johny Posted December 20, 2022 Report Share Posted December 20, 2022 Maybe this is due to the large tip having less 'shoulder' than the small tip because the diameters are much more similar and so a spacer/packer is needed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Ok guys, I am stuck. I am going to send my mainshaft and the suspicious input shaft to my Triumph specialist. Merry Christmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Hi again, had a look at the repaired mainshaft tip (see my other thread: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/10903-another-worn-mainshaft-tip/)...I believe I know the root cause of the trouble...can you see it, too? Hint: It's a 5-lettre German word... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 6 minutes ago, DanielH said: Hi again, had a look at the repaired mainshaft tip (see my other thread: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/10903-another-worn-mainshaft-tip/)...I believe I know the root cause of the trouble...can you see it, too? Hint: It's a 5-lettre German word... That's what she said... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 I`m puzzled?. Surely the running surface would have been (at least) heat treated and/or re-hardened?. In my experience, you would not run needle bearings on an un-treated surface, the wear rate would surely be too great. (I assume I am right in thinking Weich, translates as Soft?) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 The heat treating is the hard part (no pun intended) so maybe someone has just turned up a sleeve and hoped for the best but as you say not a long term solution☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted December 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Morning, yeah, when I discussed the job with the machinist, he told me he would heat treat the new sleeve. Sent it back to him. The shop is reputated in Germany's spitfire community. We are going to sort it out 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 The problem is that if youre going to stick with the standard 1/2 - 3/4 inch bearing you have to reduce the tip quite a lot to fit a suitable sleeve. This has been done before and the tip then snapped off under load☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 Hi there, happy new year! I guess I am lucky: the machinist replaced the botched mainshaft with another one, which has a hardened tip: The overall endfloat of the old bushes on the new mainshaft is still in spec (0,15mm). As soon as I've got a new main bearing (the new one really suffered from being inserted thrice), I am going to resume assembly. Greetings 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 Yes the main bearings (or any ball race bearing) should really be moved only using force on the appropriate race and thats how the correct Triumph tools do it.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 4 hours ago, johny said: Yes the main bearings (or any ball race bearing) should really be moved only using force on the appropriate race and thats how the correct Triumph tools do it.... Yes, I think I remember that there was one bearing (main shaft?) that was removed by whacking the shaft through it, while still housed in the casing (Haynes info). Don't know how the correct tool works? Mine was Particulary tight and assumed this hadn't done it much good. After dismantling it, I decided to get it rebuilt by Mike Papworth anyway, as I had him do a couple of upgrades to improve reliability and also didn't want to mess about with it any more if anything not quite right, as I have no experience of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 the churchill patern drag has large collets that fit in the groove of the removed brg circlip and drag the brg.up the shaft the base drag was used by many makes there is one in the club museum and they are shown in the WSManuals but a drift and mallet to remove and a hammer to refit is the normal DIY without any drama Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 Hi there, the gearbox project advances...I've prepared a homemade Churchill tool which facilitates pressing the bearing onto the shaft: Soo, everything is in place and turns, and I can switch the gears without loosing synchro balls, which is good: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 I tested the 1st gear. With the 1st gear engaged, I noticed that the reverse idler remains engaged with the reverse gear, although the idler is in the "park position". Is that intended??? 🤔 🤔 🤔 20230108_165223.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 I dont think so and this is a subject that has been discussed in detail previously - have you changed any of the reverse idler gear components including its operating arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 think the concensus is the relay arm gets a set and will need a careful re straightening but wear in the top cover fork/ward can contribute as its the ward./ fork thats controls the neutral position of the reverse idler lever whether its bent or not if its the length of the spacer on the shaft then you can reduce it /extend it to repos the full travel of the idler Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 The teeth of the reverse idler have a length of ca. 0.53in. The colar of the 1st/2nd-synchro unit is shorter than that: So I guess there is no lever setting that prevents the idler to be engaged with the synchro unit's gear. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 8, 2023 Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 Heres a photo from a previous thread which appears to show no contact of the idler gear but if your gearbox came with the measurements you have recorded then it will have to spin with 1st gear. This maybe some thing Triumph accepted with later gearboxes because I believe there were problems with idler gear teeth failures... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 15, 2023 Report Share Posted January 15, 2023 Is Daniel’s idler gear the right one? The one in the photo Johny posted looks like I remember, it has noticeable bevelled edges which will help in clearing the surrounding gears. Hard to see from Daniel’s video but the teeth look much straighter sided? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2023 Hello, my idler looks like that (see foto below). Length of the teeth is ca. 0.53in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 15, 2023 Report Share Posted January 15, 2023 Looking at Rimmers that seems to be the earlier 144580 21 tooth gear while the photo I posted previously is the later UKC8750 17 tooth item.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2023 19 hours ago, johny said: Looking at Rimmers that seems to be the earlier 144580 21 tooth gear while the photo I posted previously is the later UKC8750 17 tooth item.... yeah, it has got 21 teeth. So I guess, I've got the correct one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted January 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 Hi there, I'd love to resume working on my OD but the clutch is being helt up since 5 days in the UK mail...due to the export service disruption. What do you guys think, should the royal mail pay the ransom? Posting a random foto of my OD innards in the meantime... greetings Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielH Posted February 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 Hi there, you won't believe it, but it is true: my parcel containing the relined overdrive clutch is still stuck somewhere in the royal mail export pipeline between UK and Germany due to the security breach in early January 😞 And guess what: the gentleman who dispatched the parts doesn't really bother. As a foreigner I cannot file a claim with RM. It has been 4 weeks since David has dispatched my overdrive clutch. The tracking status has not changed since he dropped off the parcel at the post office there in Rugby. How would you deal with that? greetings Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2023 Report Share Posted February 15, 2023 bit like being a early apprentice being sent down th tool stores for a Long weight (Wait ) hope the hold up resolves soon we just had a card rom Australia posted 23 November arrived this week 12th Feb must be using a rowing boat Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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