dave.vitesse

Used the twins on my wife's 2.5 Gitfire a number of years ago, this was noisy above 3K RPM. But as I was using high gearing this meant it was running below 3K at 70 MPH, so OK on long run. On the standard, geared, GT6 if you are not concerned about the noise over a long distance then the twins sound great. Currently using a John Kipping single box sports box on the Vitesse, not too noisy. Took the sports system off the TR7 as the centre box resonates at around 3K RPM. Too noisy for me went driving long distance. One of the reasons I have TR7's is for long distance driving, 200-400 miles. I am getting old! Dave

That some keep down the mozzies. Dave

I agree with Colin. There will be owners who wish to keep there car standard and would purchase the parts for reconditioning. Don't dump them. Dave

The bloke re-profiling the needles Pete! Dave

Clive, I agree with all your comments. To get the best out of using a Mk2 cam it is advisable to fit a Mk2 distributor. However, the Mk2 cam works well with the domed piston engine even using the late GT6 Mk3 distributor. Bearing in mind today's fuels its better to have less advance than to much on a road car. I come from a tech background so fully understand that we are dealing with a system and each part is dependent on the other. Its understanding what will improve things and having put into practise in the past got the right results. As interest the late GT6 Mk3 cam may have had less profile but it did have greater lift than either the Mk1 or Mk2 cam. Triumph were trying to make up for the reduction in overlap by increasing the lift. The cam used in the 1500 Spit/Dolomite has the same lift and profile as the, late GT6 Mk3, late TR6 and late 2.5PI Saloon. All these cars got the emission treatment in the 1970's so I am not surprised re-profiling the needles improved things. I agree in the case of the late GT6 re-profiling or richer needles would be the first step in improving the performance. Dave

Pete, Yes done the same thing. The gaskets seem to be very well stuck on! Dave

I agree with John on the front suspension.

Locktite 2922 works well even with hot oil or hot coolant. Available at Halfords I believe. As an aside, having bought two new Triumphs in the past there were both oil tight. It was only after some work had been carried out that leaks appeared. I have often wondered if the factory used sealer. Dave

John, In this case Kevin wanted to know what engine he has as he has been told it is a low compression and that was the reason for the poor performance. We know from the engine number, head number and that it has domed pistons it is not low compression i.e. 7.5:1. The Manufacturers figure for this engine is given as 8.75:1 - 9:1. The earlier GT6 Mk3 had a CR of 9.25:1. From my own experience the lack of performance from this engine is caused by two factors. Firstly, probably mainly, the use of needles that give a lean mixture over the working rev range of the engine. Secondly the change to a cam with less overlap. Though it should be said that the cam in the 2000 saloon engine is the same as the Mk1 GT6 but not the same as the one used in the late GT6 Mk3 which had the same overlap but with greater lift. The CR is not the problem as the whole point of what the manufacturers did to reduce the emissions from the engine was to run on a lean mixture using lean needles and a cam with less overlap. I fully understand your point of view. Dave

I agree with a race cam you need a higher CR. If you are using a catcher tank you also need a crankcase breather. The easy way is to fit an electric fuel pump and use the hole left by the existing pump to bolt a breather pipe to. If this engine has domed pistons then the CR is around 9:1 then no skinning is required as its far off the 9.25:1 of the earlier Mk3. Having had to deal with the same problem a couple of times with cars using this engine changing the the Carbs and Cam back to the earlier version solved problem. Dave

The reason for reverting to Mk2 carbs is the fact you can't get richer needles for the later carbs and the mixture adjustment is very limited. The Mk2 carbs and needles give a richer mixture right through the RPM range of the engine. Dave

Clive, The head is the same on both the 2000 and the late GT6, not skimmed. Why a difference CR was quoted, who knows. The things that reduces the performance by a small amount on the late GT6 compared with the earlier Mk3 and Mk2 were the change to - 1/ A cam camshaft with less overlap but with a higher lift. 2/ Carbs with weaker needles and its now difficult to get richer needles. A change to the Vitesse/GT6 Mk2 carbs and cam works well on this engine. Even just changing the carbs results in a much better response from the engine. Though I should say that changing to the Mk2 carbs does mean reverting back the the smiths valve breather set up. The CR is not really the problems with the domed piston engine. Dave

John, Its not relevant in this case to state why. By the way the 2 litre has a CR of around 9:1 and the 2.5 litre 9.5:1 when using the same block and head. If the engine is a standard 1974 2000 Saloon type then its only difference with the late GT6 Mk3 is the camshaft. Dave

Your Engine is from a 2000 Saloon cir cur 1974. It should have domed pistons and the head 218225 which is common with the 2500PI saloon. The only difference with your engine and the engine fitted to the late GT6 Mk3, from KE10,001 was the camshaft, 306785. The Vitesse Mk2/GT6 Mk2 is the best camshaft to use, 308778. The CR is given as 8.75:1 for your engine and 9:1 is stated for the late GT6, basically the same. Though if someone has fitted flat top pistons and not domed top then the CR will be around 7.5:1. I wonder what the compression reading are for each cylinder as for the 8.75:1 they should be 150-160 PSI. If the engine is low compression the figure would be around 140 PSI. Dave

The GT6 never had illuminated heater controls. However, the later 1500 Spit did. If you are thinking of using the later 1500 Spit set-up on your GT6 be aware the hot and the cold are transposed. Dave

One shim all round does not sound enough for the standard set up. On an average three would be the norm. But you could get the camber checked before hand. Dave

The springs should be, as you say, touching top and bottom mountings/plates. Where the wishbone suspension brackets mount onto the chassis there should be spacers. Three to four on each mounting point. These look a bit like a flat tuning fork. Open one end. Dave

Just a thought has anybody fitted a spacer, between the seat and spring, at the top or bottom of the springs. Dave

If the front wheels are tucking in at the bottom it will push the height up maybe an inch. If the front wheels are sitting flat and upright plus no tyre wear on the outer tread then the camber is probably OK. Dave

Are the camber and tracking correct as both of these will influence the height. Dave

Henry, When you say Adjustable Ride Do you mean height and or damping? If the spring seat on the damper has a thread and locking ring then its a height ride adjuster and it maybe set to high. See Pete and John's comments. Dave

Hello Roger, It would make sense, many thanks for the info as it updates my knowledge. Dave

John sorry I didn't explain, the point with spades and bullets is that you can disconnect, unplug, a part of the circuit. Whereas if you unplug a multi way you disconnect a number of circuits. Also if you get corrosion in a multi way it causes problems with a numbers of circuits, not just one as in most cases with the bullet arrangement. The late TR7 is a good example of this where it has 20+ multi connectors hidden all over the place. These corrode up and cause all sorts of electrical problems. The best way is to clean all of them up and apply silicon grease to stop it happening (again). But if the owner is not electrically minded then they have a real problem. Originality is not my concern just keeping it easy to repair. I agree needle probes should be part of the kit you are using when working on multi way connectors. I fully understand the direction you are coming from and respect your reasons. Dave

Multi way connectors can make it more difficult to isolate circuits when tracing faults. The Spade/Bullet connectors are reliable and are fit for purpose on classic cars. Back in the late 1990's I was involved in the revision of "MPT 1362 CODE OF PRACTICE For the installation of mobile radio and related ancillary equipment inland based vehicles" By then vehicles had lots of electrical stuff to give you problems, including multi way connectors. That's one of the reason I like the Vitesse as it has the KISS approach of it's era. Dave

The ports on the 1300 are smaller than the 1500. This means the original 1300 gasket has small port holes and will reduce the gas flow. Dave