dave.vitesse

Welcome Bob, Having owned a number of Spitfires I found they are one of the most practical sports cars you can work on. They were the last mast produced traditional British roadster, going back to the 1930's, that has a separate chassis. And great fun to drive and economical to own. Club meetings are given in the back of your Courier. The TSSC West Kent web site - www.tssc-westkent.org Dave

GT5 does nasty things to the washers in the Diff. Dave

The PI type tend to fall off the Vitesse rims. Just pack the leading edge out with some masking tape. Yes I know the standard Vitesse ones fall off after ageing but the PI type did it from new! Many a happy hour searching the roadside for that Rostyle. Dave

I stick to water and antifreeze. If you flush out the system regularly then replace with new antifreeze and de-ionised/distilled water then corrosion problems should be minimised. I would advice any TR7 2 Litre or Stag owner to flush out the system every year. If you have a TR7 or Stage with a repro or recon water pump it may well end up doing it for you anyway! Dave

Back in the early 2000's a number of ex Standard Triumph staff were employed at the Unipart Bangington B warehouse near Coventry airport. Dave

Watch out for those bleed screw threads leaking air back in. It happens!

Yes, you know where you are with a jam jar. Dave

Used the Gunson Eezibleed system. It worked well on The TR7 with the smaller master cylinder cap. On the Vitesse, Herald and Spit with the bigger cap leaks where a problem. I got fed up setting the thing up and went back to getting the wife pumping the pedal. Just ensure you close the bleed nipple before raising the pedal from the last down stroke, with or without a one way valve, as bleed nipple screw threads can sometimes let air back into the system. I guess we all have our own ways of doing stuff, this way works for me. Dave

You can't use the 2500 inlet manifold under the GT6 bonnet. CD 175 will fit using adaptor plates on the existing GT6 manifold. However, I agree with Steve the lack of suitable needles is a problem. Steve, The angle is also on the 2500 inlet manifold. It just fits under the bonnet of a Vitesse. But not under a GT6 bonnet. Dave

Colin, In theory the two thirds gauge reading should be around 90 deg C. But, as we all know it all depends on the state of the gauge, sensor and Voltage stabiliser. As for the side valances, the vents slots around the exhaust manifold point to the fact they trap some heat in. The competitive people back in the 1960's took them off. Trying to be diplomatic! Dave

I concur with John. Dave

Clive - Yes did the same on the wife's GT6 Convertible she had 20 years ago. Ended up with a skimmed S head and Mk2 Cam. BAE needles and green springs. The Rotoflex couplers put up with the torque OK which surprised me. 160 flb torque and around 130 BHP. It used to make drivers of more powerful sports cars wonder what was going on. You been there you know what I mean! Dave

The 2.5 carb Saloon needles are BDB and springs yellow. A bit weak on K & N's SAH/Triumph Tune recommend BDQ. More importantly the Standard SU's and 2500 manifold will not fit under the bonnet of a GT6. Your have to fit adaptor plates, Triumph Tune, to the GT6 manifold and used short dashpot SU's from a Dolomite Sprint. Or as the 2500 inlet manifold is angled up, the problem, modify it take out the angle. A job for a specialist. As a temp measure you can use the CD150's. But,as you would suspect with smaller throat carbs lots of low down torque but less willing to rev from mid to top range. Pete, BDU is the OZ spec for the 2500, as per the Triumph WM and SU notes. You have to turn BDU needles upside down to get them to work in the UK! Dave

Don't use a three legged puller. Use a top hat type that bolts, using the wheel studs, to the hub flange. The club sell a good one. Dave

When the Herald was first introduced, 1959, it did not have ant side valances. The motoring press slated the fact that dirt easily entered the engine bay. As a result the Herald was given side valances,1960. This has been carried over to all subsequent Triumph models based on the Herald. I am not convinced they help the cooling especially when stuck in traffic. They appear to trap the heat in around the engine and if anything when on the move push it against the bulkhead with nowhere to go. I have tried a GT6 with and without the side valances in temperatures 28 -30 degs, Summer of 1996, and found it ran cooler without them. This is not a very scientific finding and only my view. Dave

A GT6 top bracket maybe long enough. Dave

It your GT6 is a late Mk3 then it has weak needles to start with. I would talk to Burlen Fuel Systems, 01722 412500, about the richer needles and stronger carb springs. Though be aware the range of needles is now limited for Strombergs. If richer needles are not available then fit stronger carb springs anyway. Dave

Roger, a smaller alternator pulley makes the it run faster. A pulley larger than the original Lucas should be avoided. A smaller one is preferable. Dave

One important thing I forgot, getting old, was if you fit a high output alternator, greater than 40 amps, then you will need to change the main supply wiring, large Brown/Yellow and large Brown leads, to handle the extra current. Dave

Triumph cars fitted with an alternator as standard - The manufacturer fitted a larger crank, bottom, pulley when they changed to the alternator. When modifying to an alternator from a dynamo if you use the original, smaller, pulley you may notice the ignition light come on at low tick over rpm. It will also to some extent reduce the output by a small amount. The big Mk2 Saloon, 1970's, was fitted with an alternator and this pulley fits the Vit/GT6 Mk2 engine. I can not remember what the diameter difference is. Dave

Spits, Toledos, Dolomites, later GT6, TR6 and the big Saloon, plus if you do an alternator conversion - Many of the after market plug leads are longer than original type and can drape over the back of the alternator. The plug leads are changed to improve things. A little time after fitting new leads the alternator goes wrong. You think well just like the plug leads its old that was the problem, so I will fit a new one. A little time later the replacement also goes wrong. Investigation showed the regulator box was failing due to the high voltage field. Dave

The TR7 uses an 17ACR type which has a higher output the the Spit 16ACR. One of the causes for the failure of the regulator is draping the number one spark plug lead over the back of the Lucas ACR Alternator. The lead put a very high voltage field just above the regulator box and it causes the, 1960's, electronics to fail. Dave

Use the bottom mounting bracket from - 2000/2500 Saloon, MkIV/ 1500 Spitfire, Toledo and 1300/1500 Dolomite. Use the top mounting adjusting arm/bracket from - 2000/2500 Saloon. The MkIV/ 1500 Spitfire, Toledo and 1300/1500 Dolomite top adjusting arm/bracket is not suitable. Or you can use both brackets from a Mk3 GT6 if you can find any. Wiring - a Connect the existing large wire marked Brown/Yellow to the large outer or centre tag of the three connections. This wire is the main supply feed line b Connect the small lead marked Brown/Green to the small outer tag. This wire is normally connected to the control box to regulate the dynamo output. But after the modification it will be used feed the ignition light. The 16ACR and 17ACR alternators contain their own internal regulator (control box) therefore the conversion will remove the need for this part of the car’s electrical circuit. In effect you will be bypassing the control box and allowing the alternator to directly feed the vehicle’s electrical equipment. This is carried out as follows: a Unplug all of the large leads from the control box. b Connect the alternator main feed lead, Brown/Yellow, to all (2) of the vehicle equipment main feed leads, which are all coloured Brown. c Unplug the two small leads – Brown/Green and Brown/Yellow d These small leads form the feed to the ignition light and should be connected together. The colours are Brown/Green from the alternator and Brown/Yellow to the ignition light. e Unplug the small black earth lead and insulate to prevent it shorting out other connections in the same area. An old control box can be adapted to cross connect the wires. Dave

Old seals or bent shims can give this effect. Sometimes removing the shims can effect a temp cure. Dave

Good to hear the replacement spring have solved the problem. I agree with Pete re the camber. From past experience try three shims all around to start with. dave