1969Mk3Spitfire

I remember well both the Metro and Maestro turbos. I worked for Garrett for many years. In fairness, BL were early adopters of turbo technology but in those days it was not well evolved. Compressor and turbine wheels were huge and had high rotating inertia. Turbine speed control was very crude. Materials and design had yet to be developed to cope with the higher temperatures associated with high speed gasoline engines. Front wheel drive, torque-steer and turbo lag was a bit of a handful in those halcyon days.

Fascinating; every day is a school day on here. Helpful and informative. Following on, is there a correct or preferred side from which to single-handed lift a Spitfire bonnet? I lift mine from the near side. It will not lift from the off side as it distorts and fouls on something. Is this common?

Thanks, guys, helpful and informative. Why doesn’t the Spitfire utilise such an arrangement?

A question to the wise 😁 Did any of the Herald range have a spring assist bonnet lifting feature? If so, which models and/or when was it introduced? Many thanks.

I’ve reached valve bounce just once in my driving career and I don’t think that I’ve put “pedal to the metal” in any car since. It was the day I passed my driving test. My first “solo” I absolutely thrashed my Mk1 Cortina and bounced the valves in 3rd gear. It felt like a misfire. As a slowed down I heard the noise, I’d broken the cam shaft. A salutary lesson for a stupid 17 year old.

Many thanks to all for responding. The general consensus is pretty much aligned to my thoughts. My Spitfire has had few owners and has a rock solid history including the original Bill of Sale. While its condition today, after full restoration, is most important, I do find it reassuring and quite satisfying that I know its provenance. I’ve been thinking about buying another car, they seem to be addictive. One car I’m aware of has had quite a lot of former keepers and has a sketchy history.

Could be a bit contentious, but I don’t mean it to be. Why do we buy our old Triumphs? Fun, engineering simplicity, nostalgia or as an appreciating asset…..or a little bit of each? Assuming that overall mechanical condition passes muster, how important is the number of former keepers, odometer reading, service history, documentation and provenance? It’s a genuine question. I’d love to hear the views of others.

Thanks again @Badwolffor taking the time to respond. I’ll measure my tub………anyone know the new build spec dimension (and precisely where it’s measured)? If it has sagged, does this imply that a hard top would not (easily) fit? I don’t as yet have one but it’s something that I would like to acquire and fit.

Thanks, @Badwolfalbeit quiet a depressing read. I suspect that you may be right, although I do still believe that it could be improved without resorting to major works. My car had a body-off resto prior to my buying it. The paintwork is very good, perhaps less so the metalwork 😢 Does anyone know the B to B dimension for a Mk 3 Spitfire and precisely where are the dimensions taken from?

Thanks for the “encouragement” to give it a go, John. I reckon that someone with hard earned experience already in the bank would be able to wave a magic wand and fairly easily improve the fit. I, on the other hand, would undoubtedly struggle. I agree that it makes a worthy winter project but my garage isn’t wide enough to let me play with the doors. I’d only consider doing it with help from someone with experience, otherwise, I remain convinced that it would end in tears. David

Just musing as my car is in hibernation for winter. Next year, I’d really like to improve the door gaps. I’m a keen follower of the adage “first, do no harm” so I’m not overly keen on a DIY attempt, at least not without experienced help. Can anyone recommend an old-school Body Shop, preferably within a reasonable radius around Greater Manchester? Thanks in advance.

Winter time is always a test for a lead acid battery, especially for a car fitted with a dynamo. The comment above to check the earth connection is sensible but otherwise if lights are dimming it’s probably time to replace the battery, especially if it’s 7-8 years old. Nothing worse than being stranded with a dead battery for the sake of £50. On sailing forums, posts about batteries are very common. My boat has 7 x 110 Ahr batteries and I need to replace the 4 domestic bank before next season launch. This will hurt my pocket but is about par after 8 years. The usual advice if that if you’re questioning the battery, it’s time to change it.

I really enjoy reading your trials and tribulations, very helpful, informative and (sometimes) entertaining. Thank you. By comparison, I’m almost embarrassed to confess my Triumph weekend maintenance as lifting the cover, putting some charge into the battery and adding a couple of psi to the tyres as the vehicle will stand still for the next several months.

Nice picture of the GT6, Stew

Writing-up the restoration of a hard top would be extremely helpful and most welcome 🙂 Thanks in advance?

Oops! That got my attention. What sort of boat do you have? One of my other hobbies is sailing. Sorry for thread drift 😁

Once you’ve done them, please feel free to pop around to my place and help me adjust mine 🤭

The only comment I would add to the above post is “nice wooden dash, by the way” 😀 I had a similar, but the not the same, issue with my car and also changed many of the ignition components, reset carbs etc. I haven’t as yet fully eliminated the problem but it’s made me appreciate the simplicity and recognise that car technology has moved a very long way in 50 years.

It was the first job I did after buying my Spitfire. I followed the sage advice as posted above. What was like stirring rice pudding became a gear selector. Very satisfying and confidence building.

Pleased to report that all is now well, screws turn in and out easily over their entire length without even a hint of binding. 15 minutes in a pressure cooker with water and a spoonful of cooking oil. 👍 Black and Decker workmate together with a few wooden packing pieces held the bracket firm and 10 inch Stilson turned the screw. I planned to put in fresh oil and some fuel to see if it starts but rain stopped play. Well, it is Manchester and it has a reputation to uphold. Thanks to all for help, suggestions and advice.

It did squeal, unfortunately. I just used plain water for the first trial of the pressure cooker. Oil is a good idea, thanks. Should I use virgin or extra virgin olive oil 😃 My wife is out all morning so I think I'll give it another try. Many thanks for all of the replies. I appear to have two of the most repair and maintenance intensive hobbies with cars and boats.

I do have a heat gun, if needed, and it’s a good shout, better than a gas torch. This morning, I’ve dug-out an old pressure cooker. Both brackets just fit inside. I’ve cooked them for just a few minutes as a first trial. One has moved about 5-10 degrees but made a dreadful noise as it ground to a halt. The other one stubbornly has thus far refused to budge. My latest snake oil is model aero engine fuel. Methanol should penetrate as well as anything else and the mixture has light oil suspended within. I’m told that patience is a virtue. Gas, 2lb hammer and 14 inch Stilson still in the toolbox.

Many thanks. The picture shows one side of the transom mounting bracket. The other is a mirror image. I've had the engine in storage for more than 10 years. The screws will not budge, even with a bit of help from a 10 inch Stilson. I was thinking about fashioning a 2l milk bottle into a shallow bath and using something like paraffin. Intrigued by the thought of using an acid, vinegar. How about brick cleaner, hydrochloric acid, I use this once per year to clean marine growth from a non-ferrous, nickle-aluminium-bronze propeller. Perhaps a bit too strong for die cast aluminium? Appreciate your thoughts.

Not Triumph related but hopefully I can call upon experience of the forum. I have an M12 steel thread seized into a die cast aluminium bracket. There are 2 of these and they are the clamp screws holding an outboard motor to a transom. Thread is protruding either side of the bracket. So far, over 2 days, I’ve sprayed liberally with Plus Gas and a couple of cycles of pouring boiling water over the castings. I’m as yet reluctant to use a gas flame and also mindful that die cast aluminium is not malleable and will easily fracture. Current thinking is to reapply Plus Gas for about a week and then try again. Any other suggestions would be most welcome?