jondhm Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 I will be removing the gearbox on my GT6 Mk3 soon for rebuilding and a new clutch. There is a bad engine oil leak from the rear of the engine - do I need to remove the engine to deal with this, or is it possible to get at it from inside the car? The key question is probably whether the sump needs to be dropped - if so, it is an engine out job and I'll need to get a garage to do it as I don't have the space or equipment. And at the same time I'll replace the big and main bearing shells plus the thrust washers and oil pump. Many thanks John M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Its gearbox and flywheel off to get at the seal housing are you sure its the seal, very common that the sump bolts have been stripped in the seal carrier base same as the seal plate at the front main wrong bolts into a ally get bottomed out and strip steel bridges are avail for the front but the rear seal carrier is helicoil/ tap oversize /or replace do a careful seach of the leak, dry it all off and give it a good coat of talc powder this will show the trace pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 The sump can be dropped without taking the engine out. As I recall I undid the driver's side engine mount and jacked the engine up a couple of inches which enabled me to wiggle the sump out over the chassis cross member. It's likely the aluminium bridge will have it's threads stripped and I'd replace it with a steel one, I think the club shop have them. Also you will need new wooden shims (Yes that's right, wooden!). http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-engine-unit-cylinder-block-liners-oil-pressure-switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jondhm Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Many thanks for the advice. I'll have a good look at the source of the leak, but am pretty certain it is the seal - having owned the car for 40 years I am virtually certain it has never been changed. I don't even think the sump bolts have ever been tightened, so the threads should be fine. But the possibility of stripped threads is making me think this is probably a garage job anyway. The next issue will be finding a garage near me in West London. Chiswick Car Craft closed down last year when Mike retired. I have had a word with people at the Ace Cafe on the classics nights, but most are determined DIYers - as I am on most jobs. I now get my MOTs carried out at The Jaguar Workshop which is 0.5 miles from where I live, but they focus on Jags, obviously. I'll just have to call it my poor man's E-Type! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 When replacing the rear oil seal, do remember there is room for adjustment. I think the WSM method is fit loosely and measure with a feeler gauge to centralise and then tighten when even, but there may be other ways of doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 if you are taking the gearbox off for clutch change you can easily carry on take the flywheel off and remove the seal housing from inside the car, plus a few sump bolts on the rear flange new seal and a good clean add copious sealer at the sump face and bottom hsg corners and the jobs a good one yes Darrens on the ball , the seal need centralising I sure it will sit central with the new seal , some card cut to the circumference of the journal should work to tighen the fit but I think it will all go together without complication Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jondhm Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Brilliant. Many thanks, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted February 20, 2016 Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 Try and get a genuine oil seal the new ones are not of high quality, also watch out for a groove in the seal face on the crank, if there is one ( probably will be) fit the seal in a slightly different place 1/2mm is plenty so it doesn't rip the edge off the seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jondhm Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi Hugh Thanks for the hint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 If you do have a groove in the crank, you could always fit a Speedi-sleeve http://www.skf.com/uk/products/New-Market-Offers/SKF-SPEEDI-SLEEVE-new-generation.html Used one these on the front of the crank, worked a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 just to front up Daren's suggestion, we used this on all new front and rear truck axles on production as a wear sleeve , later developement was a cassette which was seal and running bush all as a unit, brilliant but removing hubs required a new seal assy, as it pulled apart on strip down. but wear sleeves are very useful and cheap professional repairs Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Just found these pictures of the speedi-sleeve I took when fitting, forgot I had them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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