Josef Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 Can you use one old and one new thrust washer? (I don’t know the spec but I assume you’re asking cause it should be a bit tighter?) My needle roller set bought six months to a year back was also missing two rollers… They came in separate packets so guess someone can’t count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 3 minutes ago, Josef said: Can you use one old and one new thrust washer? Yeah I could do that, but that would also require to grind a bit from the backside. I'll resume tomorrow, thanks for your input! Good night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 Measure the thickness of the old rollers with a micrometer and pick out the two biggest ones (you can compare their size with the new ones)... I dont like the look of either of the old thrust washers as they have done quite a few kilometers so think it best to take some metal off the back of the bigger of the new ones. This shouldnt be too difficult as the steel is soft and you can use a piece of emery cloth (abrasive sheet) held on a flat surface and carefully rub the thrust washer on it. Measure its thickness all the way round to make sure youre doing it evenly and obviously stop when youve reached the correct size - measure the gap from laygear to case with feeler gauges to calculate this👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 I’d managed to not see the post with the pictures of the thrust washers, or the one where the spec was quoted… I agree with Johny that they look too worn to be reused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 before you start Daniel you could check the thickness of the new thrusts as Rimmers say they should be the same as the manual indicates which is: 1.676 - 1.727mm small washer 3.124 - 3.175mm large washer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 I know I'm harping back to the Syncro Rings & apologize for hijacking the current thread, but I have 2 new old supply PN 148409 rings I believe Stanpart as they are inbossed with the number, the internal machining is very sharp as expected with machined brass. Unfortunately one has some damage looks like something has eaten into the rings at 6 o'clock. Question do the brainstrust/members think it's serviceable pic attached, . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 well I suppose the proof is in how well it 'bites' onto a cone so you could try that manually but Id be surprised if it wasnt perfectly useable. Also just noticed that the damage is on the part of the ring that will come into use very late on, if ever, in its life as its on the trailing edge of the grooves so another reason for it being nothing to worry about👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 I measured the endfloat of the 2nd and 3rd gear on their bushes. Thats the third, isn't it? LHS I have 0.01mm, RHS: 0mm. The ruler appears to hang somehow. In any case: there is not endfloat 😞 The second? No endfloat at all here 😞 I've checked that bushes flush with the lower shoulder of the gear, supported by a few coins. What the heck?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 If youre sure of the measurements (the end float is only 0.051 - 0.152mm) looks like you need new bushes. Rimmers have 147354 and I THINK theyre the same for all models of gearbox or perhaps you could use the ones in the other gearbox? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 and its really better to fit the gear /bush to the mainshaft with the thrust spacers in place so you are checking it as an assembly not just bush in a gear its the spacers and assembled shaft that determine the end floats not just the fit of the bush in the gear Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 I dont know Pete, according to the manual each bush should be slightly longer that the gear it fits in. With care this should be measureable and if not present the set up once on the shaft is never going to be right🙁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 Could use a micrometer on the bushes at least to see if their length is within tolerance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 i dont read manuals Ha ! never had a box with duff float yet and also they upgraded from bronze to steel bushed later in life I have a box full somewhere i could see if the length varies but its too cold up the shed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 I take it if the bush is shorter than the gear theres a risk it will spin on the shaft with the gear rather than just the gear spinning on the bush as per design.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 4 minutes ago, johny said: I take it if the bush is shorter than the gear theres a risk it will spin on the shaft with the gear rather than just the gear spinning on the bush as per design.... Did you notice the surfaces on the two gears? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 Yes looks like one has some pitting but ok. There will always be wear marks on the face of the gear even if the bush is longer as the gear is free to slide along up against the thrust washer. However dont forget we are talking about when the gear isnt in use and just spinning with no load - when selected it becomes locked to the output shaft to transmit the drive and the bush is no longer in use (well apart from absorbing radial thrust)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted December 16, 2022 Report Share Posted December 16, 2022 I use the scrolled washer that fits on the end of the mainshaft closest to the input shaft. Sit that on top of a socket and put the gear and bush on top of that. A coin does not have a flat surface so you may be introducing error there. And of course your bushes may be worn. The box I rebuilt that I would judge as having had very high mileage by the state of some of the gears needed new 2nd/3rd bushings as the end float was too low. I think I might’ve had Mick Dolphin’s last NOS ones though I’m afraid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2022 Evening all 🙂 I've retrieved the bushes from the original non-OD box, the lengths of them distributes from 0.999in to 1.001in. I've checked the end floats of the gears with the longer bushes and, voilà, it is now excatly 0.05mm (0.002in). YAY 😉 Overall endfloat on the main shaft is in spec: 0.15mm 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Evening, Each side of the counter shaft has 25 needles now: End-float is ca. +0.15mm The input shaft has been assembled with oil thrower, new bearing and circlip. The old synchronized ring for the fourth gear has enough flesh on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Main shaft is populated with gears, bushes, washers and the final circlip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Reverse gear looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Main shaft is in the box, thrust washer is in place: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Rollerbearing main shaft/input shaft is on: Everything is in the box now: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 Before I raise the counter shaft and drive in the front/bearings...did I forget anything? 😉 Let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 your reverse idler is still on its side you have to fit the input shaft then lift the cluster next time fit the string into the box overlap the case sides drop the cluster in on top of the string a lot easier than fiddling it round to lift the cluster when everything is in place Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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