daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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looks great
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6 hours ago, Wagger said:
I agree, Nonmember is very thorough and more of a perfectionist than me. Ambiguity is very common. Common sense is not. Tolerance is the key, disputes are unnecessary. Much better to be polite.
Here here,
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49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
with some rot or rust or Not the basic set up has lasted all these past 50 years
For sure. I'm just into any preserving of the the old girl, especially, as used all year round
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41 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The heater intake is open to the air anyway, so rain falling down is going to drop straight in
Doh. Hadn't thought of that!
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Thanks. Wow, thats quick. Will give a go
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Never tried that Clive. How long does it take, if say, changing the fluid. I guess you would have to hang around to chec the MC level doesn't get too low and to keep topping up?
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20 hours ago, Jonah said:
Has anyone tried to fit a seal of some sort along the top edge of the bonnet to prevent rainwater from getting onto the scuttle and into the heater plenum, which might channel the water off to the side drains?
Sound like the same set up on my Vitesse, it can cause a water trap on the ledge and my steel brake M.C also pipe runs under the heater box .
Your idea has got me thinking to look into that.
I currently tape it over with black gaffa type tape in rainy weather (though over the years, it has taken some paint off when removed) and have squirted wax oil under that area.
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The rivets - there are two per side - were fairly easily adjusted; drill a dimple into the end of each one, then insert a suitable-sized ball bearing and hit it with a hammer. This flares out the end of the rivet and shortens it so that it once again takes up the slack. The winder arm has been straightened and should be better than before.
Maybe obvious to some, though to to me, good thinking outside the box
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1 hour ago, DanMi said:
you will need a second 1 way valve between the pump and washer jets.
I thought (at least on some of them) the jets each, had a ball bearing type one valve. Think my Vit has these?
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13 minutes ago, NonMember said:
"Liquid Electrical Tape" is a kind of plasticised paint. You brush it on thick and let it dry, and it remains flexible and waterproof, rather like the insulation on the wires. If the join you're sealing is clean then it can work quite well.
Thanks. I haven't investigated price, though has it an unopened/shorter opened, shelf life, do you know
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On 26/12/2022 at 17:52, Bfg said:
I coated them in liquid electrical tape.
Hi. What is that stuff please?
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Phew!. Bought some anyway on spitfire 6's recomendation (thanks)
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On 07/01/2023 at 12:41, Iain T said:
That way I know they were correctly matched to fine tolerance and not taking the word of a reseller.
Iv'e not checked the manual, though I had an idea it was quite a loose fit?.
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I prefer the body differences on my My Mk1 Vitesse, compared to the Mk2, though do like the contrasting colour of the Mk2 boot panel, as to me it sets the rear end off.
I think may try to fit a simular colour of vinyl foil wrap in the boot indent, to simulate this, as cheap, easy to fit without alterations and can be removed easliy.
I know it's my car to do what I like, though interested on other folk views on "asthetics". What do you reckon?
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On 02/01/2023 at 12:11, Pete Lewis said:
maybe we need a Myths and legends post Ha
I think that is a really good idea. Also what is acceptable in the world of average driving style/low annual milaege.
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4 hours ago, johny said:
Yes the main bearings (or any ball race bearing) should really be moved only using force on the appropriate race and thats how the correct Triumph tools do it....
Yes, I think I remember that there was one bearing (main shaft?) that was removed by whacking the shaft through it, while still housed in the casing (Haynes info). Don't know how the correct tool works?
Mine was Particulary tight and assumed this hadn't done it much good. After dismantling it, I decided to get it rebuilt by Mike Papworth anyway, as I had him do a couple of upgrades to improve reliability and also didn't want to mess about with it any more if anything not quite right, as I have no experience of these.
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9 minutes ago, iana said:
hence why I’m thinking the fuel may be stale. Just don’t know how to check it.
Hi Iana. A remote, direct feed of fresh petrol, from a petrol can to the carb inlet feed, maybe
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
i would also add check the coil is being fed while cranking as worn ign switch terminals can give problems
Maybe a hot wire direct from battery to coil, for a test?
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On 30/12/2022 at 19:05, Pete Lewis said:
you also dont want the remote rod trying to operate the lock the front handle is on slotted holes to set a small free play at the lock
Thanks folks. Have adjusted, so some small play in the button, before it starts to operate the lock.
When door is locked (from inside handle, as the only way, being passenger door), there is no play at all in the button. Is this ok?
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Hi. I know the fat, V shaped rubber is bonded to the internal V shape of the crecent shaped bracket that has the 2 top holes to attach to GB/OD unit.
Is the outer surfaces of V shaped rubber mounting bonded/fixed to the lower V shape on the various (I assume?) chassis mounting bracket?.
Or is it sort of floating, though the weight keeps it down?
thanks and Happy New Year
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On 26/12/2022 at 19:06, Pete Lewis said:
the button is retaiand by a simple bolt .nut and washer , when retightening there must be some frre play between the end of bolt and the lever on the lock
2/3 mm would be a guess without reading the book no free play will open the door on corners etc.
Got the door card off, in a break from the rain. The bolt head and another (same size?) hex behind this are loose, with fingers.
Haynes says "the push button can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the circular portion of the handle which fits inside the door and screwing the lock nut in or out" (assume the lock nut is the one behind the bolt head?.
Iv'e always found lock nuts to be tightened after the adjustment of eg a bolt, so a bit confused.
Any pointers great, as limited time window to sort out and want to get right first time, as a little bit of a faf, having to take door card off again.
Ta, Dave
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On 27/12/2022 at 14:39, JohnD said:
Thing with those is that wear tends to raise a point on one side and a pit in the other
Depending on eyesight and delicacy/coordination, can just the pip be filed off?
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Cheers folks
According to Haynes, the free play is 1.6mm, or 1/16"
Does worn rocker shaft/rockers, cause noise
in Engine
Posted
Not a problem as such, just interested, as I have read that it does and folk have cured noise on triumph engines by replacing, though have not found this personally.
My engine has always been quiet, though I replaced the shaft as very worn, with the oil scrolls nonexistant at the rear underneath and not supplying oil.
Wear in this area of shaft/rickers ,due to the spring tension I assume?. Also replaced some of the rockers with wear on bearing surface with better ones.
After this the rockers could be seen to be supplied with oil.
No difference at all in any engine noise that I could tell, which is what I assumed anyway, as any wear would be taken up and silenced by the spring pressure?
Ta