Paulfc

What an excellent and outstanding rebrand/remodelling/relaunch of the Courier! And all best wishes to Paul Guinness in the editorship role. Thanks to all who put in the hard work to produce and create the “new” house/Club magazine.

I don’t remember “Tyersoles” but often visited Birkenhead market with my Dad to buy leather for him to repair the family’s shoes. You could also buy rubber stick-on soles with the resplendent name of “R-Soles”!

I’ve had my 6 since 2019. Limited use over the winter when I tend to service/uprate/modify and generally tinker. I try to take it out at least once a month for a run but occasionally it sits for a couple months between startings. As an example, I started it last night having replaced the tachometer cable and, as I probably won’t be able to take it for a run for at least a week or so, wanted to ensure all was well. It was previously out and about mid December. Switched on the ignition and let the Bosch pump prime for 30 seconds, pulled the “choke” fully out and it fired first time. The 30 second prime period definitely seems to make a difference. Also, as has been mentioned, a “cheap” trickle charger is an excellent investment. Paul

Hi Chris, Thank you for the advice. Paul

As I work around the underside of the car I use Gravitex on wheel arches, chassis etc. overpainting whatever is there having first cleaned away oil, grease and the like. The car doesn’t get a huge amount of use and this approach suits my driving regime and, I have to say, I find Gravitex really good. It does dry matt black. I have some minor damage to the black stonechip that’s exposed bare metal on the lower sills which I may cover with Gravitex. Can anyone please advise me if I do this, and maybe also the entire under sill, can I overpaint it, and with what, to achieve a gloss finish? Thanks

Out of genuine interest, does anyone know (and can explain) how this is achieved? Paul

Hi Stu, I’m not a Herald owner but if you google vitessesteve you’ll find access to an extensive resource of all things Triumph, and more besides. Depending what you help yourself to consider dropping Steve a donation. Paul

Apologies if this has been referred to elsewhere: there’s a really interesting piece in the November issue of practical CLASSICS on the topic of synthetic fuel. Maybe all is not doom and gloom. Paul

Thanks all. My original loom definitely has some spade connectors that are slightly larger or smaller than modern equivalents. No matter though, as I’ve opted to “chop and change” where necessary.

Thanks Colin. I’ll dig around for a little longer before reaching for the cutters.

Is it possible to still buy imperial sized male/female/piggyback etc. connectors? Don’t want to start chopping and re-ending things unless I have to. Thanks, Paul

If you are a Windows user and keep the OS up to date it’s pretty robust from a security perspective. Of course, there are absolutely no guarantees against rogue operators but sensible precautions will generally keep you safe. I, too, got caught with a security software provider and it took me quite sometime to extricate myself from their “contract” and ended up giving them almost twelve months notice and then ignoring the bombardment of FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) messages telling me all sorts of catastrophes that were about to befall me if I didn’t renew. OS security won’t, of course, keep you safe from Mail scams but common sense will go a long way to keeping safe.

Great to see it coming together. Paul

Steve, Glad you’re on your way to sorting it. Life’s never dull with a Triumph! Paul

Steve, I measured mine and it’s ~ 184mm. I then dug out from deepest recesses of my garage the original box that’s still attached to a section of original cross member and it’s the same - see image. You may like to try this technique to align the boxes on the cross member. I was taught this by a a guy who has restored many small chassis Triumphs and is still doing so. If you’re familiar with it my apologies. Get a piece of straight timber no less than 18mm thick and about 140mm deep and about 900mm long. Mark the centre point of the length. From there mark either side at approx. 349mm, this being the centres for the bolts that the bonnet hinges on. Drill two holes in the timber for each box and bolt the boxes to the timber. Test, measure and adjust until you’re happy the two boxes are aligned the same on the timber. You’ve then got them laterally positioned and can position them on the cross member both at the same time and adjust etc. Providing the cross member is straight and at the correct height you should be able to get them within the stated tolerances. Obviously you can clamp and tack weld them before removing the timber. Hope this helps and let’s know how you get on. If this doesn’t make sense please let me know and I’ll try and clarify. Paul