Mack Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Hello all, My cylinder head is not wanting to come off so am going to remove the studs to help it along. I have read that the ARP studs are good but can be a bit short. Has anyone had any experience fitting them? I cant seem to find detailed specs. Failing that would ordering from Canleys be a good bet for standard ones? Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Really strange as its only been on 10k miles hasnt it? Will the studs need replacing if you take them out? Never heard of any problems with any studs and if youre not going racing I would have thought standard items will be fine especially being a mk2 engine (thicker studs)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 2 Author Report Share Posted April 2 (edited) I'm not sure how many miles it's been since the rebuild to be honest, it was about 10 years ago as far as I know. I'm struggling to get the studs out with the double method so might resort to a stud extractor, which probably won't the studs in the best condition. I'll be giving them a good dose of plus gas each evening and hopefully have more luck getting them out this weekend. Edited April 2 by Mack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Just thought have you tried giving them a few taps into the head? Dont want to damage the thread but it might just break them free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 There's no need for the expense of ARP studs on a road going engine. If the existing studs are in good condition, without worn threads, they can be reused. If in doubt, fit new original style studs. It's a good idea to fit new nuts in case of wear, they're not expensive. Whatever you decide about studs and nuts, make certain to use the correct washers beneath each nut. Ordinary washers can compress and spread under the torque required for the cylinder head. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 2 Author Report Share Posted April 2 Thanks for the replies. I have previously ordered some head nuts and washers from Canleys so will just get some studs from them aswell. I will persevere with getting the head off without damaging them first though. I'm giving them a tap when I spray on the plus gas as I understand that helps the lubrication get down the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Unfortunately you really need a cup round the protuding stud to hold penetrating oil so that it can really soak down over time. Plasticine or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 A couple of tips when refitting the head studs... Always make sure the threads in the block are clean, and fit the studs only finger tight in the block. Over tightening the studs can raise the block surface around the stud holes, causing the head gasket to leak. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 3 Author Report Share Posted April 3 Thanks Johny, good idea. I'll give that a try! And thanks for the refitting tips Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 3 Report Share Posted April 3 i have always used a chuck/3 jaw stud extractor with impact gun or a 3 ft breaker bar even on Dougs stuburn studs Laser 3986 Impact Stud Extractor - Machine Mart - Machine Mart it is normally corrosion between stud and head ,i have in the past got the head to raise enough to slide a hacksaw blade in ,(protect faces with a bit of cornflake packet) cut the stud and punch the stud remains out of the head the threaded remains often undo with the fingers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 5 Author Report Share Posted April 5 Success! Head is finally off. I had to remove most of the studs but most came out ok with the double nut method. I had to use an extractor like the one Pete mentioned to get the last to hold outs. Then wedged a piece of 2x4 between the lip of the head and the floor and gently lowered the car down and it lifted slightly. Thanks for all the help on this and my previous thread. Now to order some more studs and get the blighter back on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 5 Report Share Posted April 5 Great, now youve got to decide where to source the gasket and its installation method😶 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5 Report Share Posted April 5 if you find you have a recessed block do not get a Payen gasket see my post on the troubles we encountered the gasket from canley classics was perfect Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 5 Author Report Share Posted April 5 I dont have a recessed block but I ordered a gasket from Canley's having read your post. The one that arrived is from Payen so let's hope the flat ones fit better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5 Report Share Posted April 5 then best of luck keep us updated Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 5 Report Share Posted April 5 I believe some people recommend sealant on the gasket around the oil transfer port - sure there posts on here discussing the subject... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted April 6 Report Share Posted April 6 I always put a thin smear of Hylomer on both sides of the gasket ring for the oil port. Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 6 Report Share Posted April 6 Before reassembly, Remember to check that the cylinder head surface is perfectly flat. If the head is warped, it will need a light skim, or the new gasket won't last long. The pushrod side of the gasket is prone to oil leaks. I always fit the new gasket with a smear of sealant along this edge. Reinzosil is very effective. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 14 Author Report Share Posted April 14 Head back on today having cleaned up the surfaces and checked the valves. Didn't go that well, which seems to be the theme with this task so far 🤣 One of the head nuts went as I was torquing them up. I have been reassured by Canley's that these are the correct Grade 5 nuts so I can only assume that my torque wrench is off. I had it set to just over 65 lb/ft as the manual states between 65 and 70. The washers supplied also seemed to deform a lot. A colleague at work has a very good torque wrench so I will try again with that when the new nut and washers arrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 14 Report Share Posted April 14 the torque figure will be for a dry stud if its oiled you may strip at the suggested torque its unusual for mk2 nuts /studs to give any problems . your wrench is set in lbft not Nm ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted April 14 Author Report Share Posted April 14 The studs are dry ( and new). It has a scale of lbft on one side and Nm on the other. It's quite a tricky scale to read regardless! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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