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Herald 1200 Timing cover oil seal


Tom

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Hello, I’ve just fitted new timing sprockets and chain and then had a minor brain freeze when it came to the timing cover oil seal. I know 99% of the time the spring side faces in towards the oily side and the flat surface to the outside but I thought I’d double check!!!

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Well the timing cover is back on, Seal tapped in nice and firmly👍🏼 I’ve nipped up the pulley nut but thought I’d check the best way torque it up? I’m thinking 4th gear, handbrake on and wheels chocked? I don’t have a socket big enough for my torque wrench but do have a big old spanner about 14inches my grandad left me. I’m thinking tighten it as much with the said spanner and then tap it a few more degrees with a hammer?  I don’t want to risk damaging anything so thought I’d check my methodology here first!!

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No need to use a hammer with a spanner that long. Your method is ok, but no need to go mad as there is a risk of twisting the crankshaft. Presumably you used this method to remove it?

Some use Locktite for threads, but that can be a beggar to undo next time.

 

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I don`t actually know what the torque figure for the 1200 is?, (and unbelievably, the 1200 handbook does not specify it!!) but the 6 cyl, according to Haynes, is 90/100ft-lb. In which case 90lb near the end of 14" is still a big bag of sugar!.

"Flogging up". A time honoured method in heavy engineering circles, is at best inacurate, and more learned art than science.!! Calculation of the degree of turn to provide said torque involves many factors, including wether there is a washer between nut and face, 2 friction surfaces, the pitch of the thread, et:al, and is something I have long forgotton!!.

Pete.

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90lbs would be very approximately hanging onto the spanner with your upper body. If you have weights, hang 90lbs with the spanner horizontal, at the 12 inch point. That is 90lb ft.

It may be possible to make a 'Tab Washer'. Alternatively, mark the nut with paint on it and the shaft after tightening. You can then take a look periodically to observe any movement.

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many do not take into account that putting in gear and applying silly torqurs to the crank can overload the damper springs and clutch disc hub 

  1200 engine toque output is 61 - 75 lbft  so applying 90 lbft is overloading the drive line 

this needs to be in mind when gorilla's at work  the lack of tightening  torque specs for 1200/1300 is poor   in the 60s torqure control was in its infancy

there is a 150lbft for the blasted  nut on the 1500    but nowt showng for 1147/ 1294 engines  ...............  so  its do it nice hand tight 

after all it doesnt do that much 

Pete

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Thanks guys, I’m going with what I’ve done and the paint dots observation method 👍🏼
 

yes Pete that’s exactly what. i was worried about overloading the transmission with too much torque, I was worried about snapping a tooth of a gear, I hadn’t really considered the clutch!! I’m happy with it’s tightness.

Putting my newly obtained water pump housing with the threaded areas for temp sensors on tonight, some of you might recall me asking about coolant sensor positions and temp gauges in general a few weeks back? 

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