haggis

Hi all, just wondering if there are benefits in adding a header tank to the cooling system on my Gt6? I have a Nissan micra one that fits perfectly to the bulkhead, but I’m aware the original set up only had an expansion bottle which I assume is perfectly adequate in most cases. If you have added a header tank a pic of the setup would be really useful, especially radiator end. Thanks hag

hi David , is the breather pipe from manifold to rocker cover connected? Mine wouldn’t start unless I put my thumb over the manifold hole. Hag

Hi Pete, Well it’s the same as an original except that the place where the grease nipple is, is now blanked off so you can’t grease/oil it. I had assumed it was a ‘sealed unit’ because of this, but maybe that’s not right. Rimmers mention a sealed for life product, but you are right if someone built it, it can be taken apart. Just wanted to see if anyone had tried before? Thanks hag

HI All, seem to have some play in my steering rack, works out about 5 degs both ways on the steering wheel before the wheels turn. I've replaced the flexible joint and the track rods are not worn. The rack is a sealed unit which can't be greased, just wondering if anyone knows if these are still adjustable like the originals??? or is it time for a replacement? Thanks Hag

Hi guppy, may be a long shot but just check there’s nothing rolling around the boot floor pan or rear seat pan, I had a problem yesterday where I thought I had a major problem and after 3 hours under the car found a can of Heineken from Le Mans rolling around in the back! ? you never know. Good place in Feltham London if you are south and want a good prop service. Hag

Hi all, definitely a lot of drift here, but thank you all for your commments. I currently pay membership by direct debit and receive a discount but would be happy to pay the normal fee or more. I agree with angelfire that investment in difficult to find parts would be better than selling the same parts every other supplier has. The club is very good value in my opinion we should make sure it has funds to keep our vehicles going into the future and this means investment from all of us, its members. Seriously how much difference would a 10% rise make to any of us, we are talking a fiver! Hag

Hello everyone, I’ve got a little ? in my bonnet about membership fees. Now I think this is going to be controversial. I’ll come straight out with it, I don’t think we are paying enough for the fantastic service we all receive from the tssc. I would be happy to pay a higher membership fee to support the future of this club. Am I a lone wolf on this? ? Hag

Thanks everyone for your responses, I measured the oil with a measuring jug so I know it has the correct amount and that matches the dipstick. I guess the biggest problem is you don’t know what you need til you strip it down, but if you strip it down and can’t get parts then it could be off the road for a long time. Think I’ll start with the head, and start hunting for parts. Thanks hag

So hi everyone, had my 1600 for 30 years, got a few minor oil leaks and seems to be burning a reasonable amount of oil,( about 1/4 dipstick level every 100miles) plugs are black, crusty and oily. It runs fantastic apart from oil consumption. Was considering a strip down and rebuild, but availability of parts like pistons, mains etc seems very limited. I’ve looked at Rimmers and Canley but there appears to be only one set of pistons left, just wondering what anyone else has done for parts? I don’t do a lot of miles in it now I have a Gt6 probably around 1000 a year, but it’s the original engine and I’m keen to keep it. Any suggestions for parts suppliers/ manufacturers etc welcome. Or I could just leave it and keep topping up the oil. Thanks hag

Hi Dick, that is very kind, its looking like the only ferry left at the moment, but by the time my passenger gives me his DOB, it's probably gonna be gone. Your convoy may be a little too fast for me, but i'll say Hi if I see you and maybe I can tag along. There are practically no Ferries left Wed, thur or friday, so it might have to be eurostar now, not looking forward to a 6 hour journey each way. Thanks Hag

Hi all , stripped it down today and yes circlip popped, and top bush shredded, glad I kept an old spare, so much difference between new parts and originals, best thing Is to never throw anything away. Thanks for your help. le Mans here I come., hag

Hi all, just wondering if someone can give me some means to contact the southern group? I’ve tried the phone number and web address but no luck, was wondering if they have a convoy going Le Mans I could possibly join. thanks hag

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate your comments as I’m nervous about this as i’ve not driven it to Europe before, the costs are very far apart with eurotunnel being £165 return and 6 hours longer journey than the ferry being £500 and a much shorter journey. But I live 15minutes away from Portsmouth so facing a dilemma . Thanks hag

Hi, yes it is low, I inherited like that? In fact it was around 50mm but that was because the rear spring had no spring left in it. So in fact I’ve raised it, it’s got a full sports exhaust so just one big pipe out the back. Having never been on the Eurostar I had assumed it might be better than the ferry, any advice appreciated. Thanks again hag

Hi All, was on the waiting list for Le Mans and have just been told I'm going . its all a bit of a panic, but just wanted to tap into other peoples experience to see if you can help. I drive a GT6 mk1, with ground clearance of around 75mm, will I be best to go on the Eurostar, or will I make it on the ferry? Ive heard horror stories of people getting stuck on the ferry and ripping exhausts off etc, just wondering if anyone has any experience. My shortest journey is Portsmouth to Caen or le havre if that makes any difference. Thanks Hag

Hi all, having trouble with the gear selection on my GT6. I took my car for an MOT, even though not required as I like the idea of a mechanic looking it over once a year and for £50, its great peace of mind. Anyhow, the MOT man couldn't select reverse very easily and forced it in to get off the ramp. Since then the gear selection isn't quite right, it feels like Ive lost my 'H'. So basically there doesn't seem to be the barrier between reverse and the other gears, and 2nd and 4th gears are really stiff to get in. No grinding of gears or anything like that, just makes it difficult to drive. I had fitted a new gear change rebush kit at the end of last year. Just wanted to see what you all think before taking it all apart again. If its gearbox out then it could be the difference between me going to le mans or not Thanks Hag

Hi cookie, I think I’ve reduced the chances of fuel evaporation with the heat shielding of carbs and fuel line around the engine. It has a Vw golf rad and revotec fan and temperature seems to hold well in all conditions. The plan is to put an aluminium one on in the future and then hopefully put an original fan back on, but for now it seems to be ok with this set up and it means I can keep on driving it. Thanks hag

On another point anyone got experience of the new distributors from the club shop? I’m tempted buy the pre installed electric ones but wanted to stick to lumenition apparently the manufacturer use their own version. Thanks again hag

Hi all, ok, so how do you measure voltage when you have a magnetronic module fitted ? I rang the club shop today about the lumenition MS3 coil and they said it was 1.5ohm, assuming I have no ballast then this must be wrong. I’m confused now! Hag

Hi Pete/Richard, firstly definately no R on the spark plugs 'S' suffix in fact, and yes Ive assumed no ballast, can't find any signs of it can't see anything on the wiring diagram to suggest Mk1's had any. Does it matter if the coil is above 3.0ohms? I have one in the garage that reads 68 ohms?? the one on the car is 4.5ohms, was considering buying the lumenition correct one for the magnetronic module, but not sure if it will make much difference.??? I had considered doing the tappets, a little bit noisy on start up. I'll give it a go see how I get on. Thanks again Hag

Hi Russell, thanks for that, I will order a rotor and cap as I don’t have spares anyhow, thinking that moving the coil to the bulkhead is a good idea. Hag

Hi Dave & anglefire, thanks for the responses , carbs and fuel lines are heat shrouded/protected so don’t think I’m having issues there, carbs are just warm when up to temperature. The heat shield in the pic is really effective. The engine is HC prefix from a later vitesse and came with Lucas dizzy. Red rotor arm, magnetronic ignition, cap and leads all replaced 2 years ago, only done 2k mikes since. I was considering moving the coil away from the engine and mounting somewhere on the bulkhead, as it’s just so hot. Any thoughts? Thanks hag

Hi all, trying to sort a misfire out on my Gt6 mk1. Initially I thought it was the coil, had a good read of the posts on here, and thought I’d covered everything. So open to suggestions really. it happens when hot, on a day like today, car starts to lose power, eventually coughing, spluttering and finally backfiring when under load. Let it cool down all fine again for a bit. I’ve looked at the ballast situation, looked at my wiring and no obvious signs of ballast resistor or wire, straight forward white/red from starter to fuse board, white to coil from ignoition. No pink flecks or white and yellow wires so have assumed not ballast. Changed to a good quality coil of 4.5ohm, same imp as rubbish inter motor one that was on there ( on local tuners advice, it’s the only one he had! ) changed back to points and condenser, to check the module, still got the problem? I’ve assumed it’s not fuel as I’ve had this problem before and you don’t get all the backfiring ‘popping’ stuff with the power drop. The engine has only covered a few thousand miles since rebuild, but the only thing I didn’t touch was the distributor. It does appear to have a slightly wobbly base plate, I was considering replacing with an complete electronic unit from the club shop if the module was found faulty, but I don’t think that’s the problem as the points proved. Was planning to take it to SEM next weekend, but not looking to hopeful at the moment. ☹️ As always any help appreciated. Thanks hag

Sorry did this on my phone, couldn’t see page two, irrelavant to the current post. Hag

Same here, exactly the same problem on my now scrap engine. Valve springs too strong, I had an inner & outer spring. Looked back over PO’s previous invoices and he had fitted a Kent cam, wasn’t in there when I took it apart, wrecked the block cam journals. Ran perfect until it got to temperature. Apparently they can be line bored and bearings inserted, but specialist job. I bought a second hand engine in the end. Good luck, I know what you’ve been through. Hag