TomL

Hi Roger, Thanks for posting this. It's always good to hear good reports of services for our cars, and your guys have obviously done a good job. Incidentally, I converted my Vitesse's tacho to electric, using the innards of a MkII PI tacho. Needle and dial are Vitesse, so it is an undetectable change. Please post an update when all fitted up. Tom

Hi Robin, Yes, you can remove the valence without removing the bonnet (the overriders need to come off first though). One al the bolts are undone, the valence will have some flexibility in it and it can be slid off fairly easily beneath the bonnet. You may need to open and close the bonnet during the removal process and it'll be helpful (but not essential) to have another pair of hands. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Hi, When these cars were new, a radio would have been slung under the dashboard, perhaps in a housing, and the single speaker (for it would have been mono) would likely have been slung under that. For stereo speakers, look at what others have done. I expect you can now get very much smaller speakers than those in your photo, and these will be an easier, and a more discreet, fit. On my car they are in the front footwells. Not the best place but it means that they don't ruin the rear side-trims. Tom

Looking good! It's quite a job to get the gaps acceptable. I find swearing helps. You've probably already done this but it's probably worth trial-fitting the overriders at this stage because they (at least in my experience) can sometimes require a bit of fettling of the valence. Keep the photos coming. Tom

Steve, if the car you are referring to is mine, it does indeed have modified mainrails. The car's original gearbox was a Borg Warner 35, which were used in Triumph 2000's as you rightly say. The actual version that was used was from a Rover 2000 though, as the output arrangement and connection to the prop is shorter, which was needed due to chassis restrictions. Colin, has the seller responded? It is strange not to go into a bit of detail about the car and the conversion work, as any buyer is going to want to know about the standard of the conversion.

My thoughts are that a simply constructed fan would have flat blades. Curved blades would only, I guess, be introduced as a measure of sophistication, presumably for either greater efficiency or reduction in noise, or both. It appears from your research that it is to make it quieter. I imagine the extra current draw at start-up (of the flat blade type) is because it's shifting more air, as Clive says. I suspect that the extra draw is negligible. Are you planning to change your fan? Tom

Hi Colin, There are certainly chassis issues with fitting an automatic gearbox with a 6-cylinder car. I imagine with a 4-cylinder, though, there's a bit more room to play with. I don't know the car and it's interesting that there's no photos of the gear selector. I wonder what that looks like and to what sort of standard the conversion has been done. There's really not much description to go onr, considering the amount of work that must have been done. Tom

I'd do two relays; it future proofs the installation for more switching options in the future, should you wish to introduce for example another temperature-sensor (as Roger has done) or your own suggestion of one with ignition-suppy and the other with a permanent-supply. Tom

Hi Robin, In terms of fitting the seats into the car, I am probably not the best person to advise, as mine went in replacing a set of Jag seats, so I had already modified the floor pans. I made up some brackets, as I recall, out of a couple of body-mounting brackets I had lying around. Tom

Hi, Is the colour "Jasmine"? I imagine that wasn't a MkII colour, so could well have been a special-order. 50,000-miles is exceptionally low mileage for a car of this age, so a great starting point (my car has done well in excess of 200,000!). I recall a 13/60, belonging to a friend, which was Jasmine with a tan interior - a slightly odd combination but it was the '60's! Does it have overdrive? What's the condition of the body? It's great to hear that you're keeping another of our lovely Triumphs on the road. Tom

Hi Richiow, Welcome to the forum. That certainly is a project-and-a-half. I like the photo where you've trial-fitted the front seats - perhaps a bit ahead of time maybe. Do you have any history with the car? Tom

Hi Robin, You need to remove the plastic trim which houses the recliner wheel. This will reveal the set-screws that hold the backrest to the seat cushion. Two set-screws per side I recall. If you remove the rear ones and loosen the front ones, the backrest will tip forward (the loosened front bolt acting as a pivot). I then took an angle-grinder to the bracket and cut a slot such that with the rear bolt replaced the seat would relocate onto this bolt (I think I welded the bolt to prevent it undoing). The only downside with the mod then was that there was nothing (except the weight of the backrest itself) to hold the backrest in place, so I adapted a lever thing I found to make a simple spring-loaded latch. I'm not sure how much sense my description will make but I think that when you remove the above-mentioned plastic trim all will become clear. Do let us know how you get on. They are great seats. I even went so far as to remove the covers to fit electric heating elements (one of the best mods on inmho!). The only other issue with the seat-transplant (which was a bit of a make-or-break actually) was the fact that the headrests had two letters embossed in them, an "M" and a "G" and, although actually quite discreet, they shouted out to me like a regretted tattoo. Anyway, scouring eBay resulted in a far less offensive, un-embossed set; the originals meeting the same auction fate, and they are now someone else's (until they see the light! - joke). Tom

Hi 1904, Yes the Dolomite sealed beam (from a quad-headlight car) should be a straight swap for the Vitesse. I would suggest eBay... I think that the as long as the wattage is the same, then the dynamo should cope. I changed from dynamo to alternator on my Vitesse well over 20 years ago. It's a worthwhile mod and not difficult to do. Tom

I may have missed something here but I think "GT4 Lightweight" is a great name for you car. Individual, like the car itself. The name neatly explains what it is (calling in a GT6 will always require an explanation). Tom

Thanks Pete and Clive for your replies. A few years ago I tried out a thicker anti-roll bar on my MkII Vitesse (I pinched it off a Spitfire owning friend) but I didn't notice a great deal of difference so swapped it back. That may just be my Captain-slow style of driving though. I do agree with Pete that front and rear toe set-up is important. I have just this done and it really has made the car feel so much more sure-footed. (I had had it done years ago too, but the car has been off the chassis at least once since then, and things invariably change - so it was long overdue.) Tom

Hi Clive, I recall you mentioning in another post that you run without the front anti-roll bar. What was your reason for this and what are the characteristics of the car? Regards, Tom

Hi, I can't explain that I'm afraid. I have used the site for years - no problem. Tom

Hi, I don't know why that link isn't working. Try searching: Minty Lamb Ratios It's worth a go. Tom

Hi Bivvyman, A non-overdrive Vitesse on standard rims and 155-tyres does 17.4mph per 1000 revs in top gear. This is very low geared compared to a modern car (my modern car runs at about 35mph per 1000 revs) and it will be far from a relaxed motorway-cruiser. Overdrive will improve things to just shy of 22mph per 1000 revs. Have a look at this website as it explains the effects of diff ration and tyre sizes: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ Let us know what you decide to do. Tom

Hi 1904 I think there's a number of classic car owners that feel your pain of being fleeced on the Bay that is E. I know I do. I don't think Dougb was being sarcastic. I hope you get the parts you're after. Tom

Roger, The dash looks great! I like the colour of the illumination in the night-time photo. Nice touch to light the heater controls too. Tom

Hi Richard, I'm really impressed. Thanks for posting the photos. It's a great mod and one I have been seriously considering for the Vitesse. I had a price from EZ a short while ago but as it was approaching 3-grand, I had rather shelved the idea. I think that you're absolutely right to point out that there's a safety issue with such a mod and one you'd need to feel comfortable about doing yourself. Anyway, yours looks like a nice job and I bet it puts a smile on your face when you're manoeuvring into a tight parking space (whilst people like me are sweating!). Tom

Hi, I'd definitely go for a modern electric system. I agree with others; I wouldn't try to adapt a hydraulic system from a 2000/2500. I spoke to the people at EZ Power Steering UK at Goodwood Revival (http://www.ezpowersteering.nl). They specialise in making and installing electric power-steering for classics. I gathered that they have done a few TR5's and 6's and they have done at least one GT6. They are not cheap but if you weren't into doing you own mods, then you'd have the peace-of-mind that it'd been fitted by a specialist. For me, I'm not sure I'd be entirely confident in a system that I'd cobbled together out of bits off an old Vauxhall Corsa... but it's entirely up to you. Please let us know what you do. Tom

Hi Richard, I've only ever adjusted the handbrake with the car jacked up off the ground. Whilst I imagine you could carry out adjustment with the wheels on the ground, it would be difficult it know if you'd nipped it up too tight (or too loose). There is most definitely adjustment at the handbrake lever too. I have carried this out and I recall that re-assembly of the handbrake lever is a three-handed task that involved a lot of swearing! But well worth the much-improved feel of the handbrake. Tom

Yes. Great news! Please let us know how you get on. Tom