Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 The original switches have numbered terminals. In the photo below from top left going clockwise we have 1, 4, 6, 8, 7. From the Mk3 wiring diagramI have to hand. Terminal 4 should have a brown connection (12V in), terminal 8 red/white (dash lights), and terminal 7 red/green (to fuse for rear lights) and brown/red (to column switch). As the Mk1 doesn’t have this fuse, a pair of red/green instead of the two different colours makes sense, so best I can tell from the photo, looks like you’re missing the dash light connection on terminal 8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Anyone have a link to a Mk1 wiring diagram btw? My factory WSM just has Mk3 despite being for all roundtails! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 10 minutes ago, Josef said: Anyone have a link to a Mk1 wiring diagram btw? My factory WSM just has Mk3 despite being for all roundtails! I put a PDF scan o the mk1/2 wiring diagram in an earlier post in this thread it is on page 6-116 in the workshop manual 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 it is exactly the same as the mk3 except they change the colour of the wire to the column switch to brown/red which makes more sense as that is the colour of the wire in the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Ok so the Mk1 does have a fuse for the rear circuit then. The red/green wires run one to this fuse, and the other to a connector to a brown/red which then attaches to the column switch. The connector positions on the switch are the same though. Page 6-116 covers stripping down the Dynamo in the manual I have so clearly we have different ones @DanMi! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 4 minutes ago, Josef said: Ok so the Mk1 does have a fuse for the rear circuit then. The red/green wires run one to this fuse, and the other to a connector to a brown/red which then attaches to the column switch. The connector positions on the switch are the same though. Page 6-116 covers stripping down the Dynamo in the manual I have so clearly we have different ones @DanMi! sorry 6-112 and yes the sidelights are fused Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 3 minutes ago, DanMi said: sorry 6-112 and yes the sidelights are fused Yeah, just found it myself thanks. Of course it makes perfect sense to have half the diagrams in one part of the book and the other half somewhere else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 This is all good news! The switch terminal numbers now make sense and I can add them with the new colours codes to suit my car on the drawing I have, which is from the Haynes manual and is attached. For the normal headlight function the column switch is doing the right things now, as is the blue light. I'll try to sort out the flash wires next. The rear side lights and indicators are working fine. I haven't re-tried the brake lights yet though they were working before the re-spray.. I can't yet see an existing loose wire that would be for terminal 8 anywhere but I can find the exit from the steering column switch.Scan 2022-6-4 09.10.10.pdf. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 The drawing is a work in progress - not yet definitive for the whole car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 terminal 8 should have the red/white which I can see in the photo possibly on terminal 1 and does not go to the column switch it goes to the instrument lights It will work as you have it but not as intended, the way you have it the lights plus instrument lights will be on with both 1 and 2 pulls. It should be 1 pull is external lights and the 2nd pull adds instrument lights. I guess to save battery if leaving the sidelights on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 the spare from the column switch is for the permanent +ve feed for the flasher which will go to the inline fuse near the fuse box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 2 hours ago, Josef said: Of course it makes perfect sense to have half the diagrams in one part of the book and the other half somewhere else It's a result of how the manuals were written. What you have is a re-print of the final state of a ring-bound manual that was updated over the years by issuing new pages. It began life covering the Herald 1200, Vitesse 1600 and Spitfire Mk1. Then new models were launched and "supplements" were issued for them. So the diagrams for the original three models are in one place, the other diagrams in their respective supplement sections. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 The brown from the steering column switch was plugged into the same connector as the blue/white from the column - this connector plugs into the blue from the main loom as in the photos. I pulled the brown out of this connector and the lights still worked from the column side / dipped / main as you mention, so it seems the brown was in the wrong slot. However I then connected this brown to the live wire from the in-line fuse (which showed at least 12V) but still no headlight flash. Also all the gauges do have the red white wire to their bulbs and I've tightened up their earths but still no illumination. I'm very tempted to have a break from this! Refit the horns and do some other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 on youre botton pic you show a blue /red feeding the two Blue white not looked at the dwg. but that seems wrong it has a hint of white but 3 colours is unusual Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 33 minutes ago, Neil Clark said: Also all the gauges do have the red white wire to their bulbs and I've tightened up their earths but still no illumination. If you temporarily connect a wire from battery to the red/white wire on the master switch (disconnect it first) do the instrument lights come on? If yes, you've either got it on the wrong terminal of that switch, or the switch is faulty. If not, the problem is in the loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 To get the instrument lights working te red/white should be on terminal 8 and the switch pulled out 2 clicks. Blue/red is dipped and blue/white main so they should not be connected together. I would check for voltage at the switch and do check the bulbs as if they were on in a crash they could have blown the column switch should have 4 wires blue/white main beam connects to the blue/white in the loom blue/red dipped beam connects to the blue/red in the loom (you say yours are blue Brown/red this connects to the red/green from the main light switch I cannot see what the red/green is connecting to in the bottom pic brown/black this is the flash feed If your wires ore different colours then you will need to test continuity to work out which is which it looks like you have swapped main and dipped. connect all blue white together and blue red with the blues. I.e swap the blue/red and blue/white from the switch over which is what Pete spotted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 9 minutes ago, NonMember said: If you temporarily connect a wire from battery to the red/white wire on the master switch (disconnect it first) do the instrument lights come on? If yes, you've either got it on the wrong terminal of that switch, or the switch is faulty. If not, the problem is in the loom. No, they don't come on. I had them on the only other available spade before so there's nowhere else to go. I'll leave the dip as a lost cause for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 plus is it just that picture or is that blue/white burnt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Can you measure continuity between the red/white at the switch terminal and the centre contact for the instrument bulbs? All (standard!) red/white wires on the car should be connected together. So if there is continuity your bulbs may be at fault, if not there’s a broken connection in the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Just now, DanMi said: plus is it just that picture or is that blue/white burnt I thought that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Dan, the column lever is working correctly now on up for side / middle for dipped / down for main. The wire colours are confusing me but that function I am sure of! The flash feed and the dash lights seem to be more complicated. I'll leave the brown from the column loose for now and insulate it temporarily. That wire does look burnt but it's adhesive, they had wrapped tape around everything and I've stripped that off to try to see the wires. 15 minutes ago, DanMi said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 It should be middle for main and down for dipped, Though if your happy with how it is it works then no real issue .(I'm not sure that the way you have it doesn't make more sense than the original!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 8 minutes ago, Josef said: Can you measure continuity between the red/white at the switch terminal and the centre contact for the instrument bulbs? All (standard!) red/white wires on the car should be connected together. So if there is continuity your bulbs may be at fault, if not there’s a broken connection in the wiring. I'm getting frustrated to the point of ordering a new loom, even on 12 - 16 weeks. I bought second hand looms for kit cars but don't want all that hassle again. I can live with the dash lights and flasher inconveniences short term, I'll see if I can get the horn working so that I can use it on the local roads in order to run it in / adjust tracking / etc etc. The front near side suspension took a hammering, and the offside suspension arms, both of which I've re-built but who knows until everything can be checked. And it's summer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Clark Posted June 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Thanks Dan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 Of course the way you have it when you do get the flash working it will flash the dipped not the main. I do not think that there is anything fundamentally wrong with the loom but maybe you need someone with a bit more experience and a multimeter to take a look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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