Pete Lewis Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 thats the advantage of measuring the side slip aim for zero ( but it should always be at its static ride height ) if thats the specified its the excessive side slip that rips off the rubber and the incorrect toe gives you the bunny hops and less responsive steering be that front or rear toe both very important and with less side slip you gain speed and fuel economy Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 My conundrum is when measuring rear wheel toe in which side do I tweek? I don't have a long straight edge to try and check the orientation of each rear wheel relative to the chassis etc. I suppose I could try a bit of string but that seems a bit Heath Robinson even for me! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 IainT, TRy a laser beam! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 Do test it one change at a time though Iain.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 1 minute ago, JohnD said: TRy a laser beam! Excellent idea, Amazon here I come... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 19 Report Share Posted August 19 The tricky bit is making sure that the beam is parallel to the car's midline! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 I can only use the chassis as a reference. I'll take a look tomorrow. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 19 Author Report Share Posted August 19 Or if I can get it to work what about the Trakrite? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 20 Author Report Share Posted August 20 Had a bit of spare time today and rechecked the front toe in which was parallel. I then again with my calibrated at 20C ice cream boxes and straight edges checked the rears. Oops there is 4mm toe in at ice cream box height! A rough check and it seems the offside needs to come out and to correct I assume I lengthen the tie rod? To check with some sort of accuracy the PO had quick jack points fitted and inset into the sill panel. I'll measure the across car distance from the chassis to the end of the box section of both sides and use them as datums for my string line across the rear tyres. Come what may there is too much rear toe in! Note my measurements are as per Haynes book unladen. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 20 Report Share Posted August 20 On 19/08/2024 at 18:53, Iain T said: I can only use the chassis as a reference. I'll take a look tomorrow. Iain Yes, that's your reference. I used two lengths of plastic pipe, both with small, long bolts in them. At the front threaded across in front of the engine, the bolts engage with the chassis rails. At the back, the bolts engage in small holes drilled in the rear valance. Then careful measurements to provide marks on the pipe equal distances from the centre line. Those are the references for the laser line. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 i just use a length of straight timber against the trye and sight the run line to the sills cheap and easy to see if both sides follow the line of the car , dont make hard work of all this Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 I've always hated those book measurement that give the toe, etc as a distance rather than an angle as they just asks more questions than it answers: Are you measuring at the rim, leading edge of the tyre, or...? What rim/tyre size are they based on? The 2000's came with either 13" or 14" rims but a single length toe measurement - but that 1" difference would change the toe angle. Is that measurement 'each side' or total? With the above workshop manual numbers should bothmy wheels toe out 1.6mm to 3.2mm from the centre line of the car (so toe between the 2 wheels be 3.2mm to 6.4mm) or is that the total toe (so each wheel should only toe 0.8mm to 1.6mm)? Certainly with the S/Stag alloys on my 2000 aren't as round as a modern wheel and depending exactly where I stop both the angle across the leading/trailing edges and diameter of the wheel at the rim will be slightly different, so I'll get different measurements if i roll forward a 1/4 revolution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 Perhaps because it's more difficult to DIY measure a distance rather than angle? Having said that my phone has an inclination app. You have your front wheels toe out? Surely they should be toe in or as I'm trying parallel. I agree tyre size, measuring pitch front and back of the tyre makes a mockery of a distance rather than angle. I've always thought it's a total measurement not per side. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 back to advantage of setting to a zero side slip no distance no angles just simple I want to keep me rubber please settings if you trig the toe you can see just how silly amounts of side slip over a mile actually happen and toe at the rim and toe at the tyre I totally agree this is never cover in the spec/data provided so zero slip = good tyre wear= good handling = happy bunny you dont need 4 wheel alignments or laser guided waffle to set any of out cars up . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 The felt hub seals have arrived and measure uncompressed 9mm thick so do I need to soak in oil and compress and if so to what thickness? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said: you dont need 4 wheel alignments or laser guided waffle to set any of out cars up . I agree I'm having much more fun with my home made kit and has the advantage of I can check again at any time. I've had my modern 4 wheel aligned twice at the same place over a 2 month period and the second time they said it's way out who did it previously. Err you I said so they did it foc but I've no idea if it's correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 21 Report Share Posted August 21 Check that the ID of the backing ring fits over the raised boss of the upright where the stub axle goes through mine didn’t and when fitted locked up the inner bearing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 21 Author Report Share Posted August 21 53 minutes ago, Peter Truman said: Check that the ID of the backing ring fits over the raised boss of the upright where the stub axle goes through mine didn’t and when fitted locked up the inner bearing! Thanks for the advice so the id of the seal casing is supposed to be slightly larger than the turned boss on the VL? I'll turn the seal round and try it the wrong way round metal to VL to check it slides over. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 22 Report Share Posted August 22 Not very clear but you can just make out from the WSM diagram that there should be quite a bit of clearance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 (edited) Yes I can see the two registers for the bearing and seal casing and the clearance for the felt. I also found on a previous post the answer to another query about removing the inner bearing, there's two notches to drift it out. I'll say it again this forum is superb! Housework first then strip offside corner. The first a chore the second pleasure 😊 As Arnie said "I'll be back" with more questions. Iain Edited August 22 by Iain T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 Urgent advice please! The offside seal was installed facing out, the wrong way. Hence the felt has disintegrated. The casing I removed fits the hub in fact it's a tad loose. The new one is too big. So I'm thinking the carefully removed the felt and superglued to the old casing. Then a smidgen of loctite to hopefully stop the casing from revolving in the hub. The bearings feel ok and I've repacked. The trunnion was very good. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 22 Report Share Posted August 22 My god this is a minefield and I dont think I'll even look at mine! So the seals come new too big to fit in the hubs - is this length or diameter Iain? Unless you can find something better I cant see youve got too many options so its got to be a transplant.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 I've seen the £40k+ bills from the company who rebuilt the car for the PO. This FU is just a small sample of their poor workmanship. I've had a sarnie and calmed down and will give it another go with the new seal and if not go to plan B! 😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 22 Report Share Posted August 22 How can you put it in the wrong way round as it must just have been flopping around😲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted August 22 Author Report Share Posted August 22 The acronym SNAFU sums up my car as I purchased it. It's much much better now. I suppose this means I'll have to inspect the rears! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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