Andrew

See you all on Sunday Andrew

As one of the Ten Commandments states "honor your mother and your father so that you all can live long in the land your god gave you" my my parents died ten years ago and I still miss them both terribly Andrew

Hi all i had exactly the same problem. Bought two new callipers for my Herald from the club shop last year. After fitting I could only get a solid pedal after pumping. The usual cause of this is adjustment on the rear. The theory for this is that as you pump the first time the shoes expand and the second pump the shoes contact the drum. Then when left for a few seconds the return springs pull them back to the starting position and the whole process starts again. So the fix was to clap,each flex hose all four at once. One by one taking a clamp off. After removing both rear clamps my pedal had a long travel. This then lead to a fault at the front. I noticed there was a cap between the pads and the disc. So I removed both pads on side at a time, got an assistant to press the pedal until the pistons were exposed by about 1/2 inch pushed them back in replaced the pads and a short travel on the pedal was returned. Cause of all this the seals in the callipers were pulling the pistons back in. regards Andrew

Just to add my bit. I have been using filters from the club shop for years, never had a problem. regards Andrew

Good suggestion of clamping the lower shaft, I will have a go this weekend and report back. Thanks for the idea regards Andrew

Hello Ben yes I am talking about turning the wheel left and right. I cannot see how I can cure this slight play, there is definitely a bit of free play when you turn the wheel when nothing happens regards Andrew

Hi all sorry my car is a 13/60 herald. Column bushes should not resolve the left to right steering play shoul it. I thought bushes worn bushes are only going to effect up and down vertical play. Please correct me if I am wrong regards andrew

I have noticed a very small amount of free play when I move my steering wheel from side to side. The free play is definedley in the steering clamp and not the U J. I have followed the WM and tightened the two bolts first then tightened the Allen screw, and locked that with the luck nut. But there is still about 1/16 free play. Is this ok or shall I try another meathod of eliminating the play. Any ideas anyone. PS I have got the flat side of the column inline with the Allen screw regards Andrew

John D of course use goggles that is just common sense. It is not only sufficient acid it is a mixture of 10% sulfuric acid and 90% water, and that is called electrolyte. Doug it is actually 2.45 per cell when on charge as the overcharge factor is needed. This will then fall to 2.10. This should be across al cells as wet batteries Need what is known as a equisation charge. You cannot revive an battery at the end of its life no matter what claims are made. Active material falls of the lead plates ever time a charge is applied. This material will fall to the bottom of the battery into what is know as the mud space. This. Will then short across the negative and positive plates resulting in a dead battery end of story regards Andrew

Guys An old trick i was shown to test a battery. get an assistant to hold the ignition key in the start position. Whilst he or she is doing this look in the top of the battery (If not a sealed type) see if there are bubbles in the electrolyte (Acid). if there are that cell is dead as the other cells are trying to make up for that one dead cell. For those of you who don't know a 12 volt battery is made up of 6 times 2 volt cells. A wet battery will only produce 2 volts per cell, it is purely that way with physics as a chemical reaction. The power of the battery is in the acid and water mix which is called electrolyte. not in the lead plates. Regards Andrew

Paul I had to buy new MCs for both my brakes and clutch. Try fitchets or James Paddock, bought many things from both of these suppliers never been disappointed with the quality of the parts Regards Andrew

Count me in so looking forward to a twiddle regards Andrew

Hi Paul what car is it. If the cylinders are that bad why just but new units andrew

More quick fixes like this should be posted for all to see and share.

Take a look at my extra long grease nipples for greasing UJ. Got a piece of tube, tapped a thread in one end,screwed a cut off nipple in. using a bench press pushed another cut down nipple in the other. will I make myself a millionaire if I patented it.

Thanks Anglefire. i am rather proud of my effort. I am planning on patterning it and make my self millions. Andrew

Guys i promised I would update you on my efforts. Take a look at the picture. I cut some tubing, cut a thread in one end to accommodate the threaded part of a grease nipple, used a drill to open up the other end of the pipe and then using a bench press pushed the non threaded part of the nipple in. What are your thoughts. regards Andrew

Hi Barry like the idea, I am still going to try my original idea of soldering a length of tube between two nipples. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit, as no point in being cold. i will update when complete Andrew

Hi Barry. get a bit of pipe that fits over your shaft and rests on the inner race of the bearing and a few light knocks with a hammer and it will drift on easily andrew

Hi Barry sorry to far for me as I live in a Derby. Good luck with the job.

Hi Barry replaced all three seals in my Herald diff over the Christmas period, it is really quite straightforward. Treat yourself to a bearing puller from machine mart, it is worth every penny. Whereabouts in the country are you. If you are close I will give you a hand. regards Andrew

Hello all i live in Derby and I nearly swerved off Ashbourne road at appprox 10.30 today and I saw a very nice red Herald coupe. If this is you please send me a PM as I would like to talk to you about it. Not many Herald in Derby. Regards Andrew

Hi Paul and Aidon the ones the club shop sell and other suppliers are not long enough, you can start the nipple in the UJ but then the nut part of the nipple fouls in the UJ And you cannot screw it in any further. And you cannot get a grease gun head on the nipple. What is needed is a nipple about three inches long so. A) the nipple will screw in fully and B ) ther is no fouling from the grease gun nozzle. Cannot think why no one has not had this problem before and a solution found. As I said I am going to cut the top of one nipple and the bottom off enougher and solder a piece of small diameter tubing in between. regards Andrew

Thanks Clive that is another story of trying to grease uj cannot find long nipples so I am experimenting with soldering two long nippleas together, watch this space Andre

Hi all according to the WSM there are three types of prob shaft fitted to Heralds. 1) strap type 2) sliding joint type 3) solid type. Can someone explain why there were three types and how each one compensates for movement between the gearbox and diff. The sliding joint type I understand and obviously the joint needs greasing. But what maintenance does the other two need. regrads Andrew