight but just about possible without lifting the gearbox and overdrive. Nigel

Have you checked for a spark when the engine dies? Could it be an overheating coil or condenser for example? I would be looking for other causes of the problem before pulling the cylinder head. Nigel

I use multi electrode plugs with premium E5 petrol and get a similar colour. I would say the mixture is about right in your engine. If it's very slightly rich, don't worry, our classic engines run better that way and don't like to be as lean as a modern. Nigel

I've also had a twisted ARB cause uneven ride height on my GT6. Nigel

Try contacting Alasdair Southall, the founder and boss of CDD. He's a good engineer and very helpful. Nigel

Yes, I would expect a broken main shaft circlip to make engaging 4th gear difficult or impossible. The 3rd/4th synchro hub will likely be waggling all over the place. Nigel

While it's a good idea to upgrade to a modern blade fuse box, there is an easier starting point. Try cleaning all the connectors, the spade terminals where wires link in and out of the box plus the spring blades that hold the fuses. Bend the spring blades inwards slightly if necessary so they hold the fuses tight. Then fit new fuses and try again. Nigel

That's good news, thank you for updating. Sounds like you've found an excellent classic friendly local garage. Now enjoy some top-down Triumph motoring in the sunshine! Nigel

The needle valves should stop fuel rising above the correct level in each carb's float chamber. Perhaps the front carb needle valve is letting by slightly, and the extreme conditions of the rear of the car raised high plus a full tank was too much for it. I would clean and check the needle valve as a precaution. Take off the new air filter and allow it to dry out then it should be fine to reuse. Nigel

Unless you've had the suspension apart recently, or a very heavy kerb strike, it's unlikely the camber has changed. I would check the wheel alignment first, either at a tyre fitting depot or at home with Trackrite or Trackace. If the alignment is okay then look at camber, which can also be checked at home with a suitable gauge or straight edge and angle finder. Nigel

The sweep of the wipers is fine Doug. The problem is that the centre of the driver's side wiper contacts the screen poorly, leaving an arc across the driver's eye line that isn't cleared effectively. Nigel

I have exactly the same problem Kevin describes with the driver's side wiper not contacting the screen properly on my GT6. The passenger side wiper sweeps across a flatter area of the screen and wipes okay. It seems the problem is that many currently available wipers lack the flexibility to accommodate the screen curvature in the driver's side. If anyone knows of a wiper and blade combination that works well on a GT6, I would love to hear. Nigel

Top of the list.... Written permission from 'er indoors! Nigel

No contest, go for good quality bearings. Replacing the bearings and setting up the shims correctly with the new bearings is not an easy job... Why risk having to do it again soon because some cheap bearings quickly failed? Nigel

I use an old fashioned great gun like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125958524373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bkgfXCT-ToS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_AAX02K1SFq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It works well for greasing UJs. Nigel

Unscrew the blanking plug then it should be possible to screw in a long, slim grease nipple. It's a bit of a fiddle but with the UJ at the right angle, it's possible. It needs grease nipples like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273761097325?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pdqb4LrvRVK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_AAX02K1SFq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Use a grease gun with a slim nozzle that simply presses into the nipple. Nigel

Are the new UJs tight in their yokes? Over the years, the yokes and particularly their circlip grooves can wear, allowing play even with brand new UJs. Canley Classics sell thicker circlips to take up this wear. Nigel

I would give the car an oil and filter change immediately, drive it, and after a few hundred miles change the oil and filter again. Use a good quality classic 20W50 oil. Two oil changes in quick succession should help to clean the inside of the engine, and much less aggressive than flushing. Nigel

What kind of sludge are we talking about? Mayonnaise-like emulsified oil and condensation, or black tarry oil sludge. As Pete says, the mayonnaise comes from too many short runs when the engine doesn't warm up fully. Occasionally a head gasket failure will cause mayo in the engine, when coolant meets oil. Tarry black oil sludge is the result of neglect, oil changes missed. The action you need to take depends on the type of sludge. Nigel

Another vote from me for Classic Driving Development CV shafts. Very well engineered and seem to be standing up well to the extra torque of a tuned 2.5 litre engine in my GT6. Nigel

Yes, normal in my experience. Nigel