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Herald 1200 Speedometer Removal - Tips & Tricks !?!


Colin

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Hi folks,

I'm in the process of removing the dashboard - the lacquer or varnish has cracked badly, peeling away in several places and needs to be sanded back and lacquer renewed.

Everything's straight forward - but of course the speedo must be drawn out and there's a lot going on on the back of it and the fuel gauge.

I have to say I don't have much working space, so I'm squeezing through a half-open door and twisting and turning up and under the dash to get to all the bits.

I'm at the stage where the bracket fittings are out and most of the push-in, pull-out light bulb fittings are off and out, fuel gauge connections and earth is off its connections and screw threads, and am labelling stuff up as I go. And I was sensible enough to have a pic or two on my mobile of how it was before removal for reference.

It mostly seems loose and ready to come out into the cabin . . . . so I can then get to the connections on the top of the speedo . . . but seems to be baulking at the bottom.

I am guessing this is because the fuel gauge must be removed?? Can anybody confirm?

Tiny nuts on tiny screw threads either side of the gauge unit, by the looks??

Is there any mileage in my unbolting the dash stay (getting in the way of my chubby hands and increasingly porky bod being able to twist and access the things)?

Christmas cheers to All.

C.

 

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It should come out without the gauge being removed, but yes it's two tiny nuts with spring washers for the fuel gauge. It should pull out from the top, so that when the top is out you can then lift upwards to clear the fuel gauge. Sometimes the voltage stabiliser means you have to lift and tilt slightly, but it should come out. 

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Thanks Colin;

(Again 'notification on' not alerting me to your reply - soz)

Just thinking overnight . . . I guess the other way, is, having marked up all the cabling on the back of the speedo and with every other dash element dismantled, remove all cabling connections and lamps from the speedo and take the dash off with speedo still fixed in?

Then take off on bench . . . 

Not that I have done it this way so far . . . !! 

Thanks for the advice - I'm at the stage where it is looking as if it'll move forward into the cabin at its top but still reluctant at the bottom.

However, I still have the top (voltage stabiliser?) wiring unit cabling to mark up and remove- and that might make things easier . . . 

Thanks again!

Best,

C.

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Yes, you can do it that way, but check that the clamps aren't clamping to the dash surround, rather than the wood, and also if there's a metal securing ring fitted all the way round which will also prevent it coming out. If that's the case you'll have to decide whether or not to remove the padded surround as well. Last one I removed (yesterday) was stuck into the dash due to the rubber seal / gasket having perished and softened like glue. That's also the choice when refitting; assemble the dash off the car and then replace as one unit.

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Hi Colin.

Thanks. Just going in again!

Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!)

Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! 

Best,

C.

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Hi Colin.

Thanks. Just going in again!

Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!)

Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! 

Best,

C.

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Two options with choke cable; if there's a small hole in the underside of the black knob then a blunt point inserted there will press a spring, so that the knob can be pulled off and the rest of the choke asembly pushed back through the dash. Otherwise, undo at carb and pull the inner choke cable through into the cabin before again undoing the silver bezel at the front and pushing the outer assembly back through. 

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if the knob has the push button pip to realease the knob then undo the bezel and poke the unit back thro the hole 

if it only has aback nut then this has to be unscrewed with more sticky plasters at the ready and pull the whole cable thro the hole 

tip if you remove heater or  choke cables to aid refit through the heater plenum as the holes are off set before pulling the cables out  feed a length of tube up the cable and thro' the gromets  makes refitting easy 

Pete

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Thanks chaps:- please see pics.Inside cabin shows knob (yes, has sprung loaded knob-taking-off hole. But as can be seen, no chrome bezel to unscrew. Then, the dash underside view shows it looking as ic the only removal option is disonnection from carb and pull back through. Fly in the ointment is (engine bay view), some kind of outer cable sheath 'repair(?) that I can only hope will come through the cabin dash hole . . . 

Am I right to think this is the only route forward in the case of its fitting in this circumstance? 

Best,

C.

PS Colin:- pic of the speedo out of dash. In v good nick. I mistakenly undid the gauge needle fittings and spade connectors. Did 'em back up under the dash in the car. When it was out I re-referred to my photo brfore dismantling and have re-positioned. As far as I can see, neither side of the gauge connections touches its metal body. Both are isolated by the shielding washers, body side of the tower nut. Correct?? 

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13 minutes ago, Colin said:

PS Colin:- pic of the speedo out of dash. In v good nick. I mistakenly undid the gauge needle fittings and spade connectors. Did 'em back up under the dash in the car. When it was out I re-referred to my photo brfore dismantling and have re-positioned. As far as I can see, neither side of the gauge connections touches its metal body. Both are isolated by the shielding washers, body side of the tower nut. Correct?? 

Correct; the only thing the case does is to earth bulbs etc so gauges are isolated.

...and yes, one of THOSE chokes so undo the nut from behind. Tentacles are a great help.

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If either of you/anybody has a clue how to undo that nut, I'd be well pleased!!

I could take the entire lot from the engine bay back through the cabin when the rest of the dash comes off then disassemble on the bench - but I don't think that cable 'join' in thd engine bay could be drawn back through the bulkhead . . . 

I don't think it'll go through though. 

I may have to try this - thd nut looks inaccessible to me from under the dash right now - just been trying. Not enough room round the back of the nut for pliers, adjustable, ring or any other type of spanner! 

At least I could always enlarge the bulkhead cable hole to take the entire cable back through. Then simply use a bigger blanking plug on reassembly?

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Many thanks! 

Just dug the grommet out of the bulkhead. And just pulled the 'join' apart a bit. Clearly this has been done before! 

I'll undo that 'join' - then I should be pretty much there! Keep you posted!!

Thanks for your minute to minute guiding. Gaining a lot of confidence as I go!!  Just never want to start an activity I can't fixed!! 

Best,

C.

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Chaps:- it's OUT!! Many, many, thanks to you for guiding me through the last (for me) dodgy stages of that process.

Years ago, it started cracking around the interior heater flap knob which has always been stiff (very) at one point in its movement. Everywhere else it has also started to separate from its veneer. Pics.

Cheers,

Colin.

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I know its a bit late now, but having the same amount of garage space to work in, whilst replacing the revcounter cable on my Vit, I managed to disconnect all connections using an old compact mirror ( donated by SHMBO) and a magnetic work light whilst sitting in the drivers seat. Much more comfortable!

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TriGolf:- Very sensible!! Pete:- I'm so glad you shared that you don'r iron your underpants. I was hoping for a suitable space to endorse that apathy - me neither (or my wife!)

Remiss of me not to have said "Happy Christmas" to you all and to thanks you for all your help.

Having stupidly watched the Magnificent 7 on TV, I'm deffo lining work of some kind to do over the next "festive" period!!

Cheers to All.

C.

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