dave.vitesse

The later Triumphs had green lenses on the instrument lights. Most of which after time had a hole burnt in them by the bulb! Dave

Ian, I agree if the systems been running on DOT 4 and is not being rebuilt leave it on this. It is generally recommended that you change DOT4 every 2 years. One of the points that is always raised against using silicon is that it gives a spongy brake pedal. Having used it for over 20 years in a number of cars, after rebuilding their systems, in my case there is no spongy pedal! DOT4 against DOT5 can be a bit of a hot topic! Dave

Having been on the receiving end of someone not changing the seals or flushing out the system the answer is yes you have too. Otherwise the seals lose their form. Spongy foot pedal. It just like have air in the system. Dave

I use a John Kipping large bore single box. Its less restrictive than the standard box but much less noisy than the twin set-up. Generally the single box set-up is less noisy than the twin set-up. Dave

Always a hard nut to crack getting the thing loosen off.

B5CF are the needles normally fitted to GT6 MK3 with CDSE carbs. Dave

Bu--er too much!

Richard/Paul, Trying to find a suitable needle involves looking at the profile, taper, of the Mk2 needles, 6AC, and then comparing this with the profiles within the range of CD needles. Its the nearest CD needle profile to the MK2 needle, 6AC, profile you are looking for. If I remember there wasn't a direct collaboration between the two so it would need a number of needles and then its trial and error to find the most suitable. These haven't been available for a number of years. The suppliers just get needles made for existing models. Dave

Hello Paul, I would need a rolling road TE and a range of needles to get it right. It's catch 22 as they long stopped producing the full range for Strombergs. Dave

I have had a lot of experience on this. Pete and Richard your are both right. Pete yes they should work OK as they just a variation of the CD150 - But. Richard is correct in saying the GT6 Mk3 CDSE is not suitable for the Vitesse. In other words don't just substitute these for your existing CD150s. The problem is the mixture range adjustment is very small and the needles are too weak. As the adjustment range is very small it is very critical to get the correct needles. These as far as I know are not available for use in the Mk2, hence the problem. If you fit these carbs to the either the earlier GT6 or the Vitesse then performance will suffer due to the very lean mixture, which you cannot correct, and maybe the engine will suffer as as well. The small range over which the mixture can be adjustment was deliberate to stop the mixture being set over rich. I get my anorak and go. Dave

If you setup the mixture with the air cleaners not fitted when you refit them as they restrict the airflow the mixture would become rich. You remove them to balance the carbs. then refit and setup the mixture. Of course the air cleaners should not be blocked. As I originate from Tunbridge Wells I must be disgusted(ing) from...... Dave

Paul, No don't think so. If you have earthed the face plate it should be OK. What would fry the module is if its coil - negative lead was connected to the supply voltage. To test the coil - If you disconnect the module completely and then intermittently earth the coil - negative tag, with the supply on, you should get a spark from the coil. Not a large one as there is no capacitor. Dave

Hello Paul, Sorry I though you had already removed the electronic ignition. If it is still installed then check it is connected to the coil correctly as per the makers instruction. Dave

Hello Paul, when the points open this causes a brake in the LT current in the coil and that produces a spark. So yes good pun, its the bits that where removed to fit the electronic ignition need to be refitted and set up. points, capacitor and the dizzy side connecting tag of the points. Dave

Look good to me.

Paul, As you have power to the coil have you tried the to obtain a spark from the coil only to earth as the roto arm or dizzy cap or HT leads may be defective. If still no spark then it sounds like the point side of the circuit is the problem. Either - points are not closing or opening, points require cleaning, the capacitor is defective, the lead between the coil and dizzy is open circuit. Dave

Good point Pete, The five speed TR7 is worst as this gearbox has an integral oil pump driven off the input shaft. If you tow the gears go around but there's no oil circulating. Dave.

We have a local club member with a TR3A and he always has trouble with misfires after the Winter layup. Filling up with fresh fuel resolves the problem. Not had the problem myself but, it may be down to the brand of fuel. Dave

The manufactures used camber shims, one or two no more, to bring the engine up clear of the rack. But as said watch the top hose clamp. Plus the first stub, from the water pump, hold down the rocker cover for clearance. As this had a habit of producing an inside out dent on the bonnet if you hit a too heavy bump in the road this was changed to a long bolt on the Mk2. Dave

On the Spit, cast iron bell housing and overdrive - Oh my back! On the GT6 - Oh the back of my head! But at least you can remove the gearbox from inside the car. Excellent idea.

On the 13/60 the water flows from the thermostat into the inlet manifold water pipe. At the heater end of the pipe there is a restricted flow heater bypass route. The non-restricted flow is fed to the heater valve and when its valve is opened this is fed through the heater matrix. Both the heater output and the restricted water flow are then fed back via the return pipe behind the exhaust manifold to the lower section of the water pump housing. There is a clever bit of thinking in all of this. That is in the Winter you need more heat applied to the inlet manifold than in the Summer. The result of using the heater, which you would do in the Winter, is to increase the hot water flow through the inlet manifold and thereby increasing the heat applied. The same idea is used on the six cylinder engines fitted with a water heater manifold. i.e Not the Vanguard 6 or pre mid 1965 Vitesse 6. Dave

Rotoflex - Generally if you are having problems measuring the end float - One of the problems with measuring the end float is that the oil/grease seals tend to mask this and will cause some drag when you are testing for bearing drag making it even more difficult to obtain meaningful results. Therefore, start with some end float to judge the drag effect of the seals. Then reduce the clearance until you can feel the bearings drag, then increase the clearance by a very small amount and check the drag. A very very small amount of bearing drag is about right as they need to bed in. However, the bearings should not be binding. When carrying out the tests ensure the, stone guard, spacer, inner and out bearing are fitted correctly, no gaps, plus the hub is torqued down to the given figure. Final check - The bearings are not binding and the other way there is not a large end float. Then pack with grease. Tip - As the splines tend to twist after many miles of use, ensure you fit the hub on to the shaft in the same position it came off. Dave

My view is the same as Pete's and John's don't fit the external oil feed. Dave

Rotoflex - The end float has to be measured dry, without grease and with the drive shafts on the bench. As everybody has said it is difficult to measure and without the original test kit, as a result is trial and error. Maybe the nearest you can get is to clamp the drive shaft in a vice and wangle the upright. There should be a very very, tiny, amount of play. Not unlike the front hubs. After setting this up them pack with grease. The above is the method I use, but having spent time in QA and looking for definite's I will say its very subjective. Dave

There is a standard problem with the small four a the six engines where the oil seeps out of the corner of the head/block just above the last sparking plug. Plug 6 on the six cylinder engine. If this is the area where the leak is, it normally comes from the oil transfer hole - from the block to the head. The head gasket needs a small amount of sealer around the oil hole on both sides. Only use a small amount as too much may block the oil hole. Dave