daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Hi. This button appears to have become loose. At the same time the door will only lock from the inside when closed (rather than moving the internal handle forward with the door open and it locking upon closing). Is this related?.
I have read up how to adjust the button and assume I have to remove the door card for access to do this?.
Any tips, or potential problms with this job?
limited time slot to do this job, so any info before I start, would be handy please.
Thanks, Dave
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Hi. For my car use, low milaege fairly gentle use, is it just best to use feelers?.
I understand they compesate for any wear of the plastic heel?
Cheers, Dave
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Yes, always found the graveyard very good.
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Hi. Any checks without removing the stat?
I guess when starting from cold, then no flow of coolent into the top of rad, visible with the cap removed?
Thanks
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5 hours ago, Mjit said:
Personally I'd go with another tap. Sure they have their issues but they do at least give you a chance of shoving a pipe on them and draining the coolant in a controlled way, not just dumping at all over the chassis rails/garage floor!
Prefer that myself Mjit ,car repairs are on the road where parked, don't want it to get washed into street drain and then the sea.
My block and rad drain tap wont turn easily to drain, haven't tried much force om them.
Have tried penetrating fluid, though no joy. I could try a bit of localised heat on it to try to get them to move, though maybe break it/stop it sealing?.
The cooling system has always appeared in good shape. No rusty water or clogging up parts, so maybe worth a gentle try?.
If rad and block did need plugging with a bolt after me messing, are both a pipe thread (or common imp) and if so what size threads please>
cheers, Dave
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Trim it down?
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9 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
Hinges can be swopped top to bottom as they wear differently.
Generally more wear on the top hinge?
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Thanks Guys. on my, To Do, list. I think I over maintain sometimes, as have given a heathy squirt of oil down the shaft every year or so and had a points problem fairly recently. Area around the the plate top plate and points was a bit oily.
It seemed a bit baked on, on the contacts. Cleaned and gave the contacts a file. It cured a gradual, though getting worse (until it wouldn't start) starting problem.
Can these be over oiled, or does it drain out somewhere?.
Dave
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Sorry, no idea. Is it worth emailing any Triumph restoration places with your photo, for advice?
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If it's just the lacquer/varnish that is cracked and flaking and the main ply layers separating a bit, then very professional results can be achieved with strong glues and general varnish hand painted, with fine flatting down, though maybe you have no time and want a bespoke veneer finish anyway
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Hi. I have a dizzy with the Vernier adjustment gauge. At the moment the timing is set up pretty accurate I think, though is on it's maximum retard adjustment on the Vernier adjustment wheel.
Thinking it would be an idea to have the the timing set correct, with the Vernier wheel in about the middle of its range, so allowing any further, easier, finer adjustment.
So thinking, if I set up a bulb to do it statically and when the points open for any cylinder (whether on compression or exhaust stroke) and bulb lights, then advance on the Vernier to half way of the range, then retard, by moving the body of the dizzy until bulb lights.
Would this then give me pretty much my original timing setting.
Hope this makes sense?.
Dave ,
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Welcome and a lovely example of my favorite GT6 model
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4 hours ago, johny said:
I keep a handy sheet of EDPM rubber from which I cut all sorts of seals and gaskets including for fuel pumps, petrol tank senders, petrol caps etc
Not saying the info is correct, though the websites I've just looked are saying EDPM is poor against petrol?
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21 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
a very nice-looking volt meter for the Vitesse.
Didn't know you had a Vitesse, or is that what you call the Vit bonneted Herald?
Very nice work on the gauge, love that sort of low cost/more time, resto stuff
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On 16/11/2022 at 11:12, Pdv said:
and there is not any tub spread as the points to measure are 45 inches
Good luck with it Steve
Which are the points that need to measure 45" please
Dave
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Air filters and their gaskets are all fitted with the cut out at the top?
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Thanks Pete. Your reply came in when I was typing.
It took me about 5 seconds when I realised how to do it.
My bloody memory
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Thanks Guys, excellent.
That rang a bell, about that locking tab. I overlooked it when I glanced at manual
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I've done this job a few times easily (including once before on this original Girling).
I'm pushing the distance piece down to release spring tension, though can't manipulate the end of the valve spindle into the right position of the keyhole, so it releases?.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong please.
Thanks Dave
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8 hours ago, johny said:
In fact packing roller bearings with grease can be a bad thing as it gets churned and if trapped generates heat...
Thanks folks. I never overpack the fronts with grease, though use the grease gun on the rears every couple of years, though only do about 1500 miles a year.
It normally takes a good few pumps before grease (which looks like the older, as I have alternated between the black and brown, not on purpose, just what was there at the time!) comes out of inner side of hub (so guess it must lose some, though no obvious evidence of this, as not sprayed around anywhere visable?).
So maybe overdoing it, though no way of knowing, and probably overthinking it (as usual).
Thanks
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29 minutes ago, JumpingFrog said:
Most shafts you buy will be from cars that were dismantled when they reached the end of their mechanical life in the late 80s (bottom of the value curve?), so it makes sense to me most used shafts are in such a condition.
Thanks, and neglected with servicing as well often, I assume (front trunnions breaking after 10 years, etc).
Saying that, if the bearings you've found to be ok, does the shaft wear, regardless of regular greasing?
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On 08/11/2022 at 09:22, JumpingFrog said:
I've taken something like 10 of these apart, all removed from scrap Heralds in the late 80s. I think out of 10 I got 2 usable shafts. None of the assemblies had failed bearings, but on all of the 8 scrap shafts the needle roller bearing had eaten into the shaft.
Wow. Did the hubs turn smoothly with the shafts off the car, and suggest they were ok?
Also, it does make you wonder if they may do a fair few miles with some wear on shafts?
Dave
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9 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
as with any cable drives the inner must engage the right amount not too short not too long for all to work well and less flicky needled
Mine flicky (intermittently) at idle only. Any idea if outer cable needs shortening, or lengthening?.
I did lube it ages ago, though, that made no difference
Dwell gauge/meter for points, how necessary? (especially, as I haven't got one)
in Engine
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Brill. Thanks folks