haggis

Hi, thanks Casper, I was wondering if anyone had any details, I'd looked on the web but couldn't find anything specific. It's good news for me, i now have the correct one to fit and an ok spare just in case. Thanks for your help. Hag

Hi, can anyone tell me if a Lucas 22D with number 41305B is suitable for a HC late Vitesse engine, the weights are stamped 11'. I have checked another spare I have and its marked 10'. Neither seem to match numbers I have read in an old courier article. As usual any help greatly appreciated. Thanks hag

Hi and thanks for the swift replies, I like a good rant but don't get me started on suppliers. I had better get myself a new coil then, might actually make it to the mot in it this time. Hag

Hello everyone, managed to rebuild me vitesse engine and get it running a treat, but have probelm with breaking down when hot. I've read the other posts about this matter but just wanted to double check something, so here goes. Lucas 22d distributor fitted with (shop bought) magnetronic ignition and (shop bought) standard 12 Volt coil. now the car runs a treat for the first 5-10miles, then just isn't quite right and then coughs and splutters and misfires. Put a new (cold) ignition coil on runs a treat again until the coil gets hot. Now I've read the other posts and it would appear that what I need is a 3 ohm 12Volt non ballasted coil, I have 3 coils to play with all showing 1.5 ohm resistance across the terminals which get hot and fail every time. Will simply a 3 ohm coil cure this? Thanks Hag.

Thanks everyone great response, I guessed it might go somewhere near the battery, I'm waiting for the loom so wasn't sure on length of cable. it would seem better in the cockpit somewhere as Pete has mentioned but not sure where the cables will reach. Thanks again. Hag

Hi All, 'I had all the gear and no idea', felt mechanically dyslexic the more I read on this matter, cheated slightly in that having a full set of both duplex & singlex I carefully marked the original timing marks on my duplex sprockets and hey presto. it all seemed to match up. Thanks for all your help, fingers crossed for start up, with some luck it might even make it to SEM. Hag.

Hi, anyone know the original position (photo would be amazing) of the overdrive relay on a Mk1 Gt6? just converted mine and was wondering where the relay might live. Thanks Hag

Thanks Pete & JohnD for all your time trying to explain to a simpleton, I have both full set ups, Singlex & Duplex, I think I'll set it up with the original Singlex and then order a new 4 holed duplex sprocket for the Cam (eventually) and hopefully it will be a straight swap! hurray, brain ache gone. no doubt there will be more questions, but for now thanks for your help. Hag

Thanks John, it does sound so complicated, its just my small brain and the fear of doing it wrong. Regarding the 'Dead Stop' I see from your picture its a piece of metal screwed into the cylinder bolt holes, the screw in the middle is set down into the chamber, I'm assuming it doesn't matter how long this is? I always thought that just getting the piston to very top was TDC? I have no idea what a 'am grinder' is, am i completely stupid? any idea of the magic number?I guess max lift is the peak of the cam lobe? I do have both original sprockets, I guess I could just put them on and then change for the duplex in the best position? but how accurate is this? i guess it depends on the factory setting it correctly in the first place. ideally get a four holed duplex sprocket? I will go out there tomorrow night and see if i can suss it out. Thanks Hag

Hi Pete, as clear as mud! Your right difficult to explain in writing, I'm sure in reality it's simple in reality. I'm assuming the 2 holed sprocket makes no difference? How do I now if I have the cam that needs retarding by 2 degrees? Thanks, hag Ps gearbox went in nice, thanks for all your help.

Hi everyone, just need to ask a few questions about Cam timing, I have installed a rebuilt short engine and gearbox over the weekend to my GT6 Mk1. its a late HC vitessse engine with standard cam, and i have a DTI, stand and cam timing disc all ready to go. Unfortunately the cylinder head is still in the shop and wanting to make progress. Can I still do the cam timing without the cylinder head installed? is it easier with the head on? The cam sprocket is duplex and was originally fitted to a Kent Cam (the engine wrecker and reason for rebuild) but it only has 2 holes!, the other posts on here talk about original sprockets having 4 holes and 1/4 tooth adjustments, will this make it more difficult to get it accurate? I think I need some cam data? to get it accurate, does anyone know what this might be, and how it is used? so many questions, so little time, else I'll never make it to Santa Pod. Help always appreciated. Thanks Hag

Thanks Pete, you put my mind to rest, I can paint it now and get if off the stand. Haggis

Thanks Pete, you put my mind to rest, I can paint it now and get if off the stand. Haggis

Hi everyone, not sure if I'm allowed to do this (possible infringement, undue prominence and all that stuff) but just wanted to tell anyone interested about a machine shop called Owlesbury Crankshaft Services (there are other machine shops out there), in Winchester, Hampshire. I don't think there are many left in these parts, but I wanted to let you know what a fantastic service they have provided for me in machining my engine components for a rebuild. There's an old saying in business ' do a good job, the customer will tell all their friends, do a bad one, they will tell EVERYONE!', with the rise of technology I can now tell everyone. Very Experienced, a little bit grumpy on the phone, (I would advise going to see them) and extremely busy they managed to do everything to a fantastic standard in a short period of time, and I cannot recommend them highly enough. Hope thats of help to someone looking for this type of service. Thanks Hag Just a little sample below as a teaser.

Hi everyone, having a bit of a wobble with my engine rebuild i'm undertaking at the moment, I have purchased a new set of con rod bolts and accidentaly torqued them up to the mains torque wrench settings 55 to 60b/ft. Now I undid them the next day and they all torqued up nicely to the correct settings 36 - 42 lb-ft, do I have anything to worry about? or should they be replaced? Thanks Hag

Hi all, anyone got any tips on removing small end bearings from the conrods?, I haven't tried anything as yet, but I seem to remember something in the past about putting them in the freezer?. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks Hag

Thanks Steve, interesting read. Machine shop, supplier and yourself have all said the same thing. I'll stick them in and see what happens. Hag

Hi, I'm rebuilding a late mk2 Vitesse engine to go on my gt6, having had the machine work done on the block I'm a little confused about the ring gapping, it would appear I have gaps of .45mm in the rings on the cylinders, the technical books I've read basically say max .30mm can anyone confirm these sizes for me? Machine shop says that they are as good as the quality of the rings (county) and not to worry, (they would say that) Any feedback greatly appreciated. Hag

Hi Robin, I'm swapping because I had serious oil pressure problems with the GT6 engine, came down to aftermarket cam ruining the block journals, I mean completed mashed and the block was a write off. It was fitted to my MK1 GT6, so the engine wasn't original anyhow. I sourced a late MK2 Vitesse engine that had been refurbed many years ago and never ran in the hope that I could strip, clean & Just check before reassembling, hoping to save on machining costs. Bottom line here was it needed reboring and the crank needed regrinding but the GT6 block was knackered so not much choice really. If I could have saved the gt6 engine I would have done, luckily the guy I bought the vitesse engine off threw in an overdrive gearbox & prop, a complete rotoflex rear suspension set up, plus a complete front suspension set up as well. Thanks Hag

Hi everyone, as I suspected a big fat red herring, at least I didn't purchase the kit and then ask the questions. Thanks for all your help. Hag

Hi Robin, I have the opposite going on as I write. I'm swapping a Mk3 GT6 engine for a MK2 Vitesse engine and I'm pretty sure that the two flywheels are identical (well mine are anyhow). If it were me then I would refurb your original engine especially if it has matching numbers that go with the car, theres not much in the two except the compression ratio which you can increase in the late Vitesse with a bit of number crunching and skimming the head. You will need to take apart the GT6 engine anyhow when/if you get it, save yourself the pain having two engines that need machining and work with the one you have got, I have learnt from experience to trust no one! unless you have built it yourself or had a professional do it save yourself the grief. Hope that helps Hag

Thanks John, I'll give it a go and see, my metal fabrication skills will be tested, If I have time, might even knock up a drawing for it. Cheers Hag