Herald Thermostat Housing / Elbow

[Jon J 1250]

Hi,

Does anyone know what size and thread type the hole is in the pre 1966 Herald thermostat Housing / Elbow.

The plug that I need isn't listed as a separate item in the Stanpart parts manual

Kind Regards
Jon

[Pete Lewis]

they were gerenaly a std 5/8" x 18tpi    unf thread 

Pete

[Jon J 1250]

Thanks Pete,

Mine used to have a temp sender in it and I want to keep my car original so I have to find a brass plug for it. I'm hopeful you can still buy them somewhere.

Jon

[Pete Lewis]

if stuck for supply   just why not use an old temp sender  ???

or  eg  (1) 5/8 x 18 unf plug - Bing images

think the std sump plug is 5/8" ???

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

20 minutes ago, Jon J 1250 said:

Thanks Pete,

Mine used to have a temp sender in it and I want to keep my car original so I have to find a brass plug for it. I'm hopeful you can still buy them somewhere.

Jon

Not sure about any brass plugs available but the plug from the waterpump housing is the same size (obviously!) so if you can find one of those or remove one from an old housing, it will blank the thermostat housing.

[Jon J 1250]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Not sure about any brass plugs available but the plug from the waterpump housing is the same size (obviously!) so if you can find one of those or remove one from an old housing, it will blank the thermostat housing.

Thanks Colin,

Assumed the original Triumph plugs were brass because my temp sender gland was, due you know if they were brass or steel.

Do you mean the plug on the side of the water pump like the one I have shown below. Looks like a steel plug, and a bit bigger than the one on the thermostat housing.

I'll see what I can find amongst my old spares, definitely have an old water pump housing from a Mk3 spit engine somewhere.

Jon

[Pete Lewis]

yes all those are the same thread 

Pete

[Jon J 1250]

So just thinking, I have this Moss dual temp/oil pressure gauge to go in to a nos vintage centre pod.
It has quite a long bulb and a 5/8" male thread gland fitting, so if I remove the plug from the side of the water pump housing (probably easier said than done) and relocate it on the top of thermostat housing.

I can then screw the new temp sender in to the side of the water pump without needing to worry about the length of the bulb, and presumably will need one of these 5/8" male to 5/8" female fitting to make the seal on the bulb taper.?

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/adaptor_5_8_in_unf_for_water_temperature_sender_070_017

[Colin Lindsay]

This is the way the standard sensor fits:

There certainly looks to be enough room across that housing, provided you can make yours seal.

[Jon J 1250]

8 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

This is the way the standard sensor fits:

There certainly looks to be enough room across that housing, provided you can make yours seal.

Thanks Colin,

Looks like yours is fitted to the rearmost tapping on the side of the water pump housing, mine does not have one, only the front one which looks like in your photo has a twin carb inlet manifold water feed attached.

Presumably both tappings are 5/8"?

Regards
Jon

[Colin Lindsay]

Both the same thread and size; this is the 13/60 which has the water hose connected to the other tapping. I replaced it with a late 1200 housing on the other car and just removed the blanking plug - it had two as well. They're both in the same place, and level, so where it fits on one side should mirror the other; hence your single tapping housing should be fine, too.

[Pete Lewis]

yes you will need an adaptor to seat the bulb  and take care the longer bulb does not interfere with the  thermostat internals 

i have aselection of that type but never needed to install any  just used as a temperature checker 

one is a twin unit  used on testing  truck  for top and bottom radiator  tank temperatures ..so it sits in the cupboard of bits and peices

Pete

[NonMember]

My Vitesse used to have one of those twin gauges. The temperature bulb adapter wouldn't seal in the pump housing, and attempting to tighten it cracked the casting. Attempting to remove it, for transfer to a replacement housing, revealed that the bulb was rusted solid into the adapter, and turning it broke the capilliary. I now have a standard electrical temperature gauge.

[Jon J 1250]

At last! Finally got my fittings sorted out for the dual gauge with capillary bulb sender.

This NOS MK1 spitfire housing came up for sale so bought that and this means I can get the sender bulb in without spacing it out to avoid the thermostat as would be required with the top entry housing.

The fitting is a 5/8" UNF parallel thread in case anyone needs to know in future.

The capillary bulb has a 5/8 UNF male backnut (note some have female threads) which will seal the bulb by compression into this fitting once done up.

 

JJ

[Puglet1]

Nice one !

[Colin Lindsay]

Looks good; always great when a solution appears!

[Jon J 1250]

Thanks Colin, absolutely.

Got straight on with fitting it after work, just to the old gauge for now, very happy with that. 👍

 

Edited May 17, 2023 by Jon J 1250

[Peter Truman]

I've used the same thermostat cover for the electric rad fan auto cut in/out switch with brass male/female fitting to ensure the switch bulb doesn't interfere with the thermostat., all works well