1969Mk3Spitfire

I have fond memories of Canley, but only as a component supplier making visits to see the Ride and Handling engineers in the late 1970’s. I would thoroughly enjoy reading its history.

Am I allowed to say “utter monstrosity” I’d have sleepless nights if that was in my garage 🤭 Each to their own.

My Autobooks manual doesn’t mention jacking the corner but I can see it helping, thanks for the tip. I’ve only recently had the joy of oiling with a grease gun so I’ll save your sage advice until next season 😀

Thanks, Doug, Presumably, the one you have turns the Venturi through 90 degrees for side draught, the picture shows a downdraught arrangement? I like the one in the Amazon link but it’s length would foul the fuel pipes.

I probably understated it. It works well enough and I feel confident that the carb balance is satisfactory. I’d like a buy a more robust product, made to a higher grade specification. My Gunsons is 45 years old and is showing it. The plastic/rubber cups have aged. The flexible tube isn’t very flexible and the paper scale glued to the Venturi is starting to lift. None of these issue is terminal but as an avid buyer of tools, I’d like a new one. I’m mindful that access to the carbs is restricted by the fuel pipe running across the orifices, the small width of the Gunsons cups fit well into the space available. Maybe I should return it to Gunsons museum, unless someone has one older?

I bought a Gunsons Carbalancer in 1976. It came down from the loft a little over a year ago and has been pressed into service again several times since. It works reasonably well and I prefer some form of meter compared to listening via a tube etc. Carbs are SU HS2. The commonly available STE style seems to have min dia rubber cone of 40mm which is too big for my carbs. What do other members use? Pros and cons? Thanks for sharing experiences.

You probably didn’t over-pay. Firstly, it’s only money and secondly, just think of the hours of pleasure it’s already given you in tinker time. I expect that driving it puts a huge smile on your face, too. That’s all priceless. You are not alone. As a one year old nostalgic newbie myself, I can vouch for the wealth of expertise given so willingly from always helpful forum members.

I recently acquired a digital meter that includes a dwell function. Does anyone use dwell as a means to set the points? Any experience to share? What is the dwell spec for the 1296 FD engine? Thanks

I've now obtained three new quotes. Peter James and LH are very similar and a few pounds less than my current (panel) provider. Classic Line seems to be offering best value, including UK and Europe Breakdown Assistance. Thanks, everyone.

Thanks, Doug, My car is insured with one of the panel and £40 is their additional premium for adding Breakdown Recovery at the time of renewal. And, yes, it is almost 50% more than the premium, that’s why I’m asking if there are better (lower cost) alternatives.

Not sure where best to post this query......... I’ve never purchased Breakdown Recovery / Roadside Assistance cover but I’m starting to think that it may be a good idea, especially as I’d like to venture out a little more in my Mk3 Spitfire this coming season. My insurance is due anytime soon and it would be pretty straightforward to add cover for an additional £40, or thereabouts. Are there other/better options?

It's all getting very confusing, I didn't realise that there were so many variants of a similar thing. Mine, Colin, is similar to the one on the right in your picture. The Paddock version has an external primer, mine doesn't. Haven't as yet found a source for square section o-rings. I may try a smear of Hylomar or maybe a RTV and wait, fingers crossed, for a return of car shows during the summer. Many thanks to all who have posted help, much appreciated.

Congratulations on your purchase. I broke a 45 year hiatus last year by buying a Mk3. I believe that the car was originally fitted with 155SR13 tyres on 4.5J rims. These have a nominal diameter of 578mm. 185/70 will mount on a 4.5J rim but it has a nominal diameter of 590mm. 185/60 is not recommended for 4.5J rim. 5 inch is the minimum. Nominal diameter is 552mm. Dimensions from ETRTO data book. The Spitfire steering and suspension was not designed for lower profile tyre technology. If it were my car, I’d remove them.

What sealant did you have in mind, Pete? The seal was naturally lubricated by petrol as the level in the tank is evidently higher than the pump cover. 😀 I will search for a 45mm od round o-ring if I can’t find a square one, same principle as looking at the bottom of my toolboxes. Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the thoughts. I can’t believe that I’m the first person to witness this issue after checking and cleaning the mesh filter.

Thanks, Detective, The cover diameter is 45mm. None of the 3 within the eBay listing will fit. I’ve asked the seller of the individual one but, as it’s listed for a larger engine, I’m not confident. As expected, it was wet around the seal when I looked this morning. No strong smell but not a complete seal. I tightened it another 10 degrees. Appreciate your help, thank you.

Thanks again, Colin, much appreciated. Mine looks like the one with three sectors. I'll enter the garage with trepidation later this morning.........will I be greeted by that aroma of leaking petrol. 😢 I'll measure the OD and, hopefully, it will be one of those linked.

Thanks for the response, Colin, but the linked parts aren’t for my pump. Mine is per the Autobooks workshop manual, picture attached. Items 4 and 5. The seal is a square section O-ring. It’s profile has taken a bit of a set and now the cover, item 3, is, inevitably, in a slightly different position, it’s weeping. I could tighten the bolt more, I’m sure, but I fear a risk of over tightening (which would undoubtedly spoil my day😀).

Started to tinker with my Mk3 Spitfire today, slowly bringing it out of winter hibernation. As part of the service schedule, I removed the top cap of the fuel pump to clean the mesh filter. I'm reluctant to keep tightening the bolt but it looks to have a tiny weep. Hence a couple of questions. (1) Is there a max torque figure for the bolt? (2) Are replacement mesh filters and the seal available to buy as individual parts, not part of an overhaul kit? Many thanks.

This is the head of our household. Snowy. She was bought as a kitten by a neighbour, 3 doors away. As a 1 year old and with no encouragement, she made a very determined effort to run away and move in with us. The neighbour was very good about it. Her breed are known to be aloof and only like attention on their terms. I don’t think they suit families with kids, for example she absolutely refuses to be picked up and carried. The pain of losing a furry friend is hard to bear so we didn’t want another after the loss of our Italian Coliseum stray in 2004. However, we didn’t have a say as she was so determined. We’ve now been her slaves for around 7 years and we adore her. She wakes me every morning at 05h30 as she demands her breakfast.

The ETRTO* Handbook is the Industry definitive guide. A current issue is about £150 but some kind sole had uploaded an older version on the internet. This shows that 3.5J is not an approved rim for a 165/70 tyre. *ETRTO is European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation.

You’ve all made me feel much better after reading this thread. The much used Arthur Daly phrase “they all do that, sir” must somewhere have roots in a Triumph. Earlier this week I pushed my car out of the garage, first time in several months. My catch tray (more correctly cat litter tray) was pretty dry. I assumed that meant that the sump was dry. I spent a lot of time over last summer trying to track down an engine oil leak. It leaks after use but stops after the car had stood for a while. It drips from the bell housing. I’m fearful that it’s the rear oil seal.

Do you know the Mintex p/n for Mk3 Spirfire front disc pads? That said, is there an easy way to identify the pads already fitted? How bad is bad braking 😀

Thanks for the response. I've just been to check as it's been a while since I tried to lock the door so I wrote the OP based upon memory. The passenger door lock works fine. Enter the key at 12 o'clock position and turn it anticlockwise to 9 o'clock and it locks. Re-insert key, turn it clockwise to 3 o'clock and it unlocks. The barrel mechanism is tight and secure against the door panel. The drivers door does not work. Insert the key and turn it to 3 o'clock. It turns freely, possibly as though the mechanism has dropped off. The lock doesn't work. Turn the key to about 10 o'clock, as if to unlock it, it will rotate no further and the barrel starts to pull away from the door panel. Looks like door card needs to come off. I've just ordered a set of removal tools from Screwfix. I last removed a door card on a Ford 105E in the mid 1970s and that didn't end well 😢

I can't lock my drivers door. The barrel, held in place by a spring collar, starts to rotate before the lock moves. I haven't looked at it yet but I'm hoping that it's a lack of mechanism lubrication issue. Is it possible to lubricate the mechanism without removing the door card? Alternatively, any tips to remove the door card to avoid the job ending in tears due to damaging the card and/or breaking the clips?

The car had had a body-off restoration completed just prior to my buying it so, I believe, that the shaft would have been greased upon reassembly. It’s only done less than 200 miles since. I’m gathering the various bits to enable me to service it when it comes out of hibernation in the Spring. The other grease points may or may not need a fresh squirt but doing the research is keeping me busy during house arrest 😀 I appreciate the help and advice.