Aidsaunders Posted October 1, 2023 Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 I have some new seals for the units and they are considerably thicker than the original ones. I know that the originals are compressed but at 4mm thick, they’re half the thickness of the new ones at 8mm thick. I don’t want to be damaging my lights whilst trying to get the lenses and bezel on. I have the original screws and they don’t protrude beyond the seal. Anyone else experienced this? Seals are from Rimmer Bros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrishawley Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 Presumably you bought original part number 154049 gaskets of which each side light unit has two; one between the lens and the light body and one between the light body and the metalwork - or perhaps fibreglass in the event of FG valances. . 8mm is rather chunky and 5mm would be more like it and they should be a really soft, compressible, foam. Rimmers, however, are not the masters of getting details right. But I'm wondering if the snag here is sometghing slightly different. In particular; the screws which fix the escutcheon and lens do not also fix the whole unit to the valance. The body of the unit is (originally) attached to the valance with two no.10 unf screws going into two caged nuts egde-clipped to the aperture. After fitting the bulbs the outer gasket lens and escutcheon are then attached with the two (originally) filister chrome head screws - just long enough to engage with the body but not going through the body more than a couple of turns . In the event of FG valances the first bit of fixing (no.10s and cage nuts) has to be achieved with a workaround - but there's enough options of J-nuts and self tappers, or lug nuts with a screwed thread to enable this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aidsaunders Posted December 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2023 I’ve created this cutting guide for the seals. First try highlighted the need for an extremely sharp blade which is also very pointed, a scalpel. My Stanley, even with a brand new blade, not suitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aidsaunders Posted December 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2023 My grey seal, RB black seal. Mine is better at the long thin sections. Just need to sort the correct material, the grey stuff is just for testing. Anyone found something suitable? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 have you looked at wet suit material ? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 (edited) Wet suit material, if unlined, is "open cell", it allows the material to fill with water, so will hold water next to your paint all the time. Better go for "closed cell" rubber. But I use solid rubber sheet. John Edited December 16, 2023 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aidsaunders Posted December 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 John, solid rubber? Not a foam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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