Heater Direction Control Cable Outer Guide/Sheath

[Paulfc]

Hi,

Can anyone please advise me if the steel outer guide/sheath can:

a) still be purchased

b) if, yes, where from

c) easily cut to length

d) removed by simply pulling

Ideally I want to trim back the existing one (see image) is this doable?
 

As ever, thanks.

[NonMember]

1 hour ago, Paulfc said:

Ideally I want to trim back the existing one (see image) is this doable?

It should be, if all you want is to clean up the end bit. Pull the inner back so it's clear of where you want to cut, then use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or Dremel. Use lots of speed and not much pressure.

[Pete Lewis]

if  a cutting disc is not available its fine if you support  the outer in a vice and cut with a fine toothed junior hacksaw  

the case is just a spral wound but is quite hardened   take it slow and smooth 

dont be tempted to use side cutters  that can crush and leave a very sharp rough end 

if you get stuck and need a replacement  use a push bike brake cable . just refit your old inner stiff wire 

i guess this is for your mk3 GT6  

Pete

[Paulfc]

Thanks guys for your advice. Used a Dremel with a cutting disc. Funny how you sometimes never think logically about problems.

Pete,

It was for the heater control on my TR6. The GT6 remains a work in progress but, hopefully, before too long I’ll have it up and running.

Thanks again.

Paul

[Peter Truman]

I think I mentioned on another thread I'd made a new Heater Cable Assembly for the daughters Mk2 Spit,, from an Aftermarket bonnet cable as it had a piano wire inner cable, cost $20. Why in Aus would she want an operational Heater Cable? but as she's moving 350klm away to a holiday area I thought it was time as maintenance would be less frequent & I had the Heater assembly sans cable. I have enough inner and outer cable to make (made) another push/pull cable assembly, but will I ever need it?

The outer sheath had to be cut to length and soldered into the Triumph push/pull knob assembly, as was the actual inner cable, the outer sheath was cut to length using a Dremmel cutting disc, and internal deburred at the end using a small used worn down Dremmel grinding wheel. Oh I used heat shrink on the outer cable for effect and possible insulation under the dash.

As holding the nut on the cable clamp under the valve was hard with my big fingers I put a 6mm Rivnut in, and as the Heater Valve is a Delanney, which has a 90 degree bend in the cable inner to connect with the lever I decided to make a removable cable pin complete with a threaded bottom end to ensure it doesn't pull out of the heater valve lever, all bits from the Truman's useless bits store.