Andrew

Hello I thought it is only fair to give feedback from a question I asked regarding ease of bleeding a clutch on a Herald 13/60. Today I changed my master cylinder as the seals were leaking and I needed to change the fluid as it has not been changed for a since I have owned the car and according to the previous keepers records it was some time since. Anyway all went according to plan master cylinder changed and as advised on here you can undo the bleed nipple from under the car with a 7/16th socket and a universal joint with a small extension approx 2 inches to get the ratchet away from the fluid pipe. Hope this is of help Regards Andrew

Hi Pete I will take your word for it until I have removed all the skin from my hands trying to get to the nipple. Can I send you the hospital bill. I have asked Father Christmas for a two post lift in my garage only problem is it will not fit in and the ceiling of the garage is the floor of my bedroom. Am I sad for asking for this? Andrew

Hi all I am going to buy a new master cylinder tomorrow from Fitchetts so intend to do the job next weekend wheather permitting so I will let you know my results and what I actually needed to so. Just a thought wouldn't it be a good idea for the manufacturer of new gearbox tunnels to include a inspection hatch just for this particular job of bleeding the clutch. Or am I being silly. Your thoughts please Andrew

Of course air rises nipple at top makes sense. Is there any other way to bleed without removing tunnel

Hello Bit of advice needed please I am going to change my clutch Master cylinder (as it is leaking)and I am going to take the opportunity to change the fluid as it has not been changed for a number of years. The advice I need is the easiest way to get a spanner on the slave cylinder bleed nipple. AS it seems to be difficult to get at so any bright ideas or tricks would be most welcome. Why is the nipple on the top of the cylinder and the pipe on the bottom, is there a reason for this? Thank you in advance Andrew

Hi Just to add comment on this issue. I had exactly the same problem on my Herald after fitting brand new trunnions. I used J B weld which comes in a two separate tubes which you mix and I applied it to both trunnion bottoms, I did this about a year ago and all now OK so when I push oil into the trunnion it comes out the top as it should to prove it is full. Hope my comment is of help Regards Andrew

Hi Pete I think the washers were OK but as you suggested they are a bit squashed but for the cost of new nuts and washers and the time involved removing the rocker cover and the rocker shaft it seamed silly not to renew them. Dougbgt6 It is one thing which annoys me on this forum, as you say people come on this forum asking for help and a lot of people give it freely but we never hear if the issues has been fixed as the help, suggests. It would be of help to everybody if the help suggested actually fixes the problem so we can all learn for future reference. Regards Andrew

Hello I thought out of courtesy I would give you an update. As advised purchase new nuts and washers, and replaced all on the studs. Tightened down head to the correct torque. Took the car for an good run approx 40 miles and the leak seams to have been cured. I will check the torque on the nuts in about 500 miles to make sure all is OK. Thanks to all for your help and suggestions. Regards Andrew

Had my herald 13/60 just over a year when I bought it I noticed a oil leak from back left corner of the head, not bad just needed to wipe it at end off the day before putting in the garage. About six months ago decided to fit a lead free head all when the well and I did put some gadget compound round the suspected area. No leak for six months until today back came the leak so back with the cloth. I have been advised that this particular area is a common place for oil leaks. Three questions 1 can I cure it with any thing without removing the head 2 will it get worse 3 should I just live with it Regards Andrew

Hi John Had exactly the same problem when I changed my wheel all I did to resolve the issue was to loosen the collapsible steering joint and pull the wheel up couple of MM. to give clearance between the wheel boss and the column no more problems. Let me know your thoughts as would be interested Regards Andrew

Hello to all As promised I said I would update everyone with my brake pedal travel issue. Did every thing that was advised by classiclife and also fitted a new master cylinder. Now my pedal travels about half way and is solid. On dismantling the old cylinder found the bores quite rough so this could have been part of the problem, but once again thankyou to all (now all I need is a dry day to road test my car) Regards Andrew

Thank you to all I think I will start with a new master cylinder and then take your advise regarding the hand brake cable set up and locking the rear wheels and jacking up under them rather than let them hang. I will report back so all can see my solution Regards Andrew

Here is my tail of woe (why do I bother sometimes working on my beloved car) when I bought my Herald about a year ago I was informed that the brake fluid had not been changed for some years. And as we know it is good practice to change the fluid every couple of years or so I though. As I was going to have to bleed the system I thought I would replace my flexi hoses so bought four new ones. Replaced the two rear hoses no problem and bled the read two brakes. Proceeded to the front callipers both bleed nipples sheared off so bought two new callipers from the club shop. Fitted the callipers bled the front brakes and here is my problem. The brake pedal travels almost to the floor before any braking takes place but when you get there it is a solid pedal but if you pump the pedal it bites about a third of the way down and it is a good solid pedal as it was before I messed with anything. So I made sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly which they are bleed the system again no air found in the system but the pedal is no better. Any suggestions please cannot figure this one out Regards from a Frustrated Andrew

Hi all as requested an update of my problem of the oil coming out of the bottom of the trunion. I had two choices buy a new off side trunnion or attempt to seal it. I am very fortunate in the place where I live we have an excellent car spares shop, I was looking for insperation of what to buy. I as advised to buy a product called J B Weld, it came in two tubes which you you mix in equal proportions, after cleaning the bottom of the trunnion applied this compound let it dry over night and this morning got the oil gun out and what do you know the oil came out of the top of the trunnion as it should, so it seems I have cured the problem without the expense of buying a new trunnion and the time fitting it. Interested if anyone has heard or used this J B Weld compound and what are you thoughts. Regards Andrew

Hello all Advise or tips required. Replaced my trunnions about a year ago and as we all know regular oiling of them is required. Did the oiling this weekend with a club shop bought oil gun, did the operation as recommended jacked car up and pumped oil in until the oil came out of the top of the near side one. All ok Repeated this on the off side but the oil decided to come out of the bottom of the trunnion not the top. Just to be on the safe side I removed the trunnion to make sure ther was no problem inside of it. Replaced in car after filling the trunnion up with oil manually so had another go with the gun on the nipple but once again out of the bottom it came. Any suggestions how to seal the bottom where the tin plate sits, and if I can with what and how do I clean the surface to allow the sealent to dry as oil is weeping out. Or is the best thing to do buy one trunnion and fit. PS both trunnions were brand new on fitting about 12 months ago Regards Andrew

I have a Lucas dissy I will check all is tight Andrew

Pete On another small matter connected to distributor points issue. I have just taken the distributor cap off just to see if I need anything else for tomorrow when I will go to the club shop to buy the electronic ignition and I have noticed the base plate in the distributor moves up and down when I get hold of it manually, I know it moves round to accommodate the vacuumed advance but is it right it moves up and down like it appears to be loose how is it fixed down

Hi guys Do I need a new special coil as I bought mine from the club shop only 6 months ago so I know it is a good one is this coil ectable to run with the magnatronic ignition Regards Andrew

The reason I say luminition magnatronic as I always work on the basis as the club shop sells them they must have a good track record and this is where I will buy one from always try to support the club shop first Andrew

Hi all I think I will just wash and polish and see if they age well if not I can afford to replace the numbers in a few years, not sure if this is a case of suck it and see Why do we turn from sensible people to complete OCD people when we have a classic car HELP Andrew

Hello all What are you thoughts on converting from points to the luminition magnatronic system for my Herald what are the pro and cons Regards Andrew

Thanks Clive I did look at Rimmers but no screw found in the herald ignition page will just phone them(good to talk) while we are on the subject what are your thoughts on the luminition magnetronic as I am thinking of converting Regards Andrew

Just a small question (as the screw is small) the screw securing the condenser in the distributor,does anyone know what size it is and or where I can get one from please Regards Andrew

Hi Colin I will make it a twice yearly job on my service schedule I have set up on my computer is that sad? Regards Andrew

Thanks Colin Good tip about the Waxoyl did not even give the brackets a thought Regards Andrew