Nick Whitehead Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Help! Working to get the horns working on a Vitesse 2l Mk 2. Steering wheel press does not work, so I've tested them individually by connecting to a battery. One works and the other does not. Is there a way of knowing whether the high or low tone is the one that needs replacing so I can order a new one? I can't see any markings on the horn itself, and I can't tell just by listening to the one that works. In case it matters, the one on the left/kerb side of the bonnet (which also has the +ve feed coming from the fuse) is the one that's not working. Thanks, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 I think the letter L or H is cast just inside the trumpet of the horn to denote whether its high or low. The workshop manual describes the adjustment of the horn but says if it has failed repair is by replacement but this is not the case. Mine failed recently and I took them apart by drilling out the rivets, cleaned out the accumulated gunk of 50 years and reassembled with small nuts and bolts. Work fine and Ive kept an original component thats probably better quality than the after market items available.... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 16 minutes ago, johny said: I think the letter L or H is cast just inside the trumpet of the horn to denote whether its high or low. The workshop manual describes the adjustment of the horn but says if it has failed repair is by replacement but this is not the case. Mine failed recently and I took them apart by drilling out the rivets, cleaned out the accumulated gunk of 50 years and reassembled with small nuts and bolts. Work fine and Ive kept an original component thats probably better quality than the after market items available.... It is; you'll see the H or L on the bottom lip of the 'mouth'. I renovated a few a year or so back but the internals were often very rusty and fit for nothing but the bin. I cheated with my current Herald by just buying a set of moderns; a pair of Fiamm horns off a Mercedes cost me £8 and were actually very good quality; must have cost a lot more when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 takes me back to testing Truck horns at Mira in the late 60s we sampled 3 makes and as we couldnt hear any bought the cheapest thats quality control for you !!!! Ha Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Yep, repaired mine. Just drill out the rivets and look inside. Mine were full of crud. Switch cleaner and a gentle rub over sorted them out. Also check if you have an adjuster on the outside. I found them by accident under the muck. Solid, but freed off nicely. As with Johny, small nuts and bolts to reassemble, and a quick paint spray over having blocked up the trumpet to avoid glueing everything up with paint, and as good as new....and very loud!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Extra satisfying isnt it repairing something which is officially non-repairable👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Are they non-repairable?......oh!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 what Triumph said, and same for fuel sender and starter solenoid, all of which are now having a second life on my ol bus😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Recycling, great stuff. At least you know it's provenance 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Whitehead Posted September 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 Thanks all for your input. I am inspired to 'make-do-and-mend' based on your experiences. Horn that is 'broken' is only broken because the spade connector has fallen off. So I'm going to see if I can take it apart and bolt the connector back on... When I've got them both working, I'll start on why pushing the horn button does not provide the route to earth to make them sound... Onwards and upwards.. Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 37 minutes ago, Nick Whitehead said: Thanks all for your input. I am inspired to 'make-do-and-mend' based on your experiences. Horn that is 'broken' is only broken because the spade connector has fallen off. So I'm going to see if I can take it apart and bolt the connector back on... When I've got them both working, I'll start on why pushing the horn button does not provide the route to earth to make them sound... Onwards and upwards.. Nick I did just that with mine! I scavenged the terminals from a scrap coil and turned up some little brass threaded bits to hold them on (though nuts and bolts will work just as well, I just didn’t have anything of a suitable size!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 8, 2022 Report Share Posted September 8, 2022 This might let you know what to expect - download the very handy pdf file half way down for the official 'how to'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted September 9, 2022 Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 Quick read here might help a little.. https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2580-horn-unit-faulty/#comment-23941 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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